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I believe 75w-90 is the viscosity called for. If your car sees heavy or extremely duty then a 75w-140 is perfectly fine, if not better / more appropriate. I use the Mobil 1 75w-140 in my 2002 XKR. I consider daily driving a 20+ year old car to be “extreme” usage. Not to mention several cross country trips yearly.
whatever rear end lube you choose, get the full synthetic version. That will give you the best wear protection, just like synthetic oil does for the engine.
The only downside to the 75w-140 is the cost. It’s more costly than the 75w-90. The extra protection is worth a few more dollars to me. My car is approaching 190,000 miles, 75,000 under my care. No rear end issues yet.
PS: the actual Jaguar spec calls for “Shell Spirax Super TS90”. Reading thru the old forum postings, I don’t think that is available except in 55 gal drums . Most often used is a good quality 75w-90 replacement.
Cut the boot floor ..YOU MUST USE A WOBBLE END . When you put the plug back get underneath and make sure its square in the threads before you tighten it or you strip the aluminium threads.
It’s my understanding that the coupe diff access is much different (easier) than the convertible’s is. With my 2002 coupe it was a tight squeeze to get a tool into the plug, but do-able. No additional disassembling required for the plug access.
let us know which type you have, and the responses can be more useful.
Here is an alternative method for replacing the differential oil in the XK8 (100).
Thanks to all who have contributed to the maintenance practices of the XK8 (100). This one in particular providing several methods and techniques for this procedure without which this article would not be possible.
Once locating the differential you’ll find the hidden differential servicing plug. The single plug has a dual-purpose. To accommodate draining and filling oil. To replace the differential fluid, first remove both stabilizer sway bar end links and move the bar out of the way. Photo 1; Sway Bar disconnected. There is a bolt holding an upper sway bar you can remove the nut then push the bolt to the left to get a little more room to swing the rachet. Photo 2; Upper bolt pushed to the left. Photo 1; Sway Bar disconnected. Photo 2; Upper bolt pushed to the left. Photo 3; 1/2" X 3/4" Drive Socket Cap. Photo 4; Drive Socket Inserted with ¾” ratchet. Photo 5; Plug and socket resting Photo 6; Shop Vac Pumping Fluid. Photo 7; Shop Vac Pumping Fluid.
You’ll need a ½” X ¾” Square Drive Socket Cap. It comes as a 3 Piece set for about $4.00. Photo 3; Drive Socket Cap.Getting the ½” end into the differential plug is challenging. I used a magnet, as others have, to hold the drive socket while pushing the ½” end of the drive socket into the plug. Once in place the ball detent will hold it firmly in place. Photo 4; Drive Socket Inserted.
Once the drive socket is in place you can fit the rachet wrench onto the 3/4” end of the drive socket. It’s a bit tricky but very do able. I used another tool to get leverage on the ¾” rachet to loosen the plug. When finally out, the plug and socket should fall easily resting on the sway bars between the trunk and suspension. Photo 5; Plug and socket resting. Just leave it there!
I found a fool-proof method of pumping out the old fluid thanks to YouTube. I had to buy ¼” ID X 3/8” OD plastic hose about $6.00. Sacrifice an empty soda/pop bottle and find a suitable receptor bottle to put in my shop vac. Visit Using Your Shop Vac (no wrenches !) by Chris Notap, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk46vCOGTFI&t=248sPhoto 6 & 7; Shop Vac Pumping Fluid.
The remaining process is straight forward. Using an inexpensive pump for $7.00 that screws into the cap of the gear oil. Pump until it runs over the edge of the hole. Mine took all of two quarts and a little more to run over the edge.
The plug easily screws back in. Yes, you can do it. Just take your time and with your fingers from both sides of the socket and plug it will screw in very easily. Get the plug in far as you can and enough to fit the rachet, then torque it down. Connect both stabilizer sway bar end links and replace the nut on the upper bolt that was slid out of the way. Photo 2; Upper bolt pushed to the left. Dispose/recycle the old oil. Clean up your tools and floor. Drive and enjoy!
Definitely go the 2" hole in the trunk route. Crowd hole high near upper edge.
So glad I did this as my fill plug took a lot of grunt on an 18" breaker bar to loosen. No way I could see fiddling with cobbled up tools underneath would have been successful.
Nice 2" black grommet after painting hole edge makes it look factory.
Cheers
06-25-2023, 02:20 PM
