Engine stalled and now won’t start
#21
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You might also find this an interesting read, though its a bit late for yours now.............
Sorry somehow posted wrong link. BRB with proper one.
Here you go. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1191520
Sorry somehow posted wrong link. BRB with proper one.
Here you go. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1191520
I cleaned the throttle body into not working?
#22
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Maybe the car has forgotten the idle pre-set. There is a procedure for it to re-learn but I just do the hard reset, touch negative and positive cables, or leave battery disconnected over night, and car seems to reset, but needs to relearn.
Don’t worry if car over-revs when you reconnect and start... that’s normal
Don’t worry if car over-revs when you reconnect and start... that’s normal
#23
#24
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I was hoping it wouldn’t come to the fuel pump. For some reason it costs $600+ for my car.
I didn’t have a fuel pressure gauge with me, but I pushed on the Schrader valve pin and the fuel dribbled out instead of shooting out with the key in position II.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 10-26-2019 at 12:48 PM.
#25
#26
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Normally, there is that shrader (tire) valve somewhere on the rail. Should have a (small) green cap on it. Some have reported not having it, though. With precaution (rags, etc.), you can depress the center pin and verify there is pressure. 55psi is over 3 bar, so it should spray pretty good. If it does, maybe you can flush the rail some, and then add fresh gas to the tank.
You can also crank with the gas pedal to the floor to vent the cylinders. Do you smell any fresh gas through the exhaust?
Check the ground strap under the engine. Although if your starter works, it is probably fine.
Check that immobilisation relay in the driver side foot well in case it tripped, somehow. Not sure you can crank if it tripped.
Check the battery connections in the trunk, including the power block near it.
You can also crank with the gas pedal to the floor to vent the cylinders. Do you smell any fresh gas through the exhaust?
Check the ground strap under the engine. Although if your starter works, it is probably fine.
Check that immobilisation relay in the driver side foot well in case it tripped, somehow. Not sure you can crank if it tripped.
Check the battery connections in the trunk, including the power block near it.
Maybe the car has forgotten the idle pre-set. There is a procedure for it to re-learn but I just do the hard reset, touch negative and positive cables, or leave battery disconnected over night, and car seems to reset, but needs to relearn.
Don’t worry if car over-revs when you reconnect and start... that’s normal
Don’t worry if car over-revs when you reconnect and start... that’s normal
Any ideas?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 10-26-2019 at 01:29 PM.
#27
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I was perusing the Non - OEM interchangeable parts thread and found this:
However, his is a 2004 XK8, whereas mine is a 2004 XKR. That means his fuel pump module is C2N1146, whereas mine is C2N1147. Is there much of a difference between both parts? What problems will retrofitting a pump that is 5 psi over spec cause? The cost of the pump at O'Reilly's is $83.99, but I'd have to get it shipped to Puerto Rico.
After much reading in the forums, I learned that the XK8 pump is not compatible with the XKR. I will search for a used pump if possible.
I also learned that running the car until very low (as I often did) is a sure fire way to burn the pump.
After much investigation, I found this pump suitable spec wise for replacement status on 2004 and up xk8's only thing out of line is 5 pound increase on psi output.It a import direct oem replacement part # E16021 and strainer that will fit into module (with some tweaking,bending) Precision fuel pumps S13005 Both on the shelf at O'Reillys Auto Parts. Its not a direct plug N go the power leads need to be changed out due to a different clip in that powers the fuel pump. Upon replacing my original i found the + connection looser than a wet goose! so the new clip was appreciated.
However, his is a 2004 XK8, whereas mine is a 2004 XKR. That means his fuel pump module is C2N1146, whereas mine is C2N1147. Is there much of a difference between both parts? What problems will retrofitting a pump that is 5 psi over spec cause? The cost of the pump at O'Reilly's is $83.99, but I'd have to get it shipped to Puerto Rico.
After much reading in the forums, I learned that the XK8 pump is not compatible with the XKR. I will search for a used pump if possible.
I also learned that running the car until very low (as I often did) is a sure fire way to burn the pump.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 10-26-2019 at 03:37 PM.
#28
#29
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Did you read the link I put to bore wash?
If you use the WOT, depending on what type of engine you have, and hold that down whilst cranking it should lubricate the bores again for you. Seal them and provide compression.
Footnote. From reading the topic from the start I noticed you have a 2004 XKR? It should work for you.
If you use the WOT, depending on what type of engine you have, and hold that down whilst cranking it should lubricate the bores again for you. Seal them and provide compression.
Footnote. From reading the topic from the start I noticed you have a 2004 XKR? It should work for you.
Last edited by frankc; 10-26-2019 at 05:47 PM.
#30
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#31
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Did you read the link I put to bore wash?
If you use the WOT, depending on what type of engine you have, and hold that down whilst cranking it should lubricate the bores again for you. Seal them and provide compression.
Footnote. From reading the topic from the start I noticed you have a 2004 XKR? It should work for you.
If you use the WOT, depending on what type of engine you have, and hold that down whilst cranking it should lubricate the bores again for you. Seal them and provide compression.
Footnote. From reading the topic from the start I noticed you have a 2004 XKR? It should work for you.
All 8 of them??? What are the odds of that?
#32
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partially clogged injectors will keep a car from starting. Deposits build up, fine debris will get past a fuel filter. It happens. Many V-8’s won’t even try to start on less than 4 or 5 cylinders.
is that your issue ? I don’t know. But no gassy smell is evident . Where is it getting stopped ?
Z
is that your issue ? I don’t know. But no gassy smell is evident . Where is it getting stopped ?
Z
#33
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partially clogged injectors will keep a car from starting. Deposits build up, fine debris will get past a fuel filter. It happens. Many V-8’s won’t even try to start on less than 4 or 5 cylinders.
is that your issue ? I don’t know. But no gassy smell is evident . Where is it getting stopped ?
Z
is that your issue ? I don’t know. But no gassy smell is evident . Where is it getting stopped ?
Z
#34
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New fuel filter, right ? So that’s out of the mix.
Z
#35
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would that condition also possibly be related to a fuel pump that is not putting out full pressure, or partially clogged fuel line(s) ? Fuel lines are relatively easy to blow out and see if any blockage comes out of them.
New fuel filter, right ? So that’s out of the mix.
Z
New fuel filter, right ? So that’s out of the mix.
Z
#36
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usually the preferred direction is to blow against the flow of the fuel
#37
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Alright, so I disconnect after the fuel filter and from the fuel rail and blow from the fuel rail. Is there a risk of breaking the lines if I blow too hard and they’re clogged?
I’m thinking I need to remove the fuel tank and clean it out. What’s the best way to do this on a coupe?
#38
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Suggestions are all over the place on this.
1. You have determined that you are not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
2. Can you hear the pump running? If no, check the fuel pump relay.
3. Relay good and pump not running? Disconnect the lead and verify you have power to the pump.
4. No power, find and fix. Power is good = pump is bad.
The odds you have a clogged fuel line are virtually nil. Clogged pump filter is equally unlikely unless you are getting horrible quality gas.
1. You have determined that you are not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
2. Can you hear the pump running? If no, check the fuel pump relay.
3. Relay good and pump not running? Disconnect the lead and verify you have power to the pump.
4. No power, find and fix. Power is good = pump is bad.
The odds you have a clogged fuel line are virtually nil. Clogged pump filter is equally unlikely unless you are getting horrible quality gas.
#39
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Suggestions are all over the place on this.
1. You have determined that you are not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
2. Can you hear the pump running? If no, check the fuel pump relay.
3. Relay good and pump not running? Disconnect the lead and verify you have power to the pump.
4. No power, find and fix. Power is good = pump is bad.
The odds you have a clogged fuel line are virtually nil. Clogged pump filter is equally unlikely unless you are getting horrible quality gas.
1. You have determined that you are not getting fuel to the fuel rail.
2. Can you hear the pump running? If no, check the fuel pump relay.
3. Relay good and pump not running? Disconnect the lead and verify you have power to the pump.
4. No power, find and fix. Power is good = pump is bad.
The odds you have a clogged fuel line are virtually nil. Clogged pump filter is equally unlikely unless you are getting horrible quality gas.
I can hear the pump running, however, not from inside the passenger compartment, I can only hear it from inside the trunk on its initial burst. Afterwards not much more can be heard even if I leave the key in the II position. I think the pump may be weak.
#40
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Am i missing something here, but I think that the preoccupation with the fuel supply seems to defy logic?
To my way of thinking, and forgive me if I am wrong but if the car ran above idle, and you kept it alive, then the pump is delivering more fuel than is required for idle. Which would to my mind establish that it must be working satisfactorily. I mean why would it clog up on a run, that I don't get. Left for a year without running, i get, but hot and running?
So the question to ask is what is the difference between and idle and running engine? The answer has to be the mixture of air to gas of 14:1. When you open up the throttle the ratio becomes less significant, that is the bleed level for idle becomes less critical, so my logic would point to an air leak, or the the computer for fuel metering, or MAF, thinks there's less air going in than there actually is. So either the computer doesn't calculate the correct fuel metering, for whatever reason, and therefore the engine cannot idle?
To my way of thinking, and forgive me if I am wrong but if the car ran above idle, and you kept it alive, then the pump is delivering more fuel than is required for idle. Which would to my mind establish that it must be working satisfactorily. I mean why would it clog up on a run, that I don't get. Left for a year without running, i get, but hot and running?
So the question to ask is what is the difference between and idle and running engine? The answer has to be the mixture of air to gas of 14:1. When you open up the throttle the ratio becomes less significant, that is the bleed level for idle becomes less critical, so my logic would point to an air leak, or the the computer for fuel metering, or MAF, thinks there's less air going in than there actually is. So either the computer doesn't calculate the correct fuel metering, for whatever reason, and therefore the engine cannot idle?