Hello all,
my 1999 xk8 convertible drivers side window has commonly needed to be reset throughout ownership for close to a year, on the second new battery now, just got a new alternator and battery in it a little over a week ago since the previous relatively new $300 battery was overheating on one of the terminals, new battery and alternator paired are working good together.

Recently, the driver side window has been needing to be reset a lot more often, and just now, after a short drive, when it didn't go up and I went back in to reset it, the controls did nothing at all, no ability to reset, and the drivers side passenger window control button did not work either, however the passenger side control button and passenger window are working normally as always.
Voltage has been very good, tested with voltmeter yesterday for no reason, and it was good before starting, during starting, and while running.


I know there are multiple window related parts and issues, if you don't mind me asking what this might usually be? So I can order and not order something I don't need. Thanks

feel a little turned off after ordering blower motor and resistor on dads x150, installing and them doing nothing to fix. hope I can actually get something fixed with this.

 

1. Lets prove it to the switch.
Open passenger and/ or rear windows
Get out of car. Shut doors. Key in door.
Turn key anti clockwise all the way.
Widows will all shut.

Does drivers window move?
Yes = bad window switch drivers inside door.

No = I assume all other windows closed if not stop and lets reset.

Ok all but drivers window closed.
Did / does driver window move at all ever? If so say when.

No driver window (dw) movement = suspect bad regulator or regulator connection.

I do not believe it is jammed since you saw spurious movement yesterday.

‐------------ Regroup ----------'
Window works with key, not switch.
Can you use DVM for voltage readings?
Yes, let's take driver door switch pack out, look for 12volts on dw open wires. I have mapped this out and published for 1998. I will tell you which wires to probe.

Friend we are getting into several paths to take based on your answers. While waiting for answers, tell us this:

Does the mirror adjustment work at all? (Same power supply as switch below it)

You open drivers door, does puddle light go on?

Key in ignition on door open. Do you see red warning Drivers door open?

John

 

I really appreciate this and I know it will help narrow it down, did not really have an idea where to start before this.
The cars are already parked to where dad is going to use my car earlier in the day tomorrow and I'll be with his because of the AC blower no power issue in his, it is dark now, but when he brings mine back tomorrow evening I will get to troubleshooting. Thanks very much again

 

Interestingly, in the morning the window seemed to work again? yesterday it was completely dead for both sides on driver control.
It still keeps needing to be reset and will go lower and lower each time the door is opened (not going up on its own) like it has been lately, but the controls function as they should and I am able to reset it. she can be temperamental sometimes.

 

If you are feeling soldering Iron confident then the part that deteriorated inside all our electronic modules are the electrolytic capacitors .If you de case the unit and replace the capacitors you may have a solution. Only costs a few dollars

 

Friend it would be awesome if you could answer all the points I made. You don't realize but they each have a path.

Puddle lights
Red light door open message

Passenger door is perfect??
John

 

Hello, sorry just got back to this,
I just got some time to spend on the car again,
The reason I did not immediately get back to the steps was because it seemed to work the diminished way it was before the next morning, was not completely dead the day after for some reason.
Here is what I know as of now:

Window can be reset but hardly ever remembers to go back up when closed, usually need to do it a couple times or reset it once every evening.
the window will work with the controls. The puddle light and the door open code do show on dash, however the car can now only be manually locked and unlocked as of today. Battery voltage is still good via voltmeter.

 

To continue, when rolling all the windows down with clockwise key, they all went down, counter clockwise they all went up as they should. I appreciate this information either way because it would be very helpful when about to go in a store or something and it hasn't gone up if it looks cloudy etc.
The mirror controls worked as they should as well.
Key fob does nothing, I will replace its battery just to see, but the timing of it and window controls not working at all a couple days ago after no related issues for a while seems strange.

 

Update, key fob works with new battery

 

Thanks.
Loose wire connector at driver door?
Key works. Window switch works: So, wire connector at door jamb is ok.

Bad door switch in lock mechanism?
Puddle light works (car doesn't think door is always open). Assuming it goes off door closed.
In 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999(? We need to double check 1999) the door switch controls all door open / closed logic.
Opening a closed door - widow drops
Door open:
Puddle light on
Dash displays open door
Door lock disabled.
Can not set alarm

Closing door: window rises to seal
Closed: puddle light off
Red display off
Door locks work
Alarm works and locks doors

Friend at some point, FOLKS PLEASE CORRECT ME IF WRONG, in the 2000s model years the door switch mentioned above no longer controls puddle lights and dash display.

Look, if your 1999 has separate inputs for turn the puddle light on when open, and [switch in door lock] drop the window when you touch the handle to open the door - this could be a bad door lock switch. It thinks door is closed, so each time you touch handle window drops.

Unless someone corrects us let's go with 1 switch same in 1996 - 1999 cars.

Now we are dealing with window reset issue.

99.9% of the time this is tied to battery voltage level. I'm not talking about significant battery drain, a little down can cause this. Any chance you could hook her up to a charger for a few hours?

BTW what reading did you get battery at rest?

Hard reset. Whether you charge battery or not, try this. Disco + battery cable. Touch it to negative terminal 10 seconds. Reattach. Now reset windows. BTW no you don't lose radio presets. I believe you are in North America so odds you have a radio that requires reset code are so small - you got a new battery last yr anyway, you'd have found out then.

I'm still betting on battery voltage. 12volts isn't much of an EMF. You sure your battery terminals are shiny clean?

 

I will hard reset it tomorrow, I get 12.87/12.88V while the car is at rest, while starting it drops to 11 and then goes back up as it should. It should be noted that for almost a year of daily to near daily use of the car, it has almost always, if not always, had the battery not charging light on. I have tested it and had it tested numerous times, has had 2 batteries.
battery terminals look clean , will attach image just to see if theres anything you might spot that I don't know about.

recently, a little over a week ago, it did finally actually need an alternator, new alternator installed with new battery because apparently the dying alternator was causing one of the old new battery terminals to overheat, voltage has been back to where it should be, but the light still persists.

Throughout ownership, the only thing that has really indicated anything to do with battery light has been the drivers window not going back up and needing to be reset often, I just know it is without a doubt happening and not remembering more often now, but never happens with passenger, or anything else really that I can think of,
The first time it got a new battery months ago, the night before, the car was definitely acting up, throwing codes, dimming, and I could tell it needed a new battery or something, new battery later the car was fine on a near daily basis for months after. that was the first battery under my ownership, most recent battery was because of the strain on the new battery from alternator dying causing overheat I assume.

I have read it can be anything from a ground cable to a big high power protection module fuse or relay, although I will try resetting battery tomorrow and see. I'm not an expert on the more detailed electronic diagnosing for sure.
Because I've been more reliant on feel and manually testing and having places test the power output, I have not been too concerned about the battery light, but I figured I would bring it up either way.

I think we can take the locking aspect out of the equation, used it a few times yesterday after new fob battery and it functioned every time. I do think the timing was just unlucky because this has happened one other time before, sometimes the fob will split at the seam also and barely loosen the battery enough to not function.

 

Ok good feedback! Not sure about the drops to 11 part. Maybe say more?

If you poked the lead (pb) battery terminals to get the 12.8 reading, cool. Now please try this: one poke on the 12volts + battery post, the other lead on any shiny metal part. Lots of them nearby. Why? This tests the connections to the battery. Its rare but it doesn't take much hard to see corrosion to "block" some of the 12volts from getting through. Iow if you have a noticeable voltage drop - you just found that all of your batteries energy isn't getting into the car wires.

We've even had reports of unable to start car because of this. Wth clean the posts with a brush when you do the reset today. Fingers crossed.

John

 

J, did some checking. 12.4 volts or more at rest is good.

No definitive answer of when jaguar move to different door open/closed sensors. Plenty of previous threads about this problem on 1999s, I told them what I told you about puddle lights, dash display, and door lock.

Plain and simple- your drivers door is open. If you can press the inside handle and it locks - come back and say so. That would confirm your car is unlike previous years; it could be as simple as car thinks door is shut.

Other than that, go with reset, test voltage T different points.

John

 

I apologize for the late response, I was out of town for a while and forgot my password to the site, usually log on computer.
My car is like previous years, it does not lock with the door open and inside handle out, pushed in, to be honest every since our first interaction and I reset the windows with roof key and battery, it has hardly ever happened, maybe once or twice a day or so after, but since then in the last 2 weeks of daily use, it has not happened. I have no idea why that one day it decided to completely give out after going bad for a while, all in all I have taken the car on a 4 hour trip to another state, used it daily there, and brought it back, over the course of a week+ it has not happened, I replaced nothing, strange.
still have the battery not charging light always on even after resetting the car, but it never affects voltage aside from the one time i legitimately needed an alternator/battery and has been on for almost a year.
thank you

 

Hello again,
I think the time has come for a door lock actuator, it has started showing all the telltale signs and a bit more often.
door open light while door closed now, alarm randomly going off, unable to lock, window not going back up more often,
it stopped doing the window stuff for a while after it completely died the first time, was back to normal, but past few weeks its gotten worse.
do you have any advice for this job? any buying tips looking for an actuator? I see one from a 55k mile car for $186, might have to go for that one. can't seem to find any new but I assume brand new OEM would be $1000 or something crazy.
no other issues on other window, or anywhere else on the car aside from transmission slipping sometimes (another issue that will be addressed soon), battery voltage is still good. all of the issues seem linked to the actuators' functions.
your knowledge is much appreciated

 

I have not read all your post but I gave up on the jag set up and fitted aftermarket solenoids ..the 2 remotes controller and 4 solenoids was $22 ..it works fine .even the indicators flash when I lock it .
I have original controller in place and the windows work as they should

 

do you have a thread or something on this in more detail? would you say it is worth the time? benefits etc outside of just the big price saving
thanks

 

When I got my 97 xk8 the windows did not work but the dealer gave me a new drivers door controller ...all was fine for 6 months then it started to bounce. I changed micro switches etc and in the end I could get the lock out in 6 min. I could never get it right and resorted to using the key with the solenoid mechanically disconnected ( you cannot disconnect the three wires or the windows dont work ?? ) The key is a Pain in the *** as you have to get the ignition on fast to stop the alarm.
So I fitted the cheap kit solenoid and controller in the drivers door . fits easy you just need a 5mm bolt and a drill ..take power from the door module. Works great even flashes the indicators BUT it is only simulating the key so you have to disable the alarm without disabling the horn..One diode in the fuse box and thats done.
I am going to fit another to the passenger door but its too cold now in UK to work on it..Biggest problem is getting the wires from door to door ..probably have to go under the carpet. Will take photo when I have the lock in my hand.