Hello, I'm working on my 1997 xk8. My driver's window won't roll up or down, and the drivers side lock will not lock automatically when in gear. I have tried resetting the computer and that didn't work. The window was up and it started working so I lowered it to reset it and now it will not go back up. When I press the window up it down button it just clicks (like the click of resetting the window).

To make things more confusing... Sometimes when I unlock the door with the key the locks just cycle. Unfortunately I got the car with only one key and no fob.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. This has been a dream car of mine since I was a kid.

 

Jack, cycling locks = 1st sign of low battery charge. Can you put a charger on it and see if it fixes?

Stuck window. This happened to me once. Turned out that a chunk of pebble sized broken glass found its way into the channel. Yes I had broken the window a yr or 2 before that. Lets look a little deeper first.
Do other windows work ok?

Do you hear a thermal circuit breaker click a second or 2 after pressing up or down on driver window?

Step outside car. Close door. Key in door. Turn and hold key fully clockwise, do windows drop? Drivers? (Drop means open, friend if you'd have entered location i could describe which way to turn key more accurately you in NA or UK?)

The window motor is driven by driver door control module, doesn't appear to be separately fused.

Now I should have started with this question: the window isn't cockeyed (tilted) right? If yes DON'T FORCE it (remember i said i broke my window once? Guess how ;-)

Trying to get a handle on if the motor is straining or just inoperative, that's why I asked about the noises. Your window has a thermal circuit breaker, if the motor is on but can't move, the thermal click is heard within seconds.

I mentioned the key in door to eliminate a defective door switch. Come on back with answers / feedback, we can proceed from there. You may have to take off the door card - don't worry super easy.

Let me get this out of the way: DON'T put your hand inside the door with battery connected. You need all your fingers!

Look 4ward to hearing back from you.

John

 

Jack i should read more carefully.

Yes you hear the circuit breaker. Something is blocking movement. Lets go inside and look.

Take door card off. Tools: Phillips screwdriver. Got a dental pick? If no, we will use small flat blade screwdriver or the pointy tip of pocket knife. Explained below.

Unscrew the door handle screws. Remove rubber insert, unscrew the screw straight down below it. Now we disconnect window switch.
Gently slide flat blade behind the vertical vinyl rectangle underneath the rear edge of switch wood surround. Its attached with a fir tree (just ask if unfamiliar with term). Pry back to release.

Now remove Phillips screw holding wood surround. Removed wood surround. Gently lift window switch out. Unplug wire harness.

Now move to door handle. See that circular plug hiding a screw, back center of plastic? Pry it out. If you look hard see notch - here's where dental pick would help remove that plug. Unscrew screw below it.

As I recall all screws are now out, here's where we unfastened the pressed on door card. Move to upper front vertical edge of card. Pry it back, get fingers underneath, pull back. Move to lower edge of that front side. Pull back to release.
Now lower vertical edge of rear side. Careful - the puddle light is still wired to the door. The puddle light has a U shaped safely wire preventing the connector from shaking lose. Get something under the silver safety wire wire to raise it and release the connector. JUST WATCH OUT! That safety wire wants to launch itself into the weeds. Just don't let it.

Now release rear upper edge, take door card off. Note how top edge hooks into the door for reassembly. Oh yes don't forget to unhook memory buttons wire too.

Look at back of door card, see the plastic friction connectors? See why we call them fir trees? BTW if any broke, replacement available any auto parts store. Use yourcwire cutters to shape the head to fit nicely.

Try to close window while watching now. Is regulator trying to move? If yes, next we look for obstruction in window channel.

If no movement you may need new regulator. Cheap on used market, easy to install.

I'll stop here invite questions or feedback.

John

 

The door locks cycling back and forth can be an indication of a faulty microswitch inside the door latch assembly, usually in the driver's door but it can also happen in the passenger's door. Quite a few of us have had to deal with this issue over the years so it is well-documented here on the forum....

 

Hi John!

Thank you for the help so far. I should have put in a little more detail. I am in the US. And I have already pulled off the door card. The regulator doesn't seem to want to move at all. I only hear the click when I press the window up or down button. I had initially thought window regulator but with the lock issues I was wondering if they were somehow connected. The click I hear sounds like it comes from around the door latch area. But maybe my hearing is going out lol.

I did have an issue previously where the drivers door handle was loose and the key wouldn't always unlock the door. I tightened that and did not have any issues until now (the window not working and locks cycling).

And yes, I had to chase the clip for the light. That thing took off across the world.

 

Allright. . . Lets prove faulty regulator.

1. Check for 12volts at regulator connector when window switch pressed. Its been a few years, can't picture it, but you cab easily get to the connector right?

2. 12volts no = we trace the circuit problem
12volts yes = faulty regulator ( as I recall you said no noise movement reaction from regulator right?)

Grab a replacement regulator:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17490274000...SABEgJap_D_BwE

Jack, come back if you think there's any reason to test for a jammed window, or when you're ready to take the regulator out. I / we can provide a few tips that'll save you time & frustration.

John

 

Thank you for the help. Had some other things come up so I had to sideline the car for a bit. I'll be ordering the regulator today and will keep you posted when it arrives.

 

Back out working on the car. Waiting for a friend to come test the voltage. In the mean time I located part of the clicking I hear. I can actually even feel it. It's within the door and I haven't pulled that all apart yet (new territory for me so I want to be careful). But I did kind of grab a picture. Can someone help tell me what this is and why it would be clicking when I try the window?

 

I had similar problems and it was the round plug that send the wires between the door and the car... I unscrewed the plug, pulled it apart and sprayed some cleaner in and everything has worked perfectly since. I had previously noticed that my window and power mirror would work if I had the door ALL the way open, but with the door closed those items were dead... Open the door and find the connector for that door that comes out of the car and drops straight down and then into the door. It'll take all of two minutes to take apart and spray electrical cleaner to see if that is contributing to your issues.

 

It is the Door Control Module. I haven't actually seen inside one yet, but I supect the clicking you hear will be internal relays operating.

Check the door pillar connector first as suggested. If you do go inside the door card, heed Johnken's warning around the window mechanism as it will make an excellent finger guillotine. Safer to roll the window part way down and disconnect the battery. Do this in any case if you intend to unplug any module.

The 97 Electrical Guide is available from member Gus' site of everything here:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1997.pdf