A drill-free, reversible front license plate holder that costs less than $10
#1
08-25-2018, 12:06 PM
A drill-free, reversible front license plate holder that costs less than $10
I'm about to embark on a journey of close to 2,000 miles, crossing 8 states. Now, in Wisconsin, technically, I'm supposed to have a front license plate affixed at all times, but in practice, hahahaha no. Not so much as a peep from Johnny Law. Unfortunately one of the states I'll be traversing is Virginia, and from what I have read, the cops are notoriously strict. For all I know, the penalty for driving a car without a front plate could be $15,000 and a week in solitary. Better do something about that front plate then.
Like many of you in this situation, I'm determined to affix this hideous badge in as reversible a manner as possible. That said; while I want it to be temporary - I also want it to be secure. I don't want it rattling around in a way that could make noise or scratch paint, and I don't want it to be stolen (because, y'know, could happen?). But I refuse to drill into my vehicle in any manner - as I don't want to do anything to the car that isn't reversible.
I did discover later that I'd made some small scratches on the two upright bars - but they're not where you'll see them unless you are looking, and hey, if you decide to try this yourself, I bet you can think of a way around that (maybe affix some sort of scratch resistant tape?).
The finished product!
...and the finished product, un-finished afterwards!
If you look at the top of the two gray vertical bars, you'll see the scuffs made as I added and removed the brackets. If you choose to use this method yourself, see what you can come up with for a scratch-minimizing solution (my suggestion would be some sort of scratch-resistant, non-marking tape applied to the top of said bars). If you don't apply something, you're certain to scratch the paint as I did - but because I was trying a variety of brackets to see what fit best yours will likely be less substantial.
Here's what the damage looks like, up close. Again, you kinda have to know that it's there to see it.
Left Side
Right Side
Next post:
If I did it (Confessions of a guy who went to Menards)
Like many of you in this situation, I'm determined to affix this hideous badge in as reversible a manner as possible. That said; while I want it to be temporary - I also want it to be secure. I don't want it rattling around in a way that could make noise or scratch paint, and I don't want it to be stolen (because, y'know, could happen?). But I refuse to drill into my vehicle in any manner - as I don't want to do anything to the car that isn't reversible.
I did discover later that I'd made some small scratches on the two upright bars - but they're not where you'll see them unless you are looking, and hey, if you decide to try this yourself, I bet you can think of a way around that (maybe affix some sort of scratch resistant tape?).
The finished product!
...and the finished product, un-finished afterwards!
If you look at the top of the two gray vertical bars, you'll see the scuffs made as I added and removed the brackets. If you choose to use this method yourself, see what you can come up with for a scratch-minimizing solution (my suggestion would be some sort of scratch-resistant, non-marking tape applied to the top of said bars). If you don't apply something, you're certain to scratch the paint as I did - but because I was trying a variety of brackets to see what fit best yours will likely be less substantial.
Here's what the damage looks like, up close. Again, you kinda have to know that it's there to see it.
Left Side
Right Side
Next post:
If I did it (Confessions of a guy who went to Menards)
#2
08-25-2018, 12:31 PM
For the purposes of this post, I'll be referring to US license plate sizes, and will only be providing guidance as to how to get brackets available which you can fix a plate to.
From that point, you can use a license plate mount if you like, or just fix the plate right on to these brackets. You can use just about any nut/bolt combination you like the look of to fix the plate to these brackets. I used big hex-wrench bolts because they were shiny.
Before I get into the nuts and bolts of this, please be aware that this is something I figured out like two hours ago, and while it hasn't chewed up the front of my car yet, it still might!
Proceed at your own risk!
You will need:
Weather-resistant corner braces x2 - I used these:
National Hardware® 3" x 1-3/5" Black Wide Corner Brace
These are powder-coated so I am hoping they'll fare well enough for the couple weeks I'll be using them. These particular brackets also seem a bit less "sharp" at the edges when compared to the traditional Zinc brackets that were of the same shape.
Weather-resistant elevator bolt x2 - I used these:
Midwest Fastener® 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Zinc Grade A Elevator Bolt
Zinc-plated, again, should be fine for the application.
Some sort of fender washer to stop the elevator bolt from shimmying about, and to hold the brackets against the top half of the front bumper.
I used two of these for each side:
Grip Fast® 5/16" x 1-1/4" Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Fender Washer
Finally, you'll want some nuts to hold the whole mess in place. It would be very, very difficult to get any tool in the cramped spaces in and around the front bumper, so you will definitely want to use wingnuts so you can just finger-tighten.
I used one of these on each side:
Midwest Fastener® 1/4"-20 Zinc Wing Nut
My total parts cost with tax was a whopping $8.80.
EDITED: I later realized that the steel washers against the upper bumper could be aided by a rubber washer. Can anyone advise if the Neoprene material for this suggestion will do OK for temperature in the front bumper?
I'd put one in on each side.
Midwest Fastener® 5/16" Rubber Flat Washer
made of Neoprene
Next up: How I did it
From that point, you can use a license plate mount if you like, or just fix the plate right on to these brackets. You can use just about any nut/bolt combination you like the look of to fix the plate to these brackets. I used big hex-wrench bolts because they were shiny.
Before I get into the nuts and bolts of this, please be aware that this is something I figured out like two hours ago, and while it hasn't chewed up the front of my car yet, it still might!
Proceed at your own risk!
You will need:
Weather-resistant corner braces x2 - I used these:
National Hardware® 3" x 1-3/5" Black Wide Corner Brace
These are powder-coated so I am hoping they'll fare well enough for the couple weeks I'll be using them. These particular brackets also seem a bit less "sharp" at the edges when compared to the traditional Zinc brackets that were of the same shape.
Weather-resistant elevator bolt x2 - I used these:
Midwest Fastener® 1/4"-20 x 3/4" Zinc Grade A Elevator Bolt
Zinc-plated, again, should be fine for the application.
Some sort of fender washer to stop the elevator bolt from shimmying about, and to hold the brackets against the top half of the front bumper.
I used two of these for each side:
Grip Fast® 5/16" x 1-1/4" Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Fender Washer
Finally, you'll want some nuts to hold the whole mess in place. It would be very, very difficult to get any tool in the cramped spaces in and around the front bumper, so you will definitely want to use wingnuts so you can just finger-tighten.
I used one of these on each side:
Midwest Fastener® 1/4"-20 Zinc Wing Nut
My total parts cost with tax was a whopping $8.80.
EDITED: I later realized that the steel washers against the upper bumper could be aided by a rubber washer. Can anyone advise if the Neoprene material for this suggestion will do OK for temperature in the front bumper?
I'd put one in on each side.
Midwest Fastener® 5/16" Rubber Flat Washer
made of Neoprene
Next up: How I did it
Last edited by Tom Baker; 08-25-2018 at 01:45 PM.
#3
08-25-2018, 01:38 PM
Again, please don't tell me you damaged your car and that I didn't warn you. I did warn you, like, a few times. K?
The method by which the brackets hold in place is pretty simple to understand.
The first thing you'll notice when you eventually jam the brackets in the gap between the gray bar and the upper lip - is that there's already a bit of friction there that keeps the bracket from moving.
If the car weren't moving around (like a car), the friction is almost certainly enough to hold the license plate in place on its own. But if you drive like me, you'll want to give it some extra support.
Please note: I realized later that there ought to be a rubber washer in between the steel washers and the car bumper. I haven't gone out to buy those yet, but if you decide to do this yourself, get some rubber washers the same size as the fender washers, one for each side.
Here's the solution I came up with; the bracket slides in, and is held against the bottom of the upper lip of the bumper by two fender washers, and tightened down by a wingnut.
Initially I'd thought about using some manner of screw to drill into the top of the gray bar - this way, I'd still be drilling, but at least you wouldn't see the holes. But as it turns out, that's not only not necessary, I don't think it's possible (at least, without removing the hood or other parts that are in the way).
Here's how I did it:
Step 1: Take that elevator bolt and jam it in the bracket
I'm using elevator bolts because they're the slimmest I could find that fit into this bracket - as in, without adding unnecessary thickness to the bracket, as it slides in the gap between the gray bar and the top lip of the bumper.
Note that you will use different holes for each bracket - pictured below is the bracket as it will fit into the left side; the right side would use the other hole. Don't add the washers or nut yet - the pic above is just for illustrative purposes!
Step 2: Gently slide the bracket/bolt assembly in the gap between the gray bar and the top lip.
There's a bit of give in the bumper; so you could use your free hand to gently push the lip upward and make the slide a bit easier.
You will want to insert from the outside inwards, (that is, with the left bracket inserted on the left side of the left gray bar, and the right on the right side).
Now, gently slide the bracket toward the center of the gap...
...while pushing the outer edge of the bracket in, towards the front of the car.
Step 3: Add the washers and nut, but don't fully finger-tighten the nut yet.
Couldn't get a picture of this step, because as you'll see when you try this, it's really bloody tight up there. There's just enough space to work that wingnut, but not to photograph.
As mentioned above, get some rubber fender washers which are the same size as the steel ones, and place those closest to the car body.
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 for the other side.
Remember, you want the elevator bolt to be on the outside of the bracket, and the bracket to be overlapping into the center of the two gray bars.
Step 5: Center, align, and finger-tighten the wingnuts.
Using a license plate frame, align the brackets until you're happy with their position.
You can use a license plate but it'll be a lot harder, since you can't see through the plate.
Step 6: Affix the plate to the brackets however you like.
This is genuinely the hardest part, because once those brackets are in place, it's difficult as hell to reach up and get a nut behind that bracket. Space is tight, but eventually, you'll get it done.
I'd suggest loosening one of the two brackets so you can bring the plate forward (kinda like a door on a hinge), fix the plate to that bracket, and then push it back and struggle on the other side - but beware, doing it this way does increase the chance you scratch the top of those gray bars some. Granted, it shouldn't be where you can see a scratch but you never know.
Step 7: Curse the concept of front license plate laws, and the state of Virginia (optional)
Done!
The method by which the brackets hold in place is pretty simple to understand.
The first thing you'll notice when you eventually jam the brackets in the gap between the gray bar and the upper lip - is that there's already a bit of friction there that keeps the bracket from moving.
If the car weren't moving around (like a car), the friction is almost certainly enough to hold the license plate in place on its own. But if you drive like me, you'll want to give it some extra support.
Please note: I realized later that there ought to be a rubber washer in between the steel washers and the car bumper. I haven't gone out to buy those yet, but if you decide to do this yourself, get some rubber washers the same size as the fender washers, one for each side.
Here's the solution I came up with; the bracket slides in, and is held against the bottom of the upper lip of the bumper by two fender washers, and tightened down by a wingnut.
Initially I'd thought about using some manner of screw to drill into the top of the gray bar - this way, I'd still be drilling, but at least you wouldn't see the holes. But as it turns out, that's not only not necessary, I don't think it's possible (at least, without removing the hood or other parts that are in the way).
Here's how I did it:
Step 1: Take that elevator bolt and jam it in the bracket
I'm using elevator bolts because they're the slimmest I could find that fit into this bracket - as in, without adding unnecessary thickness to the bracket, as it slides in the gap between the gray bar and the top lip of the bumper.
Note that you will use different holes for each bracket - pictured below is the bracket as it will fit into the left side; the right side would use the other hole. Don't add the washers or nut yet - the pic above is just for illustrative purposes!
Step 2: Gently slide the bracket/bolt assembly in the gap between the gray bar and the top lip.
There's a bit of give in the bumper; so you could use your free hand to gently push the lip upward and make the slide a bit easier.
You will want to insert from the outside inwards, (that is, with the left bracket inserted on the left side of the left gray bar, and the right on the right side).
Now, gently slide the bracket toward the center of the gap...
...while pushing the outer edge of the bracket in, towards the front of the car.
Step 3: Add the washers and nut, but don't fully finger-tighten the nut yet.
Couldn't get a picture of this step, because as you'll see when you try this, it's really bloody tight up there. There's just enough space to work that wingnut, but not to photograph.
As mentioned above, get some rubber fender washers which are the same size as the steel ones, and place those closest to the car body.
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 for the other side.
Remember, you want the elevator bolt to be on the outside of the bracket, and the bracket to be overlapping into the center of the two gray bars.
Step 5: Center, align, and finger-tighten the wingnuts.
Using a license plate frame, align the brackets until you're happy with their position.
You can use a license plate but it'll be a lot harder, since you can't see through the plate.
Step 6: Affix the plate to the brackets however you like.
This is genuinely the hardest part, because once those brackets are in place, it's difficult as hell to reach up and get a nut behind that bracket. Space is tight, but eventually, you'll get it done.
I'd suggest loosening one of the two brackets so you can bring the plate forward (kinda like a door on a hinge), fix the plate to that bracket, and then push it back and struggle on the other side - but beware, doing it this way does increase the chance you scratch the top of those gray bars some. Granted, it shouldn't be where you can see a scratch but you never know.
Step 7: Curse the concept of front license plate laws, and the state of Virginia (optional)
Done!
The following users liked this post:
Norri (08-25-2018)
#4
08-25-2018, 02:39 PM
#5
08-25-2018, 02:44 PM
Veteran Member
Thank god Michigan isn't requiring this. I just bought an X150 XKR and first thing I did when I got it home was remove the license plate frame and installed bumper plugs.
Very well done! A very elegant solution to an idiotic category of legislature. Maybe English owners can pipe in, but don't they offer different shapes and even self affixing license "plates" over there to not require crap like this?
Very well done! A very elegant solution to an idiotic category of legislature. Maybe English owners can pipe in, but don't they offer different shapes and even self affixing license "plates" over there to not require crap like this?
#7
08-26-2018, 07:25 PM
Nice job. I'm in FL so I have no need to do it but it's a good solution - much better than a standard bracket. I've also seen an electric bracket that slides the plate in and out as needed. Imagine being pulled over for no front plate, pressing the button as the cop comes to your window and innocently saying "What do you mean officer? I have a front plate, look!" It'd be worth getting pulled over just to see the look on his face.
A lot more than 9 bucks though!
A lot more than 9 bucks though!
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#8
08-27-2018, 08:44 PM
Veteran Member
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zray (08-27-2018)
#9
08-27-2018, 09:44 PM
I think the biggest benefit to this system is that the brackets go on and off with no tools but your hands, so I'm thinking of just trying my luck at driving with no plate, and then putting it on if I get stopped...
#10
08-28-2018, 06:32 AM
Veteran Member
Yep! Don't think I haven't thought it; it's a profoundly stupid place to put a license plate for a vehicle that already isn't getting enough airflow. Thing is, though, that's where Jaguar puts the bloody plates with the factory mounting kit!
I think the biggest benefit to this system is that the brackets go on and off with no tools but your hands, so I'm thinking of just trying my luck at driving with no plate, and then putting it on if I get stopped...
I think the biggest benefit to this system is that the brackets go on and off with no tools but your hands, so I'm thinking of just trying my luck at driving with no plate, and then putting it on if I get stopped...
#12
08-28-2018, 09:00 AM
I have run into the same issues. I live in a state (un-named) that requires a front plate, but I have been driving around without one for nearly a year without problems.
I keep the front plate (with bracket) behind the passenger seat on the floor, ready to put in in the front window if pulled over. My plan is to explain that the aftermarket plate bracket became "very loose" and I was afraid it would fall off!
"I have an original factory bracket on order from a Jaguar dealer, and I'm waiting for it to arrive" (crossing fingers behind my back)
I keep the front plate (with bracket) behind the passenger seat on the floor, ready to put in in the front window if pulled over. My plan is to explain that the aftermarket plate bracket became "very loose" and I was afraid it would fall off!
"I have an original factory bracket on order from a Jaguar dealer, and I'm waiting for it to arrive" (crossing fingers behind my back)
#13
08-28-2018, 11:04 AM
I bought the Adamesh XK8/XKR Number Plate plinth (pre 2004 version) for my 97 XK8 to avoid the problem of driving with no front tag in Maryland. I already had a warning on my 2014 Corvette so I did not want to take any chances.
Yes, it involved drilling 4 small holes in the underside of the front valance. Yes, the license plate is mounted below the grill so extreme speed bumps could be an issue, but only severe ones. Yes, it looks great and no one would even see the holes if the car was transferred to a state not requiring a front tag.
Given the need for a front tag, it proved to be the least intrusive solution for my car...though the picture below is before the plate was installed)
Yes, it involved drilling 4 small holes in the underside of the front valance. Yes, the license plate is mounted below the grill so extreme speed bumps could be an issue, but only severe ones. Yes, it looks great and no one would even see the holes if the car was transferred to a state not requiring a front tag.
Given the need for a front tag, it proved to be the least intrusive solution for my car...though the picture below is before the plate was installed)
#14
08-28-2018, 04:45 PM
#15
08-29-2018, 04:12 AM
It just wasn’t worth it for me to drive without. I only drive the car in the summer. We live in a coastal resort town where it seems on any given day from June until Sept. they have 100 officers on duty. 2 days ago I came off the parkway on 34th drove the island to the gardens (about 5 miles) and passed or saw 9 police cars 
#16
08-29-2018, 08:34 PM
Looks pretty good!
In Wisconsin the front plate is only required IF there is a designated mounting bracket, I.e no bracket/screw holes no place to put the front plate. Other states, I cannot speak for on this, however if you have out of state plates I don't believe any other state can enforce any such thing, I know Illinois requires a front plate no matter what, and you may be issued a citation by someone but it will never hold up. You'd think the boys in blue would have something more important to do than watch for people with only a rear plate. Haha
In Wisconsin the front plate is only required IF there is a designated mounting bracket, I.e no bracket/screw holes no place to put the front plate. Other states, I cannot speak for on this, however if you have out of state plates I don't believe any other state can enforce any such thing, I know Illinois requires a front plate no matter what, and you may be issued a citation by someone but it will never hold up. You'd think the boys in blue would have something more important to do than watch for people with only a rear plate. Haha
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