Driver side door misaligned
#1
Driver side door misaligned
It appears that the previous owner used the driver side door(rag top) as a crutch to get out of the car and over time has caused the door to drop about a 1/16" or so. Doesn't sound like much, but I hate to have to slam the door so hard to get it to close. The passenger door shuts with the ease of a classic Jag, just as it should. Has anyone made adjustments to their door and if so, do you have any advice on how to do it or are there any pit falls to watch out for?
Thanks
David
2002 Jag cat
Thanks
David
2002 Jag cat
#2
David
If you open the door and there is play when you move it up and down , your hinges are worn ( unlikely) If not, you can correct the alignment yourself, with a floor jack.
Just be careful when you jack it up, go slow, a little at a time. I would use a 2 x 4 and a pad as not to do any damage. I keep a stack of carpet samples I got from Sears when they were throwing them out just for this type of occasion.
If you open the door and there is play when you move it up and down , your hinges are worn ( unlikely) If not, you can correct the alignment yourself, with a floor jack.
Just be careful when you jack it up, go slow, a little at a time. I would use a 2 x 4 and a pad as not to do any damage. I keep a stack of carpet samples I got from Sears when they were throwing them out just for this type of occasion.
#3
Doug,
That's the way we used to do it in the days when door frames were more substantial. I think with the (relatively) lighter construction of the XK8 door, there's a risk of distortion.
My preferred technique would be:
1. remove the door card
2. jack as described to support the door
3. mark the existing hinge positions relative to the door with a felt tip or scriber
4. slacken the top hinge on the 3 door end bolts
5. lift the door gradually to raise the rear by the required amount
6. tighten 3 hinge bolts
If there isn't sufficient adjustment available on the top hinge to lift by the required amount, repeat with the bottom hinge.
Graham
That's the way we used to do it in the days when door frames were more substantial. I think with the (relatively) lighter construction of the XK8 door, there's a risk of distortion.
My preferred technique would be:
1. remove the door card
2. jack as described to support the door
3. mark the existing hinge positions relative to the door with a felt tip or scriber
4. slacken the top hinge on the 3 door end bolts
5. lift the door gradually to raise the rear by the required amount
6. tighten 3 hinge bolts
If there isn't sufficient adjustment available on the top hinge to lift by the required amount, repeat with the bottom hinge.
Graham
#4
Graham
The steel doors on the Xk-8 are more than sufficient, I wouldn't do it on the later aluminum XK's I've had the doors apart, even with glued skins this method will work. especially for only 1/16" When we had the collision shop we could adjust up to about 1/2" or more without any distortion. These doors are designed for side collision impact, they are very substantial.
The steel doors on the Xk-8 are more than sufficient, I wouldn't do it on the later aluminum XK's I've had the doors apart, even with glued skins this method will work. especially for only 1/16" When we had the collision shop we could adjust up to about 1/2" or more without any distortion. These doors are designed for side collision impact, they are very substantial.
#5
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#8
Hi David,
Had the same scenario with my then brand new to me 98 convertible. Went to the body shop where the local dealership has their work done. One of the techs came out with a tool that leveraged the door up as Tony suggested. 3 minutes effort and it has been perfect since. They didn't even charge me...mutually beneficial as I have spent several thousand dollars with them since.
Had the same scenario with my then brand new to me 98 convertible. Went to the body shop where the local dealership has their work done. One of the techs came out with a tool that leveraged the door up as Tony suggested. 3 minutes effort and it has been perfect since. They didn't even charge me...mutually beneficial as I have spent several thousand dollars with them since.
#10
#11
Well then, these are all interesting ways to get it done.
I don't agree with yanking on the door like a mad man until you deform it enough to close.
Graham was correct, except unless I read wrong you should loosen both hinges once it is supported instead of just the top hinge.
This is how I do it for all cars I fix, trucks also.
After all manufacturers leave room for adjustment at the hinges because over time your hinges will sag allowing you to simply adjust the bolts instead of replacing them.
Except cheverolet on their trucks, they weld the hinges to the A and B pillar. (not fun to work with)
I don't agree with yanking on the door like a mad man until you deform it enough to close.
Graham was correct, except unless I read wrong you should loosen both hinges once it is supported instead of just the top hinge.
This is how I do it for all cars I fix, trucks also.
After all manufacturers leave room for adjustment at the hinges because over time your hinges will sag allowing you to simply adjust the bolts instead of replacing them.
Except cheverolet on their trucks, they weld the hinges to the A and B pillar. (not fun to work with)
#12
Just been reading this thread and found it very interesting, my 1996 XJS Celebration drivers door is down a bit and has caused a gouge in the silver sill plate. No doubt caused by the P.O using the door as a handle to extricate himself from the seat! When I get time this is a method I will use to reposition the door again, I think it needs about 1-2mm adjustment that's all.
Many thanks for the suggestions, even if it is for another type of car, but its a Jaguar so in the same family.....
Many thanks for the suggestions, even if it is for another type of car, but its a Jaguar so in the same family.....
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