I really don't know. That is why I added "if so equipped".
Generally speaking, regardless of vehicle, I try to look for vents on differentials, transfer cases, and such.
My 2002 XKR does indeed have a vent accessible from below.

 

I have a 3/8 to 1/2 convertor but I'm not sure the 3/8 drive will be man enough. I'll try to clean the breather, from a Range Rover I know they help.

Mike

 

Overall thanks guys for the guidance and I will report back. I'm waiting to see what Comma say about their oil and if it's suitable.

 

If you don't mind my asking, what are the regrets?

 

Jay
Here is a link from May 2020 of my thinking.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2227731

 

Cool. Thanks.
So I just read thru the thread. And the reasoning is that it's a "hack" job? Is that all?

Listen, it'll be clear that I am one who hacked my car, but I'm wondering why and how it qualifies as a hack,,, in the extreme sense of the word?

From the outset, just to include the idea, that the tank is not exactly separate from the cabin by a firewall, as there is a row of holes that, in the event of a fire in the tank or in the boot, would immediately allow whatever gases and flames resulting from a fire to engulf the cabin space. Still, is the idea that if there WAS a fire one could, if need be, stay in the car during the fire?

My hole is closed up with two layers (not for fire safety at all) of HD aluminum duct tape, to close it and keep it closed, under the shelf mat, that would hold (for a little bit) in the even of a fire - I think? Anywho

I'm sitting in my 928 as we "speak", and in the cabin space is an access to the gas tank fuel sender with a plastic threaded cover rubber seal, similar to the pump cover on the XKs. I could fit my arm into the hole. I could have it off in 10min. I've worked on STypes where under the passenger rear seat(s) are access holes to the pump, 2 in fact, if I remember right. Chevy Suburbans (or some such SUV) same set up and, three different mini vans. Mercedes SUVs. All allowing access to the pump and gas tank via the passenger cabin...and an accessable port.

The XKs set up is horrible.

3 months ago, to change clutch master cylinder in my 928. I cut a hole in the LH wheel well rather than deal with the dread of blindly stringing (and bleeding) the clutch master and it's feed and exit lines into a space that is not fit for human hands. An easy, sealable access hole. I can access the CM in the amount of time it takes to remove the LH front tire today - well almost... That, as opposed to a painful and well documented 3, 4, 5 hour wrestling match.

Yeah, I'm still confused as to why anyone would advise against making what could be simple access to the pump a looooong, painful, and potentially dangerous job - rather than a solution that makes the same job a 10 or 15min affair that could be done on the side of the road... The "hack" idea alone doesn't provide enough,,,, reason. I'm hoping for a reason.

I thought there would be reasoning from an engineering/structural stand point, or something. Same for the reasoning behind not making another (there are lots already) 1 1/2 inch hole in the trunk wall to give instant access to the differential fill spout. Mind "bottling" as the dude from Vise Grip Garage says - I love that Dude, lol

Anyways, help me out here.

 

To access my fuel pump I cut the rear shelf down the middle and lifted it out ..the material was buggered so I painted it while I find some suitable cloth. Then I cut the metal parcel shelf and peeled it back like a sardine tin . Easy access I can now do it at the side of the road . Just hope its not full of petrol !!
I also have a hole to access the diff filler plug in the trunk.....

Jag should have made these jobs easy when they built the car . Oh sorry Ford

 

he gave his reason, it’s just not what you would
do. I’m not crazy about cutting holes in the car either. Just different ideas about doing a non-reversible repair. I’ve done plenty of hacks, but I like to keep them reversible. I like having a car that shows only some wear. Not a concours snob or judging others who have different standards, and hoping for the same latitude.

to be fair to Ford, and every other manufacturer in existence, no manufacturer cares (anymore) how hard it is to work on these cars. Current Jaguars and AM’s are no picnic. The same goes for any other manufacturer, be it European, Asian, or North American. Once the product leaves the factory, they just don’t care.

Z

 

This is somewhat my context of the definition of "hack":
Hack

See definitions in: Jaguar vehicle

1. Slang. to handle or cope with a situation or problem adequately and expeditiously at the detriment of originality


Note: I am not an anti hacker. I have an "antique" 2004 Maytag drying cabinet that I have had on life support for years (220 volt converted to 110volt operation only, and the very faulty membrane control matrix converted to discereet pushbutton switches. there will be tears shed the day I have to take it to the dump!

I find 3, 4, or 5 hour wrestling matches to now be a challenge. I recall the shameful language that accompanied such matches back in the day when I owned my 79 Jeep Wagoneer. I must admit that those matches built some patience, character, and a more gentilemanly vocabulary which has been a blessing while working on my Jag.

 

Does my 2000 XKR have the same diff as the XK8, with the same plug placement? I know I have a different transmission, so I don't want to assume that my differential is the same. I'd hate to drill a hole and find out afterward that the plug is somewhere else.

 

Lol,,, but what if "originality" IS the detriment?
That's the whole point. If the hack is an improvement?

 

Like I said, I am not anti hack. I think each owner is entitled to make their own judgment call on an individual basis.
Although that big fuel pump hole has robbed me of the satisfaction of doing a proper FP replacement, some of my updates/improvements/"hacks" that I do choose to live with are:

• From my sig....LSI pressure release valve (my choice vs inline resistor), TH latch and hose upgrade, stealth antenna switch, K40 and Sirius pro install by PO, Jagwrangler top remote and RealGauge (thanks Steve...no excuses necessary)
• Part load breather tube hack good till the SC has to come off.
• (2) 1/8" diameter holes under bonnet (my business )
• Overhead console mtg hack till I replace mtg brkt (thanks Johnken for pt # /source)
• Double stick tape to mount 3rd brake light cover ( tabs broke PO, hope it is a long time before I have to unfasten)
• Replaced inner right backup sensor with an "outer" used sensor (your results may well vary due to some lack of a bumper access hole and also installer's dexterity)

 

I'm in the same camp. If it’s a reversible jack I’m all in, otherwise I’m keeping the car in a semblance of the “as delivered” condition.

One of my knock sensors is in a “hack job” position, and has been for the last 20,000 + miles. The sky may be falling on me, but it’s taking it’s time. When no I finally get around to taking S/C off I’ll put the knock sensor in it’s proper place. And the hack will Rest In Peace. Totally reversed.

Z

 

I wanted to try and avoid drilling holes in the boot.

I used these tools to get the filler plug out.



It wasn’t a wobble bar but went into the plug at an angle and got it out. Took about 30 minutes including trying to think of a better way.

Getting the oil out was a swine. I have a pump like this


Which wasn’t much use as it’s designed to go down a dipstick tube and the one I have has a pretty whippy end on it that didn’t want to get to the bottom of the diff. If I had had a simple tube like in the picture it would probably have worked OK. So I used a 500 ml syringe type thing which was tedious but fine.

Filling was fine using the syringe.

Getting the plug back is all about lining it up. You can see it OK underneath (on your back) but I couldn’t touch the plug. How the hell the hole in the boot guys manage I have no idea.

So I used this arrangement



A ⅜ drive wobble bar onto a ⅜ to ˝ convertor. But the wobble bar kept on pushing on and losing its wobble so I put that small bit of plastic in the female receiver on the convertor.



Then I used a screwdriver to line it up and initially a finger spinner to start the thread as I thought that might give more feedback. Maybe it did, maybe it didn’t.



Finished off with both the ⅜ ratchet via wobble and the crooked ˝ drive as before.

I’m not sure I needed to change the oil. I think it had been done previously as it came out cloudy golden not the black others describe.

I’m off to the village garage for the gearbox oil on Tuesday, I wonder if that’s been done as well.

Anyway a boring writeup and no holes in the boot.

 

Well done....

 

Thanks. I made a meal of it - as I usually do. It's the silly things that bite me in the backside.

 

Is your car a coupe or convertible ?

Z

 

Just to answer the HOW, for the hole in the trunk shelf folks,,, and re-inserting the plug.

Place the plug on the end of the extension (maybe use a short stretch of half a slice of duct tape), slide it into the hole and turn it in. That's about all there was to it. You can see everything so it's pretty straight forward. The duct tape doesn't stop the wobble, which is good, but it also keeps the plug on the extension. Tape also still allows for the "feel"...

Unlike the dude in the video (thanks to him) I was sure a 1 1/2 inch hole cutter, with a little alignment drill bit built in, would allow me enough room to deal with the plug. Also, seeing what troubles he had, I went up a bit higher and to where the hole cutter would JUST miss the 90⁰ turn at the top O the shelf. Also, once I got the 1/2 extension into the plug and got it turning, I used a bit of body filler (pretty sticky stuff) at the tip and sides of the wobbly extension to HOLD the plug once out. Didn't want it falling into the abyss and I didn't want to have to TOUCH a jack for this.

After, I used a good amount of por15 and brush, slathered it up, and placed the body plug. I also think I used a small amount of body filler (caulking) around the edge of the plug before placing with that HIGH AMP fuse panel in mind.

Took 30 40 min, I think.

 

Coupe and not R.

 

You did better than me then, maybe I should have just drilled a hole.

I had the advantage that I could ensure the plug was square by poking it with a screwdriver. The guy in the video did express concern about cross threading.