First repairs but passengers seat won't recline
#1
First repairs but passengers seat won't recline
I managed my first repairs today. The headrests on both seats were no longer working so I fixed them. Nice to get them working again. Feels like I am getting to know the car.
I still however have an issue with the passenger's seat stuck in a fully reclined position.
The seat moves backwards and forwards, headrests work and lumbar control works. When I press the recline in one direction I hear a relay click and it sounds like the motor tries to move but then it stops.
I have checked the little micro switch and it seems OK.
I pulled fuse 1 and fuse 8 to try and reset the seat module.
Any suggestions?
I still however have an issue with the passenger's seat stuck in a fully reclined position.
The seat moves backwards and forwards, headrests work and lumbar control works. When I press the recline in one direction I hear a relay click and it sounds like the motor tries to move but then it stops.
I have checked the little micro switch and it seems OK.
I pulled fuse 1 and fuse 8 to try and reset the seat module.
Any suggestions?
The following users liked this post:
Pistnbroke (02-13-2023)
#2
I have had a look at the diagram and there is one change over relay in the switch pack for the tilt. I suggest you study the diagram and check the appropriate colour wires associated with that particular circuit. You may have to open the switch pack and check the relay ..it might have burnt contacts though the tilt is not used as much as the front/back movement.
As an emergency measure you may have to wind the motor driven rod by hand to use the car.
As an emergency measure you may have to wind the motor driven rod by hand to use the car.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (06-05-2024)
#3
Normally, it is the seat control module that suffered some damage. Best test is to swap the control modules between the driver and passenger seats and see if the problem "moves" with the module. The module is easy to unbolt, and the electrical connectors in the back present the usual challenges (stiff, seemingly stuck, locking tab). Resist the urge to use tools on the connectors.
If it turns out the module is the problem, it can generally be repaired. Replacement modules are either prohibitively expensive from Jaguar (if at all available) and need re-programming to the ECU on top of that. Used modules would likely be (or be near) suffering from the same damage, and possibly need programming too.
The core issue is that the circuit board rests on a hard plastic ledge that, over time, damage the underlying circuit tracks. The fix is to solder shunt wires to bypass the damages tracks.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
If it turns out the module is the problem, it can generally be repaired. Replacement modules are either prohibitively expensive from Jaguar (if at all available) and need re-programming to the ECU on top of that. Used modules would likely be (or be near) suffering from the same damage, and possibly need programming too.
The core issue is that the circuit board rests on a hard plastic ledge that, over time, damage the underlying circuit tracks. The fix is to solder shunt wires to bypass the damages tracks.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (06-05-2024)
#4
Thanks. This module had been replaced by the dealer when I purchased the car. The previous owner had already purchased a second hand one but had not installed it. Everything seems to function except the tilt seat back forward. Could it still need programming?
I was going to swap modules but saw the drivers module has been fixed in place with tie wraps.
I have been checking the usual suspects on the modules PCB and I think I have found one that has a break so I will solder on a shunt and see if I get more life tomorrow.
I was going to swap modules but saw the drivers module has been fixed in place with tie wraps.
I have been checking the usual suspects on the modules PCB and I think I have found one that has a break so I will solder on a shunt and see if I get more life tomorrow.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (06-05-2024)
#5
The following users liked this post:
Don B (06-05-2024)
#6
I can hardly believe it but I have repaired the module. The multimeter showed there was no more connection but even with a high powered magnifying glass I could not see the break. Soldered on a shunt wire and now the seat goes backward and forward! This gives so much satisfaction. Headrests done, seat now reclines. Now to wait for the seat buckle and parking sensor to arrive.
#7
The following users liked this post:
Rishi (02-14-2023)
Trending Topics
#8
#9
thanks. I checked that circuit too but it was still OK. I was tempted to put a shunt in anyway but now it’s all back in the car. The seats are fully operational including the heaters.
#10
Did the parking sensor today. When removing the bumper watch out for the 2 bolts sticking out at each end of the bumper, they could scratch your paint (don't ask!).
I would also advise removing all the electrical connectors from all the sensors to get the bumper completely free.
If the bumper is free its fairly simple to remove/replace a sensor. The sensor was only 25 euro and was an exact match. You do need to take the ring that holds the spring in place from the old sensor to the new one.
It is pretty heavy! I would suggest a few crates to rest the bumper one while getting all the connectors off.
I have a 2001 and the bumper mount is metal and very solid. No problem with getting the bolts free. I just had to lossen the exhaust mounts to get room to get the ratchet on it.
I had a strange problem. I had listened and found the sensor that was faulty. I replaced it and it still didn't work. When I took a closer look I saw that only 2 wires were connected. The third wire was missing. So I added a new piece of wire and now it works! It was 3 hours work instead of one because of the "missing" wire. I checked the "faulty" sensor and it does have a very high resistance (only registers on highest ohm range) so I guess it was faulty. It's odd because it really look line someone removed the wire. Maybe someone thought they were disabling it to get rid of the alarm each time you select reverse (or more accurately one per trip)?
I would also advise removing all the electrical connectors from all the sensors to get the bumper completely free.
If the bumper is free its fairly simple to remove/replace a sensor. The sensor was only 25 euro and was an exact match. You do need to take the ring that holds the spring in place from the old sensor to the new one.
It is pretty heavy! I would suggest a few crates to rest the bumper one while getting all the connectors off.
I have a 2001 and the bumper mount is metal and very solid. No problem with getting the bolts free. I just had to lossen the exhaust mounts to get room to get the ratchet on it.
I had a strange problem. I had listened and found the sensor that was faulty. I replaced it and it still didn't work. When I took a closer look I saw that only 2 wires were connected. The third wire was missing. So I added a new piece of wire and now it works! It was 3 hours work instead of one because of the "missing" wire. I checked the "faulty" sensor and it does have a very high resistance (only registers on highest ohm range) so I guess it was faulty. It's odd because it really look line someone removed the wire. Maybe someone thought they were disabling it to get rid of the alarm each time you select reverse (or more accurately one per trip)?
The following users liked this post:
Don B (06-05-2024)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)