Hello my name is Michelle, I’ve been reading up on all of your posts to do a hard reboot.
I have a 2001 XK8 drop top that I took into a shop to find out why I had to take my positive cable off the battery then replace it when I wanted to drive or my battery would go dead.
They removed the radio stating that it was the cause of the battery draining. However, when I went to speak to the mechanic I noticed the red cable was off of the battery so I put it back on to make sure this was the case.
Since the radio was no longer hooked up, the battery should have stayed charged but when I arrived the next morning to pick up my car the battery was dead, proving the radio is not the source of the battery drain.
To add insult to injury now my car won’t start and they have no idea how to fix it nor do I want them to. To me it’s common sense that the mechanic did something wrong by not knowing enough about this type of vehicle. Especially since my car was running just fine when I brought it into them. Can you tell me if I should start with a hard reboot to clear whatever this so called professional did to it?
Does the radio have to be working to enter a code or can I just bypass entering a code?
I don’t care if the radio works at this point.
I’m on my own to get this started again and your direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hi Michelle - welcome to the forum. A few things for you:

how old is the battery?? there should be a date code stamped on it - usually month/year. Anything older than 5 years, I would seriously consider replacing.

When you insert the key in the ignition - it operates a little door. If that door does not return to the 3/4 closed position when you remove the key - this could be the source of your battery drain. Either put some powdered graphite on the key and insert or others have put a little WD-40 on the key and insert into the ignition to lubricate that door

As this is your first post, please stop by our new member section and post an intro. In return, you will receive a warm welcome and useful tips to navigate the forum

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

 

That's all a little confusing. Normally, when we want to disconnect the battery, we do so with the ground cable, but that shouldn't matter. A hard reset is performed by removing the neg.( ground) cable from the battery and touching it to the positive for a few seconds.

It appears that the radio was not causing the short that drained the battery, if it's actually disconnected. When you say the car will not start, do you mean the engine turns over but does not fire, or nothing happens when you move the key to the start position? If the battery does not have enough voltage, the engine will turn over, but the ignition will not be enabled. Is the battery fully charged, reading over 12.5 V on a meter, not the dash gauge?

I'm not sure what you mean by a code. The radio on US cars does not require a code.

It is important to have a code reader/ scanner that plugs into the OBDII port to read engine codes. You can buy a ELM 327 cable on ebay or Amazon that will connect to your cell phone and download an app to use, or buy a code reader.

 

What door?

 

That information it’s very helpful, my battery is new and I will follow your directions on that to see what’ happens.
My main concern at this time is to get my car running and I’d like to know if a hard reset or reboot is where I start?
The car cranks but it won’t turn over and I believe it’s due to incorrect codes this guy tried to enter into my car.

 

Michelle,

A few things. Just so you know, "turn over " usually means the engine is being engaged and rotated by the starter, not that it is running. No big deal, just want to synch up with you.

When you said you connected the red cable, did you have a chance to tighten it securely with a wrench? If you couldn't get the starter to turn the engine over I'd ask if the connection points were shiny and free of corrosion.

Ok back to no start. Battery turns engine over,no ignition. You need fuel, air and spark for ignition. Let's make sure that you are getting fuel to the engine. As I recall, you have a Schrader valve (looks like the valve you put air in your tires with, but all metal) on the fuel rail.

When you turn ignition on, fuel pump pumps gasoline through the fuel filter into the fuel rail at the engine. The car's computer will direct the fuel injectors to pulse fuel into the cylinders at the right time. So each time you try to start her, the fuel rail is pressurized. How can you tell?

1) sit in car, turn key to ignition. Can you hear the whirr of the fuel pump? Its located just under the shelf your convertible roof folds into.

Cant hear it?
2) find the Schrader valve after pressurized. It will squirt gas .

No fuel pressure?

1) check the fuel cut off switch (cuts off fuel in a collision) inside the fuse box facing the drivers door in the dashboard (iow open drivers door).

2) bad fuel pump.

Note: IMO never spray either to try to start. Just not worth dealing with damage from unexpected backfire.

If I didn't have to run I'd look and direct you to the Schrader valve. Maybe someone can jump in to help her out?

I'm sure smarter folks than I will add to this and help you zero in on the issue. Btw for perspective: is the car now at your premises or are you trying to work on a vehicle at the mechanics?

It's the middle of hot summer weather so I'm not addressing bore wash. Has anyone heard of it happening in August Florida weather? If so let's describe it to her.

Let us know, John

 

Oops, to answer your direct question. I cant think of any kind of code the mechanic could e term that affects starting.

John

 

That's a reference to the little flap on the ignition switch. Sometimes they get gummy from contaminants on the key or the use of WD40 and don't close all the way. This simulates the key being in the ignition and the car does nor revert to sleep mode with its' low current draw.

 

Powdered graphite is the best lubricant for the ignition key cylinder (as well as the door key lock and trunk key lock). Better than any wet lubricant and far less likely to cause interior gumming problems as time passes....

 

Welcome to the forum Michelle. You will find a lot of good information here, but it sounds like you need some professional assistance more than you have gotten from the "mechanic" that you have had your car worked on so far. Hopefully someone here can recommend a good European experienced Mech in your area, who can at least get you up and running and find you electrical 'bug'.
From what you are writing you need to get the basics worked out so that you can move on to enjoying your car, otherwise you will just get frustrated. If you have your baby at the original mechanic's, get it out, even if you have to tow it to a better location. check with other European car owners(Jag, BMW, Mercedes, etc.). See who they use). It will be worth it in the long run. Maybe there is a Jag club in your area??

 

The terms commonly used here are turns over or cranks having the same meaning, and stars, runs or fires. I don't think there is any way they could have entered a code that will keep it from starting, but they could have blown a fuse.

You need to at least read whatever codes are stored and report them here for interpretation. Moving the car to a competent repair shop is probably your best choice, but I would avoid taking it to a dealer, as they are often not interested in working on these older cars.

 

If the battery is good and holding a charge of at least 12.5 volts plus the car should start. Even with a bad alternator the car should start. If the battery is holding a charge and the car turns over and will not start then its something else. You may have to find a better mechanic. The car always has a battery drain of about 35 milliamps to maintain all of the components. When you open a door of activate any electrical circuit the drain will increase and should return to normal in 45 minutes or less. If you constantly have a higher drain than 35 millimaps then you have a electrical problem. A mechanic or you will have to test each circuit to find the parasidic drain. In my case it was a relay. Guessing it was the radio and pulling it out gives the impression your mechanic is not very competant.

Good luck.

 

Follow up on my bore wash comment. Accidentally clicked on Michelle- shes in Michigan not FL. Anyone know, is it cold enough up there for bore wash?

That would explain the no start.

 

The engine turns over but will not fire, there is no spark. I do have a new battery with 900 CCA in her.
I know noting about cars but I did check every fuse, however without the car started that’s not reliable is it?
I believe the computer is no longer directing the car’s components on what to do because they messed something up!
Due to their incompetence I’m on my own and I’d like to know if a hard reboot/reset may correct this to get my car started?

 

Can you tell me that when doing a hard reset if the car key should be turned on or not to give my car factory setting again?
Your knowledge is greatly appreciated gentlemen.

 

No, ignition is off during hard reset.

How do you know there's no spark?

Do your sun visor mirror lights work? There have been instances of no start when that fuse blew.

As far as checking fuses, doesn't matter at all that car isn't running.

Have you listened for the fuel pump yet?
J

 

You are really in a tight spot. Is the car still at the mechanic that screwed it up? If so perhaps you can find a good machanic to tow the car to their shop. How to find a good machanic is a good question. Reading reviews on the internet may help. The jaguar is not that complex of a car and any good mechanic should be able to get it running. Especially any indendent shop that works on imported cars. If there is a Jaguar dealer they could get it running for sure. Of course that is the expensive solution.

 

David, I think that's 1 of several questions Michelle has not answered. Gets frustrating but I wish her the best.

Michelle if you've answered our questions and I missed it please excuse me.

John

 

I always look at the dealer as a last option as they are usually the most expensive. If possible, check with other owner/drivers of similar cars to see who they use in your area. Most car owners are happy to help fellow enthusiasts with a good mech.

 

Here is a link to independent shops in the Destin area. You could try talking to a couple of them or look for reviews/ratings on the web pages.

Jaguar Repair Shops in Destin, FL Independent Jaguar Service in Destin, FL JagShops