Here's a pic of my key fob. It's a speaker, not a light. However I just tried it and pushing the button causes the headlights to turn on. I didn't know it did that!

 

Cool...as long as it flips on the headlights you should be fine. Looks like you have a 'special edition' remote. The trunk symbol is also different.

 

I think what you may have is a Jag remote with a Ford replacement button panel. I have seen this before.

 

WhiteXKR, I'm trying to figure out how you're going to do this without reprogramming the BPM. I don't see an output that is specific to that button. The headlights come on, so you could use that to trigger a relay, but what happens when you turn on the headlights while driving?

And then there's the whole issue with the convertible cover. I've accidentally pressed the "up" button when the cover was in place. I could just release the button to stop the top from moving. But if you're going to be doing it with time-delay relays, then what happens when you accidentally press the button when the cover is on? Will there be a way to interrupt it, or will you have to race around the car trying to unsnap the cover before something breaks?

I'm not trying to shoot down the idea, I just want to make sure everything has been thought through.

 

The ideal way would be to hack the BPM, but we are talking a very serious time investment here....and I still have a day job

Good question. The answer is to only enable this remote control function when the ignition is off....which is easy with the normally closed contacts of a relay.


Excellent question. The solution is to logcally 'AND' the time delayed convertible top triggered output with the headlight 'on' control, since a second press of the alarm/headlight button turns off the headlight. There is a small catch to this however...the remote button invoked headlight timer shuts off automatically after 25 seconds. This may or may not be enough time to cycle the top...it is right on the hairy edge. If the cycle is not finished, you will have to punch the headlight button a second time to finish it....really not that big a deal.

Let me know if you think of other gotcha's...I am trying to get this right the first time.

 

In English the logic goes something like this:

If Ignition is off AND Headlight is on AND Door open is pressed THEN trigger time delay to lower top and lockout door close for duration of cycle as long as headlight remains on.

If Ignition is off AND Headlight is on AND Door close is pressed THEN trigger time delay to raise top and lockout door open for duration of cycle as long as headlight remains on.

 

Will there be a puree setting too....LOL!!

Sign me up for one of those when your are done!!!

 

I'm on the fence on this mod... it could be nice, but only if it doesn't cause any problems. And I would hate to have to keep pressing the button to keep it working... and to have one button press open/close it, that would have me paranoid putting the keys in my pocket, especially if I'm in the immediate vicinity of my remote but not visibly paying attention to the car.

 

Can't wait, can't wait, can't wait.

 

The proposal is two button presses, lights then open. I don't think I have ever accidentally unlocked the car or opened the boot when I have put the keys in my pocket, so I think its highly unlikely you could hit both buttons in sequence by mistake and come back and find an unlocked car with the roof open.

 

I think it is a great idea. I am delighted to see the Reverend on the forum. I have been concerned about him since I believe he is in NC where bad weather struck this week. Reverend are you and your wife...and car (the one without nasty dark areas) safe and sound?

 

Quite clear indeed.

Speaking just for me ... how about a variant where only the lower-top function is present, and not the the raise-top?

I'm worried about the case where the top cover is in place and raise-top is selected. I'll screw that up eventually. Also, the utility for me is to get the top open when approaching the car on one of those days where the interior will be about a bazillion degrees F.


This stuff may be of some interest:

- For raise-top, the 25 sec. is indeed cutting it close. With voltage reduction in place, too short for sure. (an OR with a ~ 35 sec. timer? I know ... anything's possible with time and money.)

- For lower-top, when you get over the "hump" where the weight of the top then wants to move it toward the open position ... if you remove power the top just falls harmlessly into the open position. (Some sort of orifice in the hydraulics to control rate of movement, I think, because it falls at a nice, controlled rate.) Point being, for this reason, I think 25 sec. will work fine for the lower-top operation.

Good for you for working all this out.

 

Darn...not enough buttons on the remote.

 

It will always be two button presses in sequence to raise or lower.

At most, you will have to tap the headlight button ONE additional time to finish the cycle.

 

Great idea. I'll write it up so you can choose this as a build option for about half the cost.

A second press of the headlight button will halt operation for emergencies like this.

I have made the same observations. It looks like lowering the top will work within the 25 seconds without any additional press of the headlight button. Raising the top takes longer, and will require one additional tap of the headlight button to finish the cycle.

 

Just occurred to me ...

For someone running with voltage reduction, this mod, in raise-top mode, would only be compatible if the top had passed the engine-off raise-top test, rather than requiring engine-on to raise the top. I think there might be some cases like this out there. (Test_point comes to mind; Tom?) This is pretty important beacuse we don't want the pump dead-heading for an extended period, unable to close the latch, and the owner presumably might not be close enough to the car to hear what was going on.

Lower-top should not be a problem.

For such a car, a slightly lower resistance could be used for voltage reduction. One way to do this would be to wire a 1.0 ohm resistor in parallel with the existing 0.2 ohms. Result ~ 0.16 ohms.

This is not an issue for someone running a relief valve or (shudder) a stock convertible top hydraulic system.

Now we're into the arena where mods have to work with other mods. It happens.

 

Dennis, great idea...opening is usually where I would find this feature so useful. I'm getting into the good habit of putting the boot cover on when its down, so the 'auto up' isn't as attractive to me...it'll only make me lazy and the headliner would need more frequent cleanings...not fun.

BTW, i've more than once set off my panic alarm when putting my keys into my pocket. But, this Reverend Whitedib remote option is worth the risk. Ok, someone needs to find a better name.

 

WXKR you know I want one. Grrrrrrrreat idea! Put me on the list.

 

I'm happy for an option for just dropping the top, because I don't see much convenience in raising the top via remote. In most cases you will be ready to leave the car and put the top up, so it isn't hard to use the button to raise the roof before you leave. Of course I guess one could make the argument that he is putting the cover away in the trunk and want the roof to be raising at the same time.

I'm holding off on the rear window mod until instructions for this mod are done since I'll be installing them at the same time anyway and I can possibly save on shipping for parts if I can combine orders.


Every week lately it is like Christmas on the forum here. Here is a suggestion, hit the lock button 3 times and have the car valet park itself in a far, protected corner so it is safe from door dings, but I don't have to walk as far

 

Your turn Rev.