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Since I get the P1637 repeatedly, does that necessarily mean I automatically will have the C1095 in there? Does that "C" code stay even after re-soldering those two power pins?
on my ‘02 XKR the C code did not come back after the 2 power pin soldering
You will ALWAYS get a C1095 DTC if the solder joints fail.
You just can't read 'C' codes with a generic 'P' code reader!!
A fellow forum member came to my house with his scanner(s). He has multiple Jags and said the better one (iCarsoft) normally reads Jag "C" codes.....but nothing in the "C" class showed up. I have a list of what he read, and some of them are totally strange to me. The P1637 still shows up after a RE-start from running after a disconnected battery makes it go away.
I am going to put up a pic of my instrument panel as soon as I can get it out of my phone and onto this site.
This is what I get now unless I disconnect the battery or do a hard reset. Only then will the CEL disappear.....but will return if I shut it off and restart it. I don't think I understand these lights. The good news is that I do not get the "Stability fail" anymore. The really bad news is that my speedo/odo do not work at all.
Last edited by oldjaglover; 10-03-2021 at 08:25 PM.
The ABS module needs to be configured to the CAN bus.(if you have a functioning and CORRECT module)
No matter how many threads you start or reply to, the car will never be repaired unless the modules communicate with each other.
That is logical for sure. I don't understand what "configuration" means in this case, nor how that is accomplished. I am still using my "original" ABS module that was in the car when I bought it in 2008. Only in the past few years have I had the annoying ABS/Stability lights and warnings. I don't think I have traction control. But I never had any of these other issues until I did the R&R with a very careful re-soldering of the two pins and two of the blade connectors in the main connector portion of the module. It was all very clean. Re-checked the connections and the continuity to the power connection at both sides.
What could possibly have happened to my module to make it unrecognizable or to not function after this straightforward repair?
So, the ECM is still not recognizing the ABS module? I assume this "configuration" requires a special electronic tool. I read that the Autoenginuity(?) scanner will not only read the "C" codes, but will do the "configuration". Do you affirm that?
I removed the cover of the ECM, and am taking pics with the objective of possibly taking it out and having it carefully checked for any problems. Is this even necessary at this point.....or does the "configuration" need to be tried long before any R&R of the ECM?
... I never had any of these other issues until I did the R&R with a very careful re-soldering of the two pins and two of the blade connectors in the main connector portion of the module. It was all very clean. Re-checked the connections and the continuity to the power connection at both sides.
What could possibly have happened to my module to make it unrecognizable or to not function after this straightforward repair?
I'm afraid the stock response has to be "If something goes wrong after work has been done, then first revisit the work done"
Originally Posted by oldjaglover
I removed the cover of the ECM, and am taking pics with the objective of possibly taking it out and having it carefully checked for any problems. Is this even necessary at this point.....or does the "configuration" need to be tried long before any R&R of the ECM?
I'd leave the ECM as-is for now else you risk introducing other variables. There is something definitely adrift with the ABS module as it's not reporting wheel speeds (no speedo) from the ABS sensors (or they're not 'getting through').
I'm finding it difficult to follow where you're at with the issue spread across three threads. Appreciate that some are responses to questions posed by others, but please can you try to keep everything in one place (here seems the most appropriate at the moment). It doesn't take much to confuse me these days
You either have a 5 pipe (6 valve) module or a 6 pipe (9 valve module)
The 5 pipe requires a JLM 20129
The 6 pipe requires a JLM 20130
I have no idea what you have and I have no idea what diagnostic devices other than WDS/IDS will configure the module to the CAN bus.
Years ago a person on this or another forum attempted to repair a JLM 20130 (With Traction Control) and damaged the circuit board with the blade used to cut open the case.
The forum member was angry that I did not tell him to not cut too deep and the module was unusable. He cut through the steel stand-off spacers and the circuit board.
The JLM 20130 is harder to find than the JLM 20129 so it is likely more expensive for a good-used part.
Just a thought...
Have you checked the relevant module fuses?
F4 (5A), F16 and F18 (both 30A) in the Engine Compartment fusebox. They may have yellow 'safety related' covers on them:
The fusebox is here - location 'A' - in case you don't have the 'Vehicle Care' booklet:
I pulled those fuses when I did the R&R and re-soldering of the module and power pins. My reason was to not wipe the miles I had driven the car before it went for emissions testing. Obviously, that was a wasted effort. Fuses were double checked and installed....then checked again.
My total inst. light show has decreased since the "no stability control" message does not come on anymore. But that doesn't help my NO speedo/ODO issue. So, if those work off the ABS module (or is it the whole control with the distribution block and pump?),then it seems the ABS is still malfunctioning.
I apologize for spreading my questions and answers throughout the relevent forum discussions on this ABS problem, but it takes a LOT of cruising and reading threads of ALL years past to find answers. I need to solve this incredibly persistent problem. I have done all other maintenance and R&R on this Jag since I have owned it, but electrical issues stump me when PITA fixes don't solve the problem. When I see so many members who have resolved this issue with a one-time R&R and re-soldering of the power pins, it drives me nuts. But I also see a lot of others who have the same long-running issues I am encountering. My wife says I should just take it to the shop and pay the piper. She's probably right, but I want to know what the problem is (even if I cannot fix it) before handing over my car and a pile of cash.
Any comments on that brake light? I thought that was the light that showed my E-brake was still on, but apparently not. It's over on the bottom of the right cluster with the fuel and temp. Heck, I don't even remember what the orange and red lights in the center "speedometer" cluster mean.
You either have a 5 pipe (6 valve) module or a 6 pipe (9 valve module)
The 5 pipe requires a JLM 20129
The 6 pipe requires a JLM 20130
I have no idea what you have and I have no idea what diagnostic devices other than WDS/IDS will configure the module to the CAN bus.
Years ago a person on this or another forum attempted to repair a JLM 20130 (With Traction Control) and damaged the circuit board with the blade used to cut open the case.
The forum member was angry that I did not tell him to not cut too deep and the module was unusable. He cut through the steel stand-off spacers and the circuit board.
The JLM 20130 is harder to find than the JLM 20129 so it is likely more expensive for a good-used part.
It's a 5 pipe. I assume that means I do not have traction control(?). My last 5 of my VIN is 14046. I really hate to pull the module out again and open it up, but if there's a real possibility of some damage while doing the re-solder or opening the case I may bite the bullet....or pay someone else. I think the cuts and separation were pretty clean, and due to the retainer clips I wedged the last part to get it open and release those clips. Picture coming.
Two large pics of my opened module should reveal any damage. They are post #20 and post #29 on my beginning thread "Removing the ABS module hell". I will post a couple of new ones with the intent to view any areas for possible damage.
Last edited by oldjaglover; 10-04-2021 at 06:40 PM.
So glad I BAILED on this thread, it began as question for a 2003 XK8 and morphed into the early models and a "solder the pins" & "Good Scanner" thread. Early models have a completely different ABS system. Some of the hardware appears similar. Beginning with the 2003 4.2L, 6 Spd ZF, the ABS/DSC system was re-configured and uses more inputs to operate the stability controls. None to very little of the early system is similar but the wheel speed sensors and Steering Angle Sensor as best I can research. The later ABS/DSC Module is C2N3651 and costs $1775 +- a few. My 2004 LKQ DSC Module ( E-Bay) assembly appears to have corrected the module failure code since it is no longer on DTC list. Once I replace the S.A.S. sensor, I will have the module re-configured to my car and hopefully my episode is solved. Will update when done in a new thread.
I understand your frustration:- what seems like a straightforward fix turns into an epic. For me, it was simply the pin soldering. I was getting the ABS issue intermittently, and a wiggle of the pump connector would make it go away for a while so I was lazy and just did that... until it became permanent.
The e-brake light doubles as a low brake fluid level indicator.
I understand your frustration:- what seems like a straightforward fix turns into an epic. For me, it was simply the pin soldering. I was getting the ABS issue intermittently, and a wiggle of the pump connector would make it go away for a while so I was lazy and just did that... until it became permanent.
The e-brake light doubles as a low brake fluid level indicator.
If these XK8s weren't the best looking cars on the road I'd just quit and take the loss.
BUT....the brake fluid? OK, I lost a few drops when I disconnected two of the lines to get the module out. No leaks, and I filled the reservoir a little just to be sure. I Don't think it could be more full without contacting the top. Hmmmmmm......maybe a tiny bit of air in the lines? I did have the system flushed and refilled a couple of years ago (maybe 3-400 miles tops). I'll check it again and stop pulling on my e-brake handle.
So glad I BAILED on this thread, it began as question for a 2003 XK8 and morphed into the early models and a "solder the pins" & "Good Scanner" thread. Early models have a completely different ABS system. Some of the hardware appears similar. Beginning with the 2003 4.2L, 6 Spd ZF, the ABS/DSC system was re-configured and uses more inputs to operate the stability controls. None to very little of the early system is similar but the wheel speed sensors and Steering Angle Sensor as best I can research. The later ABS/DSC Module is C2N3651 and costs $1775 +- a few. My 2004 LKQ DSC Module ( E-Bay) assembly appears to have corrected the module failure code since it is no longer on DTC list. Once I replace the S.A.S. sensor, I will have the module re-configured to my car and hopefully my episode is solved. Will update when done in a new thread.
Good to know. If I ever find my perfect 2003-4 XKR I'll need to review your thread. Thanks. Oh.....hope your issue is resolved for good.
BTW: Not sure if anyone noticed but the P1798 (CAN/TCM) and P1799 (CAN/TCM/ABS module) codes were on Bobroy's scanner, too. It looks like more evidence of a communication failure between the ABS and the ECM.
Now I'm wondering if I left some wiring off or unplugged something and forgot it. I thought all the wiring through the CAN was in that multi-pin connector at the ABS module. ???
The BRAKE LIGHT and the Incorrect Part Fitted are linked.
When I installed a replacement module in mt 2000MY XKR, the display indicated Incorrect Part Fitted AND the red BRAKE LIGHT.
BOTH faults disappeared after a module configuration.
Amazing. No wonder most people are scared of Jaguars.
I have an appointment with the local Jag shop, but not until next Tuesday. I wish I could get a code reading before then. Thinking about ordering an "Autoenginuity" scanner, but I normally don't need something that sophisticated. Although....I could save about $60 every time I need to get this (or any seldom driven car) smogged if it tells me the "system" is not ready for it. Their new price is $279. I think that's one that you read via a laptop, and I'm not sure I want t have to learn another electronic system/tool that would use maybe.....maybe....once or twice a year. UNLESS I became adept at it and could do readings for $25 for other befuddled Jag and over electrified car owners. Yeah, right.
You need a JLM20129. (LJA2210BH written in the case)
One year production only so they are harder to find than all the others.
Might only need to be configured?
I can only hope. I have been searching the internet for a meaning of the U1260 and U1261 codes, but I keep getting "circled back" to "P" codes. Apparently, that P20EE code means my emissions system was NOT ready for a successful test and pass. That's why I have to get this fixed and put about 200 miles (with a WORKING SPEEDO/ODO) on it. UGH!
10-02-2021, 10:24 PM
