You, my dear sirs, are geniuses. Just popped the door after much knuckle skinning. It was exactly as in the video of the XJ. I took a screwdriver and popped the lock actuator upwards as he did. It is stiff enoigh that I cannot get the actuator to move upwards by hand, though it will move down by hand. I will note, doing it on an XK with the door is much tighter than in his video. It seemed like I did most of this job blind because of the lack of space. Without you guys, I'd be lost. Thank you so much for your help!

Next task is to take the latch out, which should be fairly simple now that I have room. I will update as needed.

Thanks again, I owe you guys one!

This is what room I had to work with. Once my hand was in there I could not see. You can just see the top of the lock actuator in the photo.

 

Latch came out very easy after all that other stuff. I plan on rebuilding the entire thing, or at least looking into that vs alternatives. I don't want to put a used unit in for fear of it happening again. And new units...well, that is not going to happen. I'm sure they want an arm and a leg for them. I saw Gus replaced the microswitches. I plan on doing that along with seeing what my options are to rebuild/replace the lock actuator.

Ran out of day light today, otherwise I would have put the driver's seat back in. I had also removed the whole rear trim cover (that goes over the rear speaker) in hopes it would give me more room or give me a better view, but it did not, so that is already back in place.

Just as a side note, I did use GGG's tip in removing the locking rod that connects the key hole. It slipped right off using his method.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x.../#&gid=1&pid=1

 

Great result.
Glad you got there.

Mike

 

Gus, is this the microswitch that you purchased through allied electric?

Johnson Electric - V4NST7YCUL - SIM Roller 0.67 Inch 250 VAC 5A SubMiniature Sealed Snap Action Switch - Allied Electronics

The description is the same, but their picture does not have the metal tabs that yours do, but it may be a stock photo. And just to double check, they allowed you to order a small quantity?

On a side note, I found the lock actuator to be manufactured by VDO, so I contacted them via email and requested information on it. I couldn't find the exact one in their catalogue so I'm afraid they may not manufature that specific actuator anymore. On the Jaguar parts diagrams I have not found that you can buy the lock actuator separate from the latch mechanism. In the online picture diagrams you can't really tell if the latch comes with the actuator, but the description usually mentions lock actuator so I can only assume it is included. The latch looks like it is just under $200 new. I think I will pop open the case on my actuator and see how complicated it is inside. Ofcourse, I really do need to test it first to verify it is in fact the actuator malfunctioning.

I figured while I have the door apart I'd lube the window guides, possible replace the relay for the lock (I believe there is one inside the door), and replace the rubber gasket on the exterior door handle. If there is anything else I am missing that I should do while in there, please chime in!

 

Managed to open up the lock actuator and found the problem. One of the small sliding plastic pieces (small white piece in the picture) is broken and catches on an edge inside and gets jammed, depending on the position of the unit. Brainstorming right now to see what I can replace it with. Everything else inside looks good, motor turns freely. Silly how the smallest part inside jammed up the whole thing and caused such an issue. I'd love to replace it with a metal bit, but that may be even harder to find and tailor than a plastic piece. Based on how it cracked, I don't think plastic gluing or welding would hold up.

 

Good find! As for the repair I would go on the search and see if you can find a replacement first. As for the switches, I use the ones what was given to me; I did not order them so I cannot confirm the fit.

 

My musings, so please feel free to nod or giggle as you see fit.

This looks like a combination of a somewhat under-engineered bit of plastic and a failure of a travel limit switch somewhere. JTIS shows two switches inside the actuator, but I can only see one, which appears to be the actuator arm retracted/extended state:- lock status?


Can't see a changeover one.

What to do? The actuator is certainly not available from Jaguar as a separate part. I'd seek one from a parts XJ as it's likely to be cheaper.

Despite the flimsiness of the plastic peg, IMO the cause is the actuator having to work too hard, due either to a stiff mechanism or the arm being driven beyond limits:-failed changeover microswitch, wherever it is?

...and I managed to avoid my usual rant about little bits of plastic

Mike

 

In this age of 3-D printing, I wonder how difficult it would be to "print" a new beefed-up piece?

Vince

 

Vince, you read my mind. I debated on 3-D printing it. I don't know much about them nor do I own one, but I do know someone who probably could get it done. I question the grade of plastic they use in 3-D printing, as I don't know if it would be too brittle (at least coming from the pieces I have handled). I would imagine they probably have different grades of plastics to print with, though. Part of the problem with beefing it up is that the part has to have some flex to it in order for the brown catch on the threaded rod be able to bypass it when it comes to its limit. Plus, there is only so much room inside, so reenforcing much past what they had is not as feasable as I had thought. I have not plugged it in to verify exactly how it works, but I assume the catch stops when it bottoms, because, as Michael pointed out, there is only one limiter switch.

I originally considered a metal piece to take its place, but upon seeing the action it needs to perform I would be afraid if I made it too rigid (filing out of a blank) it would not produce the flex needed and it would have the side effect of wearing down the catch rather quickly, because, as we all know, metal is quite a bit harder than plastic. If the metal were made too thin, I think wear would still be an issue, but it would not be as forgiving as plastic from flexing and may become bent out of shape over time and would fail yet again. Plastic seems to be the material of choice. It's weird, it's almost as if the design engineers put thought into this or something.

Michael, I would agree, from looking at it and by it only having one switch, it would seem the motor would be greatly overworked once the catch reaches the bottom at the plastic gear. I am quite surprised in the design myself, and would not have thought it would have taken much to install a second switch. I assume the only reason the catch stops is because the pulse of power it receives is set to a specific time. How closely it is regulated is the question as it would not take much for it to strain the system. Perhaps the design engineers didn't think it through after all. I also know the latch mechanism needs to be lubricated, as it is incredibly stiff.

EDIT: I added two pictures of the other side of the motor. It does have a resistor in place, with two wires feeding it and two wires feeding the switch. If I'm not mistaken they are using the resistor as the second switch when the catch bottoms out.

With that said, and because I may have had all too much time on my hands, behold prototype #1 in the picture. I looked around the place to see what I could find and decided to use a plastic plunger used to push ant bait out of a tube. It had the ribs I needed and was surprisingly very close to size. The plastic I used may be too soft, but may also produce the much needed flex instead of the break that the last one did. As a side note, it now does not surprise me that the plastic piece failed during cold weather. I'm sure it has become brittle with age, and the cold made it extra so. I beefed it up where I could, which unfortunately is not as much as I would have liked due to the space constraints. I still need to clean it up, but it looks like it fits and works. I'm really just more curious as to whether I could do it out of something on hand. I'd much rather have a purpose made piece and am still open to suggestions, especially as it is only a matter of time before other owners have this problem and will need the same piece. I may still check out 3-D printing as an option.

Disclaimer: Mass producing these may be a bit of an issue due to time.

 

Fascinating stuff. Your tenacity and resourcefulness are impressive!

You could make a beefier part, but I believe that the unit failed at the weakest point and reinforcing the peg will just move the problem elsewhere: possibly the nylon gear on the worm drive where it meshes with the brass of the motor.

Your disassembled actuator is at variance with JTIS in relation to the changeover switch. I've taken another look at Gus' page and he does mention a changeover switch operated by another lever. Maybe that's where it really is and I'm treating JTIS too much as a bible.

Just seen your extra closeup:- the switch is definitely on/off and must be the 'lock status' indicator. I can see no way that it could sensibly provide limit information. The black 'teardrop' will be a suppressor wired across the motor.

Perhaps it is as you suggest and relies on the pulse length, or maybe it's done by sensing the motor stall? Or maybe wing and a prayer? All conjecture for the moment on my part and all academic as that particular design horse bolted 20 years ago


Separately, I believe Vince is right, and that 3D printing will be one of our saviours as the technology improves and becomes more accessible.

Just my

Mike

 

Thank you for your kind words, though my wife would call it something different: "cheap."

I agree, reenforcing too much could very well cause problems elsewhere in such a fragile unit.

I installed the unit back in the door today and tested it several times. It seems to work okay, but when pulling the exterior door latch it seems a bit "sticky." I think I may have not adjusted it properly by way of the threaded rod on the door interior. Ofcourse I kept the door panel off incase it breaks again. We'll see if the lock mechanism holds up. Every time I replace something on a car I start to "hear" things that weren't there before. But ofcourse they probably were there before I just didn't pay any attention to them, but I cannot verify they were in fact there before because I didn't pay them any attention in the first place. I suppose this whole car hobby may have led me to insanity.

Thanks for the clarification on the "suppressor." If I any knew less about electronics than I currently know (which is very little), I may have just pulled it off and discarded it as an unnecessary part.

I JB welded the old plastic component together in hopes of being able to 3-D print, but I think with a glued seam in there, a new piece would be a much better model to copy from.

In my searches I did come across this gem of a thread, which gives a link and some discussion on replacing the microswitches. Thought I would mention it here for anyone looking into replacing them, and ofcourse, to remind me where I read it.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oswitch-68735/

I did spray electrical cleaner on all the plugs, switches, amd solder joints, along with using graphite on the latch. I think the graphite made more of a mess than it was worth, WD-40 or spray silicone would have done similar.

 

Just a bit of an update. I've had the door card off for the last month or two in fear that my engineered bit may fail. The good news is that it is still holding up. I addressed the sticky exterior handle today. I found it odd that the interior door handle works well to unlatch the door in any sequence, such as directly after locking, unlocking, or after working the exterior handle. The exterior handle, on the other hand, would only partially unlatch the door after locking and unlocking the door. It would work okay when no locking and unlocking cycle was completed, though even then sometimes it would catch and I would have to work the door handle a second time with a tug to get it to open.

After fidgeting with the striker with no success, I moved on to the threaded rod inside the door that connects the exterior handle to the latching assembly. I popped the threaded end connector on and off varying the overall length, trying to get the handle to grab the latch better, with no success. As a side note, instead of tugging on the metal rod connecting the exterior handle to the latch and risking bending the rod, I found end cutting pliers to be the perfect way to get the rod disconnected from the latch. Simply fit the end of the pliers in between the plastic threaded end and the metal door latch arm, and pry them apart. The threaded end pops right off with no stress to the rod.

I removed the door latch again, and upon inspection found that after the door is locked and then unlocked, the locking solenoid arm does not protrude enough upward to fully unlock the latch. The interior latch would work fine because by pulling on the handle the latch will unlock automatically by the action. Whereas pulling on the exterior handle the latch acted as if it was still partially locked, because it was. It was interesting that the lock solenoid would not fully unlock the latch, as it literally would not reach high enough. There is no adjustment in the placement of the lock solenoid box either...just two mounting screw holes. So I don't know if over 11 years of use the latch mechanism itself became worn or mal adjusted and caused it to not function properly. I don't recall having the sticky door latch issue before the lock solenoid went kaput, but I did have an issue with the door latching when I first bought it, but chalked it up to the cold weather.

After trying a couple of different things, I found the easiest and quickest remedy was to take a pair of pliers and slightly bend the metal arm that extends through the plastic lock solenoid arm hole, downwards. This gave the lock solenoid a better ability to push the latch arm upwards a bit more to fully unlock the latch. Fearing the new angle of the metal arm may cause premature wear on the solenoid plastic arm, I bent a small piece of metal onto the edge of the plastic arm where the metal latch arm rides on it, so it is metal on metal vs plastic on metal. This is super MacGyver and definately not for everyone, but I thought I would document it here in case someone else has a problem with the exterior handle not fully opening the door.

I reinstalled the latch and am pleased to say that both handles on the door work well, along with the locking and unlocking. I reassembled the window guide, door card, and other components, and the interior feels like a normal car again!

Here is a before and after picture of the modification today.