Ktmscott here in San Antonio Texas. Summer is here ,97 with high humidity on the way home yesterday and it keeps getting hotter usually peaking in August! Currently have a water leak in my cooling system(99 XK8) .i am gettin ready to overhaul the system with new hoses outlet pipe thermostat (170 degree)expansion tank and water pump, already have aluminum thermostat housing.
My question is has anyone gone to using the Evans waterless coolant. Reading up on it it seems to be the ticket for hot weather cooling. Far less pressure and expansion in the system with lower operating temps. Any experience out there? Thanks for the help,advice in advance, Scott in sweaty south Texas!

 

Do a search. The question has been asked many times.
it's snake oil.

 

Well, it clearly isn't snake oil, which is a rather dismissive way to describe something that you just don't want to use yourself.

I don't use it, but it is a valid coolant, that many people do use, and has the advantage of running at much lower pressure than water-based coolant. There are pros and cons, as there are with pretty much anything in life.

 

[QUOE=bladerunner919;2075485],,,,,

I don't use it, but it is a valid coolant, that many people do use, and has the advantage of running at much lower pressure than water-based coolant.

Absolutely false. It expands at exactly the same rate as conventional coolant. Do some research.






.[/QUOTE]

 

without getting into the scientific claims for Evans, I can tell you in simple English why you CAN'T use it.

It is NOT compatible with any known antifreeze product.

Just draining your radiator and hoses is not going to cut it. The engine block must be 100% free of an antifreeze mix. The ONLY way to achieve that is going to be taking out the engine and disassembling it down to the block.

Who is willing to do that ???

I put the Evans product in a few newly overhauled engines for some customers a few years ago. They were not impressed by it's performance. Zero gain in reduction of coolant temperature and zero performance gains.

If you want a slight reduction in coolant temperature, then as long as you have no danger of freezing weather, use 100% distilled water with Water Wetter. That is a product that works, is inexpensive, and using it with 100% water it will lower the operating temperature by 5% to 10%. It will lubricate the water pump as well. Most cars which have a slight overheating issue, 5-10% lower temperature is all that's needed. And if there's still a bit of antifreeze left in the system after draining , no worries. Water Wetter + distilled water is 100% compatible with all types of antifreeze. You certainly can use it with a 50/50 antifreeze mix, but the best results are with 100% distilled water.

Z

 

Have you ever used EVANS??????????

i have and it was used for 11yrs without any problems!!
ron

 

I have put it in several cars at the request of the owners . All in engines that had been torn down completely to ensure that zero coolant relmained in the block. The directions for Evens clearly state that all antifreeze needs to be removed from the coolant system before adding Evans. Or you have to use Evans prep fluid at an additional cost of $25 above the Evans cost of $100 for 2 gallons. Even using the special proprietary Evans prep fluid will not eliminate all antifreeze, which in turn limits the Evans effectiveness. Some systems may need more than 2 gallons of the Evans coolant.

All owners of cars I put it in agreed it provided zero improvement over using just water and water wetter, or using an antifreeze mix. In my view Evans is a solution in search of a problem. After 20+ years of using water plus water wetter I don't see the need for a product that costs twice as much as name brand antifreeze, doesn't help overheating issues, and requires draining the block to be fully effective.

I'm happy it's worked well for you, but am unsure what difficulties you'd been encountering that prompted the switch. From my experience the Evans costs too much and delivers too little.

ymmv.

Z

 

Every since I was a Kid, a long time ago! Someone has been trying to find something better than Anti-Freeze and Water.....So far no one has beat a 50/50 mix in Texas...Now up North, as we say! You may need 60/40 or even more but here 50/50 with a little Bottle of Water-Wetter and your good....You Guy's can try all those other ideas that you want but so far I haven't seen nor heard of anything better. (period)

Billy Clyde in Houston

 

Love it on my setup actually, main reason was for extra protection considering the excessive powerlevels I have, but the side effects of a pressure less system and being so much less toxic are a very nice bonus!

Here is where I posted some info of my experiences and thoughts:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...oolant-123703/

 

here is what I've been using for about 15 years in many cars that had an occasional issue with puking some antifreeze out the overflow tube.

It's not deadly to pets, and they are not attracted to drink it anyway because it isn't sweet tasting like regular antifreeze. All car parts places carry it, or can easily order it. Doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Among the cars I've put it in is a vintage Shelby Cobra ( 427 cubic inch ), sporting twin superchargers and making 750 HP. Works like a charm,



Z

 

as mentioned in another thread, Evans has somewhat lower heat transfer ability and lower specific heat. any time the cooling capacity of the system is reduced the situation gets more into the reserve capacity that is designed into the system.

as for leaks and such when i replaced all hoses and connections, the stock parts were used. in ten or fifteen years when this must be repeated more robust and efficient options will be explored such as rigid pipe where possible and common clamp connections. this is not a high pressure system, so leaks are more age related wear.

FYI as incorrect advice has been given on occasion. the plastic header tank is not an expansion tank and should not have an air space under the cap. it should be filled to the top and the expansion tank in that nice convenient location in the right fender filled to roughly 3/4. if the system is sealed correctly, one should see the level in the expansion tank rise and fall as the engine heats and cools. i strongly suggest marking the level at cool or noting where it is. if it starts to drop, one has a leak, but the reserve in the expansion tank bought you time. on this or any car, never open the pressure cap, here on the header tank, when the engine is even warm as it can break the siphon and defeat the purpose of the expansion tank.

 

The Prestone looks as a really good suggestion if your prime criteria for a coolant is to reduce the toxic levels (which wasn't mine).

The engine you refer to is already known for much more hp capabilities, am sure it runs on many different coolant types.

There was no one around that could tell me that the design of my engine/car (basically designed for 420hp) could handle 700hp, I needed to build in more insurances.

 

something over looked here is,, Evans DONT boil into bubbles till 375/400F,, and if you are running your engine at those temps you have other troubles happening!

it is bubbles that cause coolant loss and dreaded hot spots that can lead to detonation and engine damage!
ron

 

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/tech...ling-point.pdf


just plain water under normal cooling system pressure won't boil until it's over 240 F. Add the recommended 50/50 antifreeze mix and now you have a coolant boiling point of over 255 F.

Those of us with the instrumentation to monitor actual coolant temperatures know that 199 F to 210 is all these engines will see when using a 50/50 antiffreeze solution. That's far below the boiling point of the 50.50 antifreeze mix, ensuring a wide safety margin against the well known boilover issues.

If someone feels the need for the Evans product and don't mind the extra preparation and cost, then by all means use it.

But it's a mystery to me what an Evans user hopes to achieve that isn't already being handled quite nicely by using the traditional recommended antifreeze.

Z

 

While the above may be true, this is more Hocus Pocus from Evans promoting stuff that makes no freaking difference. no engine would still be running at a coolant temperature of 375 or 400 degrees. It would long have seized well below those type of temperatures so you're still spending a ton of money on something that's of 0 benefit . the zero pressure aspect of the system is pure snake oil. Evans doesn't mention that the cooling system must be modified to avoid pressure increase as the coolant warms up. If you don't modify the system you'll still end up with the standard operating pressure of whatever your car is designed for


I can't believe anybody Falls for their hype.

 

One of the reasons I started to believe that (micro) gas bubbles on a tuned Jaguar engine could be a reality, was that RSR advised gaskets with little holes to allow gases to escape (if you know the engine you know where), not the least ones to ignore, or do you?

Even with the pressure cap on, the system does run at a lower pressure then with water, but why run it with pressure?

Here you are fully right though, to make it work pressure less, you need about 5 seconds to modify the pressure cap, I know, not for everyone to take on that task, so good for you to point that out!

 

As I said earlier, "No One has found anything better than 50/50 Water/Antifreeze in all these years!"

Billy Clyde

 

what is curious is that none of the major manufacturers has implemented this solution. especially since they are looking for more ways to eliminate maintenance schedule items. when my friend was a key tech for Honda he told me that they were developing an engine that was essentially sealed for 100K USA miles, including oil. the engine was to be a swap out or a situation where a major overhaul with everything was done at 100K. the specs called for the standard coolant. what did they know even with the knowledge of water-less coolant.

 

Evans has valuable properties, it’s not about what is a better coolant like some say, it all depends on your requirements/needs vs the properties certain products offer to select which fits the best,

As whitehat and others remarks, manufacturers design only for a certain age/usage and after that you are on your own. So, if you would stick with the original aged pipings/clamps and expansion tank (which is known to fail), then the Evans pressure less properties could become an option to consider, at least I would.

As you do change your hoses/clamps and tank to come back to original new car specs, I honestly can’t see a reason for switching to Evans, as the chances on pressure leaks are so small again for hopefully then a long time to come.

My 2 cents.

 

EVANS helped develop the product for the US military,BlackHawk Helos,, for cooling the Hydraulic systems that sometimes had failyers, from BUBBLES forming with other types of coolants.

controls would not react,, then overreact,, made precision landings dangerous!

works for me , except it is expensive!
my 4 cents!