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No apologies needed! From what I can tell from the '98 wiring diagram I have, the LGB wire (green w/black stripe) on both connectors is actually the same wire coming out of the white connector (pin 14 of IC2) and going into the gray one (pin 7 of RH1). I cut from the white connector same as pictured. If the same isn't true for your '03 you could reconnect and try the other but you should be fine with the white connector which is easier to access. For fun you could unplug both and put a continuity tester to test.
The essential question I faced was to either follow the numerous elegant, easy, and extremely inexpensive solutions to the antenna issue cleverly outlined in this and other threads, or to figure out how, at much greater expense, to have a wireless remote. I chose the latter kludge of wires and RF over the previously outlined grace and style.
So, I acquired this 12 V single button remote wireless relay from amazon which is rated to more than the current required, a fuse dohicky to elevate the wires out of the fuse box, and another fuse dohicky to put the fuse back into the system
Roughly 10x the cost of a nice panel switch. Since I have a bunch of little panel switches, and some enormous ones, that would have been 'free', so actually infinityx the cost, but no matter.
Below are pictures of wiring, installed in fuse box (I did have to bend the top blades of the fuse dohicky over to close the fuse box).
Remote switch 'mounted' to console, priceless... ...or about $50.
System overview, note yellow dohicky goes into the fuse box with the Pin 1/4 towards the front of the car. Connections generally crimped.
Installed before I bent the blades over to close the fuse box top.
Remote sitting in console with the iphone charger I never use and the cassette tapes I occasionally use before switching back to the CD player.
I was reviewing this thread when planning to install an switch to keep the antenna from rising. The instructions say to tap into the green/black wire from the white connector. A similar How To Video by RevSam says to tap the green/white wire from the gray connector. Will either one work or is it model year dependent. My XK8 is a 1998.
CRbass, nice remote solution. I might suggest an alternative for those that approach this, using a fuse tap. It should reduce your costs to under $25. It has a position for the original fuse, as well as a position for a fuse for the new circuit. This used in conjunction with your relay should do the trick. Don't use the fuse slot for the original fuse- leave it blank. Put a fuse in for the tap side, running to the relay. Just feed your return from the relay into the "antenna" side of the unused fuse slot using a male flat crimped connector. You could even use this in another fuse slot location if is more convenient (maybe an end fuse?), using two fuses in the tap ( one for the original fuse, one to run to the relay), but still running the output of the relay back to the original fuse slot of the antenna fuse.
CRbass, nice remote solution. I might suggest an alternative for those that approach this, using a fuse tap. It should reduce your costs to under $25. It has a position for the original fuse, as well as a position for a fuse for the new circuit. This used in conjunction with your relay should do the trick. Don't use the fuse slot for the original fuse- leave it blank. Put a fuse in for the tap side, running to the relay. Just feed your return from the relay into the "antenna" side of the unused fuse slot using a male flat crimped connector. You could even use this in another fuse slot location if is more convenient (maybe an end fuse?), using two fuses in the tap ( one for the original fuse, one to run to the relay), but still running the output of the relay back to the original fuse slot of the antenna fuse.
Indeed, nice suggestion. Also a good approach for a tighter location. Liked the fuse replacement because I can remove it in 60 seconds and use it to troubleshoot other things.
Also, considered the fuse tap, but ruled it out by the usual selection process around here, it was cheaper.
Previous owner solved this problem for me by snapping off the antenna at the base. I got a powered antenna from AutoZone and used 3M take to stick it to the bottom of the rear window. At Home Depot, they have a 1/4" metal plug. It's in the hardware aisle in the drawers full of weird/Random parts. 1/4" is just the right size for to plug the hole left by a removed antenna. Antenna plug, installed. $1.25. 1000% better looking than waterleaking into the trunk!
I made the fatal mistake of trying to listen to a favorite song as I entered a car wash. Not a "spray" wash, a real one with flappers. Of course, my antenna suffered a fatal interruption and termination. I decided to try something that so many new cars have....the "shorty" antenna. They are available everywhere, so I got one of respectable quality, about 7-8" long, and simply slid it down into the old altenna's largest section opening. It worked! It could go through any car wash! It looked COOL!
Wellllllllll.............almost. The reception was mediocre at best. Weak stations were almost impossible to tune in and save. Of course, that's another flaw in the Jaguar tuners....the inability to CHOOSE a frequency. Another story for later. Anyway, I finally gave up on the really COOL "stubby", and went back to the extendible MAST. UGH! But...my reception got better immediately.
The real lesson is: No matter what method you use to pull that antenna down, DON'T FORGET when you run through a wash or the thick brush while off road.
Ugh. I can't find it on their web site. It was one of the kinds that is powered (amplified?) and is designed to stick on the inside of a window. I used additional 3M tape to secure it. I ran the Power Cable and the signal cable down through a firewall-like hole in the rear of the passenger side into the trunk. I hooked the power up to the power cord to the antenna motor (don't need THAT any more!) and made some crazy splice with adapters into the antenna wire TO the original radio. I think I used a coaxial cable splitter and stripped the antenna wire to make it work. Pretty sure I just used electrical tape to prove the concept, but 5 months later, it still works. Signal is about as good as a factory radio in Northern VA, PLUS, I can use my Bluetooth to radio adapter and not have to make any upgrades to the factory system to use Bluetooth.
06-27-2018 | 07:27 AM
