All my door speakers, left and right and both tweeters are not working in my XKR convertible (2000). The woofers at the back and the dash speakers are the only one the work. I want to test the amphiler in the boot but wonder how to disconnect the whole amphiler. The bolts at the front are easy. Who has a tip how to unbolt the amphiler?
If it is not the amphiler, what can it be. Who has experience in these things?

 

Hi Ron,
The door tweeters are on the same circuit as the dash speakers, so if the latter are working, then those two channels on the amp must be.

I see you've just recently acquired the car - was everything working then?

Is there definitely an amp in the trunk, or is it the CD player you're seeing? I ask because the standard sound system doesn't have door tweeters and it may just be that the door speaker units have let go.

Pop the triangular tweeter covers off the doors (they're just a press fit) and make sure that the tweeters are present.

edit: Just seen your other post and it looks like you do have the premium system with the amp. I've not seen anyone have issues with the door wiring due to constant flexing, so I'd still check the tweeters first just in case... Someone else asked about that plug, and I believe it's something that's only used prior to vehicle delivery?

There's another bolt behind the cage holding the CD/amp which is awkward to get to even in the coupe IIRC it's in the middle of the cage. Someone wiser will chime in to advise as you have the extra obstruction from the hood hydraulics.

HTH,
Mike

 

Thanks for the info. Yes i do have tweeters in the doors. I need to get my mulit meter and check them if they have a pulse. I realy don't fancy taking the convertible pump out. CD and radio do work. The only real haggle the car has is the all famous ACC not avaiable light. I checked the battery, tail lights, brake switch and everything is fine. Whats left is the speed sensors ia the wheels. If they function and are clean the only optio remains is to by pass the radar in the computer through the SDD Mongoos cable.
First thing is the sound systems. Not realy important because i usually drive the car without music on.

 

Have you checked your fader setting?

 

Yes. If i move the fader from front to rear it goes from dash to woofers and nothing in between. Also the "pos" settings won't change that.

 

Was just about to say that the fader is supposed to be dealer-disabled on the later convertible as there are only 'subwoofers' in the rear, hence nothing really to fade. Yours is obviously working, however.

Sounds like you're comfortable with test gear so check for open-circuit speakers/bad connections first.

Good luck,
Mike

 

No pulse on the multimeter on the tweeters. So i think it must be disconnecting the amph and clean all the connections. Looks like a winter project because i like to be driving this summer and not spent ages in the trunk. Anyone have the electric cirquit on PDF so i can take it with me to the car instead of looking on my computer?

 

Not sure what you mean by no pulse? Ohms check should read virtually short-circuit across a speaker coil, and you might hear a click from the test voltage.

All the electrical guides are available from Gus' excellent website: www.jagrepair.com
Here's the 2000 guide: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2000.pdf

There's a lot of electronics living in your trunk

HTH,
Mike

 

Ron, So it sounds like the door speakers do not work. I'd check them 1st with a multimeter set to ohms. Expect a reading around 4 ohms. If it is open (reading = infinite) then you need to rebuild or replace the speakers.

Those tweeters up by the window only reproduce around 6,000hz and above. Not too much music up there, so it is hard to hear + at older ages like many of us, myself included, hearing drops off at these upper frequencies. You probably know this but just in case: if you are trying to measure ohms for this tweeter, you have to place the probe on the speaker side of the capacitor. A capacitor will not let DC voltage trough and will appear open. Gosh it's been a while, I'm not even sure a ribbon speaker like this will display DC resistance.

I have used these guys for years and I do recommend them: Millersound Speaker Refoaming, Speaker Reconing and Repair Services
for speaker repair.

Once you have the Door speaker disconnected, it will be easy enough to place probes into the speaker connector, set it to AC voltage and play some music. Does it read voltage? If so, you have a good connection to that speaker connector.

John

 

Thanks for all your reactions. Very useful and i'm very glad with the electrical manual from jagrepair. I'm new to the Jaguar world so i never heared of it. My multimeter has ohm settings and it gave no reading. Also the big door speakers don't give any. Next step is to measure the output of the amplifier and claen the connectors.

 

OK if the speaker shows open, then the wire that goes from the terminal to the speaker coil to the other terminal is broken(open) somewhere. Just for the heck of it I would move the speaker in /out by hand. Is it rubbing? Then you have a burned voice coil. If not, take a look at the wire from the terminal to the speaker (below speaker cone inside basket). Is it broken off?

This is FYI, You can't fix these yourself but it will give you an answer at least.

Right now if you touched a 9 volt battery to the speaker terminals nothing can happen, it will not move, it will not go POP. If it does, your resistance reading was off.

Easiest Way to Prove circuit works OK: Ron, I'd hook up a known working speaker to the speaker terminals - does it work? Yes = Dead speaker. N0 = more work to find why the signal is not getting there.

You can just use plain old speaker wire. Twirl the end nice and tight, insert it into the speaker connector. Got aligator clips? Use one to attach the other end of the speaker wire to the known good speaker. You'll wish you had 3 hands about now . Frankly in a pinch you can probably use the leads from your multimeter. The point end goes into the speaker connector, the other end is held/touched to the speaker terminals (doesn't matter which terminal you use for which wire right now).

Ron I don't know your expertise so don't take the wrong way. DO NOT ground either side of the speaker connection as a short cut. You must hook a seperate wire from each speaker terminal to each side of the connector.

I bet the test speaker will play music, that will narrow it down to just a bad speaker driver in the door. Check with Millersound or your favorite speaker rebuilder to fix it.

Let us know how you do.

John

 

Thanks for posting the thread here. I have a 2000 XKR with a similar problem- neither the woofer nor the tweeter in either of the doors produce sound (dash speakers and sub are fine).

I am pretty sure the door woofers are good, because I did once hear them come on and then cut out a couple of times while driving the car on the highway.

I will be following up with more testing to determine where the short is happening.

Ron, What did you find on yours?

 

Well. Untill now i got a new amphiler. after changing that it appeared that the amphiler is fine. So i have two good ones. Next tip i got is that between the door and body is a connection where can be corrosion. I still have to check that. I will be following other leads and stay in touch with other tips.

 

John, as I recall I can get to the door speakers on my 1998 by unscrewing the grill at the bottom of the door. If I'm wrong either someone will jump in and correct me or you'll have wasted 5 minutes max.

Seems to me that you should verify if the speaker drivers work or not. Assuming that you haveaccess to them:

Gently push the cone in, let it rebound. Do you feel rubbing ? If yes coil blown rebuild or replace.

Unscrew speaker. Take note of where the door bracket is positioned and where it area he's. ( harder to recall than u think). Disconnect wire.

Measure resistance. Should be 2 to 8 ohms.

If no multi meter, do 9volt battery test describbed above. .

Assuming all ok: look for intermittent connection.

Hook up speaker. Turn on radio. Wiggle connector and wire. Look for intermittent sound.

FYI the super tweeter in upper door window corner is fed from the same wire that feeds the dash speaker. This super tweeter speaker plays only high frequency because of the capacitor soldered to its terminals.

Unfortunately I doubt it is in parallel with lower door speaker without some kind of high pass crossover. Thinking out loud...too bad you can't use the easy access super tweeter wire to send a test signal to lower door speaker.

A bit scattered but I hope it helps. Keep us posted. John

 

Forgot one thing. Honestly, taking the door skin off is much easier than you think, don't let it hold you back. Once you have done it 2 or 3 times, it is a 5 minute job at most. John

 

i certainly will remove the door panels to investigate the speakers. Because the car is in doors this winter and i won't be driving it, i have some time to fix this before next spring. Keep you all posted about the result.