Apart from using the tool from Jaguar, which i cant seem to get hold of. Could anyone offer any further advice regarding locking the cam shaft, in order to undo the main crank pulley bolt?

I've heard people say you can lock the torque the converter, but i'm not sure what or where they mean. Can anyone shed any light?

Cheers

Ian

 

Do you mean locking the crankshaft?
If so Bob suggests a chain wrench in post #7 you shouldn't use the crank locating tool as you can damage the slot in the torque convertor.

Take a look here for some home made tools ideas. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-tools-51211/

 

This is the tool you are looking for, 303-531
You will need to jack up the car or better yet just put it on ramps.
On the front of the bell housing there is a rubber plug. remove the plug and it will expose the flywheel. On the flywheel there may or may not be a triangular mark pointing to the slot that this plug will slid into. In order to install this you will need to remove the sensor directly above the plug opening. You will need a torx bit to get this sensor out. Using the same bolt secure the locking tool. Using this locking tool will also bring the cams correct so the flats can be locked down.

Its more mind numbing than it is hard. I just got thru doing this very thing
lots of stuff to remove and replace. I bought everything I thought I would need and extra's. Gaskets, grommets, chains, guides, upper tensioners, lower tensioners, crank seal, o rings, purple permatex, grey silicone, VVT seals, ..........

I'll see if I still have the pics of how I marked everything so it would all go back together just as it came off.

The first pic shows a horizontal line I put on the two cam gears. I used a steel rule. I layed it on the timing cover and marked both gears on both sides. I did this before I took the timing cover off. I did this so I could get the gears correctly back where they came from. Since the heads are in line with the timing cover you can eveball the gears back in line.

The second pic shows how I marked the top of the cam tool as it related to the cam gears and chain links. I marked the tooth of the cam gear with some white paint. Wipe off the oil first so the paint has something to stick to. I had 6 links from both gears on the smaller chain and 24 links from the mark down to the crank. Before I took this apart I took a picture so I would remember exactly how the links hit my painted marks.

The last picture is where I marked the crank.

The passenger side is the easiest. The driver side requires another set of hands for me only because I was trying to put it all back together exactly as it came apart. You need two sets of hands because of clearance issues that are not on the passenger side.

I also learned that the upper tensioners are different. the new metal ones are marked with an LB and RB. LB is left bank Driver side
RB is right bank Passenger side. I learned this the hard way and had to take it apart to correct.

Don.t worry about the marked lines and paint. before you button it all back up just moisted a rag with fresh oil and wipe it away. I also brushed all the new components with a bath of new oil before I closed it up as a pre-lube so on start it is not dry.

This is my 2 cents worth.

 

Yep, sorry. Thanks

 

Haha - spent a couple of minutes on this myself on Saturday trying to verify it was correct. I did see the L and R on them and had to make 100% sure it was L = Drivers, R = Passenger

 

The tool in post #7, maybe i've misunderstood, but i need to remove the main crank bolt and pulley in order to get the front cover of the engine off. Which means i wont be able to get this tool onto the lower crank cogs??

In the link you have very kindly given me,it shows a flatted off bolt, that i assume the user is putting into the same hole that the crank setting tool goes into. Will this be adequate to lock the crankshaft??

This is the only bit stumping me. Thanks to everyone for bearing with me on this.

I think i'm going to have to resort to a pry bar shoved into the flywheel. I simply haven't got the budget to spend ANOTHER 150 quid on more tools that i'll only use one. Can someone offer me the risks associated with this method?

 

I'll take the one out I'm using and do a drawing for you. You should be able to make a plug. All you will need is a short length of round bar stock and a grinder to grind some flats on the sides. Then a drill press so you can drill a hole thru it to set a pin in there so it wont fall into the bell housing.

Here is a drawing I'll post the micrometer readings tonight for dimensions A thru D. The E diameter is what ever the diameter of the cotter pin is going to be. I would use something 6mm in dia. You could hold it in place with a fender washer.

 

You, my friend, are an absolute legend!! And that is a safe method of holding the crank still, whilst undoing the main crank pulley bolt?

Thank you.

 

This is what I used along with the cam locking tools on both cams. I'm in the middle of putting it back together.

Well I changed the drawing to a more correct facsimile of the part. I just got thru with this drawing. You might want to begin with a hardened hex bolt that has a smooth shoulder as close to 16.63mm. You should be able to print this pdf out full size and check the dimensions to make sure they measure correct. I checked the part against this drawing and it is spot on.

The torx you need to remove the sensor is a t30. You will just need the bit and use a box end spanner to remove the bolt. No real room for any thing else.

 

The tool Bob mentions is wrapped around the pulley to stop rotation with rubber to protect the pulley.
Jaguar warn specifically against using the cramk positioning tool to lock the crank while removing the bolt.

Bob has posted a couple of TSB's which may be of interest here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-99-jag-38035/

 

I'm going to make this thing tonight and try to get it welded tomorrow to use to hold the crank. I cannot afford the Jag tools at over $479.00. I'm working with someone smarter tan me to let me know it it will hold up to get to the 275 ft lb /375 nm.

If this works it will have cost me under $30.00 material. 2"dia nipple $3.68 2" coupler $3.75. Unistrut free I have some already. My labor Free. the rest of the money goes to beer for the welder dude.

 

Good Evening Everyone.

Ok, I've sorted the Brakes, done the upper and lower tensioners and all the chains. Also sorted the upper bushes and the all the gaskets. Coolant and oil changes also sorted..........

However.......

I've fitted the new water pump, and i'm worried now, the old pump has a rubber o ring mounted onto the snout of the pump. Where as the new water pump only has the paper gasket. The metal snout appears to go into the engine without any seal? Is this right? Are the newer pumps sealed tight with just the paper gasket or do i need to strip it back out and source a rubber o ring.

Additionaly to this, a 'spare' rubber o ring came with the thermostat housing, it doesnt appear to be needed any where in the thermostat housing, i'm wondering if this is the one for the water pump.

Cheers

Ian

 

Is it for the cap on the thermostat housing? There are two O-rings in the thermostat housing, one at the base and one for the cap.

 

I have the ribbed one in place at the base of the thremostat housing and the small one in the cap. The third o-ring, I think is for a dofferant type of thermostat, after researching last night.

Any idea about whether my waterpump needs an o-ring??

 

I have the ribbed one in place at the base of the thremostat housing and the small one in the cap. The third o-ring, I think is for a dofferant type of thermostat, after researching last night.

Any idea about whether my waterpump needs an o-ring??

 

Ok, done about 200 miles since we did the work and all seems to be fine.

I am getting a slight noise on cold starts, about 1-2 seconds or 'clatter'. I assume this is the oil pressure building up into the tensioners? Is this normal? I've read a few posts regarding 'cheap' oil filters causing this so i may get a Jag oe one and see how that helps.

It drives nice and tight now with the new front bushes. Still tramlines a little, but I'm putting that down to the 18inch alloys and low profile tires.

Just wanted to say a huge thank you to all that contributed to this thread.

 

If you have access to an air compressor and a good impact wrench, the damper bolt will come out nicely without having to restrain the crankshaft.

 

The white or almost clear impellers are high temperature dielrin and will not pit or corrode due to electrolytic or galvanic corrosion. They are also much less susceptible to so-called erosion corrosion from any particles entrained in the recirculating liquid, due to the dielrin mechanical properties offering a less elastic collision to particles. They are not affected by changes in pH. They also resist chemical attack and resist cavitation. The metal impellers offer none of these advantages, and have the unfavorable advantages instead. Just do not overtighten the impellerr attachment nut, as the plastic impellers can be damaged at the hub in that way.