Error Code P1384
#1
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Happy New Year to everyone; My '99 XK8 Convertible 4.0 (Base Model) has 97,000mi. This code came up last week. This code is for the right bank VVT solenoid. The car is running great. No different than before the code. Before I remove the valve cover to clean and test the solenoid I would like to test the electrical connection to the solenoid. Does anyone know the amount of power that should be reading at the connector? I want to eliminate any electrical problems first.
Thank you in advance for your help
Mitch
Thank you in advance for your help
Mitch
#2
Join Date: Apr 2014
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Try hooking up a 12V test light across the VVT solenoid terminals, then start the engine.
It should either be extinguished or glowing dimly at idle, and glow more brightly as you increase the revs.
Alternatively, with the engine stopped, apply 12V across the solenoid terminals (disconnect the lead from the ECM first). You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking. As a further test, you can repeat this with the engine idling, in which case you should hear the engine note change - the idle wil become rougher.
This will confirm or otherwise that the cam is responding to instruction from the ECM. Try this and report back.
It should either be extinguished or glowing dimly at idle, and glow more brightly as you increase the revs.
Alternatively, with the engine stopped, apply 12V across the solenoid terminals (disconnect the lead from the ECM first). You should be able to hear the solenoid clicking. As a further test, you can repeat this with the engine idling, in which case you should hear the engine note change - the idle wil become rougher.
This will confirm or otherwise that the cam is responding to instruction from the ECM. Try this and report back.
#3
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#5
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Be aware that the ECM can be faulty. (failed output semiconductor)
I had a customer (another repair shop) that actually ran 2 new wires to the VVT actuator and the fault remained. (not a harness fault)
The fault would not clear and there was no power to the actuator.
I replaced the ECM and performed an 'immobilization-setup'. The fault did not recur so I called it 'fixed'.
I had a customer (another repair shop) that actually ran 2 new wires to the VVT actuator and the fault remained. (not a harness fault)
The fault would not clear and there was no power to the actuator.
I replaced the ECM and performed an 'immobilization-setup'. The fault did not recur so I called it 'fixed'.
#7
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Well, here's the latest. I tested both solenoids with a 12v battery. They both responded with a clicking sound. As it would happen. One of the plastic connectors to the right bank solenoid had become brittle from the yrs of heat off the motor just split a part. So now I'm trying to hunt down a connector. Unfortunately it is part of the main harness. I know their out of manufacture, so I have to get lucky and find a used one. Next step is to try a heavier weight oil as suggested in another thread. Will keep you posted.
Mitch
Mitch
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#8
#10
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Check this link, RockAuto: Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid Connector
It is not listed when searching on a '99, but, when pulled for an '03, the part comes up as compatible from '97 to '10. Go figure.
It is not listed when searching on a '99, but, when pulled for an '03, the part comes up as compatible from '97 to '10. Go figure.
The following 2 users liked this post by fmertz:
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#13
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Hey;
After testing the two solenoids which tested ok I decided to order a Jag oil filter and change to 10w-40 oil. While waiting for the filter I dropped the oil pan. It was very clean considering the has has 98,000mi. Cleaned the screen and installed new gasket. I had it out this morning and problem solved. Runs great. Nothing but straight power and kept pulling well past 80. One little bit of advice. When you get a new gasket. Look on the edges of the side that goes into the recess of the casting if there is any excess material from being made. Take time to remove this excess material. Makes it much easier to push the gasket all the way in. Cleaned everything with spray cleaner. Then used a silicone dry lube on the recess before installing the gasket. I put some Permatex silicone black gasket seal on the pan and tightened the bolts. I did the bolts first with rust breaking spray. Waited about 10min and with a steady pull all the bolts came right out.
Thanks to you all for your help
Mitch
After testing the two solenoids which tested ok I decided to order a Jag oil filter and change to 10w-40 oil. While waiting for the filter I dropped the oil pan. It was very clean considering the has has 98,000mi. Cleaned the screen and installed new gasket. I had it out this morning and problem solved. Runs great. Nothing but straight power and kept pulling well past 80. One little bit of advice. When you get a new gasket. Look on the edges of the side that goes into the recess of the casting if there is any excess material from being made. Take time to remove this excess material. Makes it much easier to push the gasket all the way in. Cleaned everything with spray cleaner. Then used a silicone dry lube on the recess before installing the gasket. I put some Permatex silicone black gasket seal on the pan and tightened the bolts. I did the bolts first with rust breaking spray. Waited about 10min and with a steady pull all the bolts came right out.
Thanks to you all for your help
Mitch
The following 2 users liked this post by rsdmitch7:
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