I've just fixed the passenger door microswitch.
A few observations
The Rev Sam (hope he's getting on OK)says in his video on removing the lock that it took him half an hour the first time to get it out.
The problem is the window must be fully up. If you've lowered it a bit before disconnecting the battery you will not get the lock out.
Before removing the microswitch make a witness mark (Tippex again) because, as I found to my cost, it can be re-assembled 180° out and works on test except the car thinks the door's open when it's closed.
The contacts should be OPEN when the door is closed.
Don't replace the microswitch 'til you've looked inside it.
Use the Tippex to mark the two halves and prize open the four tiny locking lugs.
There's a design fault-a tiny bit of bent metal sticks up to hold a coil spring.
It isn't strong enough and fatigues off.
Solder it back filling the angle with solder which makes a much stronger job.
Reassembly is easier if you thread the spring through the moving contact first and retain it with a tiny drop of glue.
The moving contact sits in a fine groove - you'll need good eyesight or a lens to locate it properly.
Check on the bench with a multimeter across the relevant connector pins (follow the wire!) that operation is correct.
It should open just before you hear the lock mechanism click shut.
I'm not being tight fisted, I can't easily get a replacement switch here and also, since it seems to be an identical mechanism, it will suffer from the same fault.
Thanks to DrDSP for his help with this

 

hello steve.
got my switches from farnell...£4 each ..first side took 45 mins..drivers side 30 mins work time about 30 mins to fit switch to lock and test with meter..refiting the window guide was the hard bit..these switches fail because of water damage..

 

After reading several earlier posts on this problem and Steve's detailed repair procedure, I had the impression this was more of an issue to convertible owners. You've scuttled that complacent notion.

Was it complete replacement microswitches you sourced from farnell.co.uk?

Graham

 

Where's the link to this 'detailed repair procedure'? has it got pictures? Just had a call from a chap with a 2005 XKR with this issue....

 

the switches i replaced were the ones that tell the window to go down half an inch when opening the door the go back up when door is closed.they also effect the alarm and drivers or pass door open warning also interior light .. there is post with all the info and pictures..if anyone needs it i can find it.there are a few switches in the drivers door lock but these dont fail often.one word off warning..sam and others have said this..you MUST disconect the battery in you like having hands

 

'Hawkeye' steveinfrance described how to repair it in this thread starter and Reverend Sam has a video on removal / replacement:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV1hy..._order&list=UL

Graham

 

Presumably this rather vicious 'X' piece on the lift mechanism can close quite quickly?



Thanks for the warning.

Graham

 

yes ive seen these..sams was good for removing the door lock .but i found you dont need to remove the interior door lever mech ..just thread it out..this is a very easy and cheap job to do..or you can buy a loch mech from jag for 400 hard earned pounds

 

If it helps on convertibles the window is lowered a few cms and stays down when the door is opened.
This is done by two microswitches both in the lock.
One senses when the door handle is pulled and that lowers the window.
The other (by the lock barrel, green/black wires) has a lever bearing on the lock barrel which is an eccentric. When the lock rotates about the door lock pin this switch transitions from open to closed and tells the computer to keep the window down.
When the door closes the switch opens and the computer snugs the window up inside the hood seals.
As mentioned above the same switch activates the 'Door Open' alarm and turns on the courtesy lights.
By all means replace it but (purely from reading posts on this forum) it seems odd that it should be the only one to fail from 'water damage'. It is sealed and seems pretty well protected. Mine was covered in silicone grease.
It does, however, have a design flaw. The spring post is formed by stamping and has a sharp bend.
The switch is an odd design where the switching action is produced by the lever actuated button bearing directly on the spring, forcing it off-centre and toggling the contacts.
The puts high bending forces onto the spring post which eventually falls off.
This is not the way normal microswitches work.
If replacements use the same internal design they will fail too (although after many cycles).
If anyone has a failed standard switch they've replaced could they prise it apart for a post-mortem?
What you're looking for is a tiny spring and contact loose in the assembly.

 

its easy to see why it fails because it is on the door face and is exposed to the eliments when the door is open..also water fron rain or car cleaning can easily enter the switch..you can open the door and see the switch..the other switches are deep in the lock therefor are less likley to fail

 

You may be right - I don't know. I'd like to see some post mortem results.
All these switches are 'waterproof' to IP67 so will stand everything but permanent immersion.

 

The problem I had was that i didnt want to take it apart untill i had the bits..the passenger door went first.the switch was green in parts beacause of water damage..when i tried to look inside it fell apart..I was glad i ordered another spare switch because the drivers side went about a month later so had the bits..I think they are poor quilty for the job they have to do but my car is nearly 10 years old so cant complain

 

Well, that's certainly water damage!!!
Anyone else looked inside the switch?

 

I had the door latch mechanism removed and replaced the switch and I found that the switches get a little out of adjustment but most important before you remove the mechanism use a little WD40 to lubricate it. After my working on it the lubrication was what it really needed.

Door latch repair JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Micro switches D2SW-3L3MS Omron Electronics Basic / Snap Action / Limit Switches

Note please verify your switch before ordering. I hope this helps.

 

My 2000 XKR coupe's alarm went off Sunday for no apparent reason. Then Monday after shutting the pass. door 5 times trying to get the door ajar alert to go off I made the connection. Is the part number you mention the micro-switch that I need to replace? Are you saying some WD-40 my fix it?

 

It works for those Blessed by Jaguar but not for sinners like me.
Be prepared to pull the door apart.

 

No harm in trying it has worked for many others.

 

I saw a post where said the you can get the switch at Radio Shack.

 

If that is not possible I provided a link for the switch on a previous post #14

 

I just did the job, thanks to all the posts and videos here! There are a couple of observations that make it easier.
1) Take the window down about 1/2" from full up. This makes it easier to take out the guide rail.
2) While taking out the 7MM bolt to remove the security plate, go all the way and take the second one out. This allows the outside handle to come out and it's 10 times easier to disconnect the brass and plastic rod that connects the lock to the latch.
3) Cut and insulate the BLUE wire on the new Omron microswitch. Only the BLACK (common) and RED (normally closed) contacts are required.
4) Install the new switch then use a simple continuity meter to check the circuit. The circuit is CLOSED when the door is OPEN. Look and play with the latch. It has three positions. The first is open, the second is when the striker is captured in the second position and final fully closed position, ready to lock. Attach your meter or buzzer or lamp to the microswitch. Have the lock in the open position. You should see continuity. (circuit operating) Move the latch to the second position, you should still have continuity. Click the latch shut and the circuit should open. Almost there. Adjust the bend on the microswitch lever so the switch changes state just as the latch rolls over from position two to position three. A bit of trial and error here bur once it is operating in that position, you know it is correct and the switch body is not acting like a stop for the lever.
5) As for puting the switch in 180 degrees out. Install the switch with the lever pointing towards the open throat of the latch where the striker plate enters the latch.
6) Re-assemble the latch and handles then test it properly before you put the door card back.

I did what SteveinFrance asked and there was water damage in th eso called sealed microswitch. It was also a real crappy switch inside so I'd always go with the Omron replacement rather than just another Burgess switch.

For what it's worth....
Cheers,

Dave