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Good morning all, it's 7am and time to get cracking! I'm hoping I can tap into your collective wisdom for my next challenge...
What an AMAZING Christmas Present she is turning out to be. But still. Long road ahead.
90% of the time when I turn the key she will not spin over... If I jumper the relay,,, reliably and 100%of the time she will turn and as of yesterday YeeeeeHooooo, she'll fire right up. I'm seconds. Nice! But the key turn,,, not so much
I'm going after that today! That and the JGate issues I'm having. Seems to be misadjusted... I get P, N,R (she'll even move in R) and Drive (will not move in drive) to light up solidly on the GATE... no 5, 4, 3 and 2... When I go past 3(I think) I get a engine light and GEAR BOX FAULT... I will open up the JGate (again) and take a look...
I say JGate again. Where I think I messed up - on the JGate, in the rectangular plastic neutral switch box on the passengers RH side of the gate,,, a while back,,, I unfasted that,,, turned out the 10mm bolt holding the cable. On what would be the bottom side of the switch when connected to the gate was a big (in comparison to other bits and pieces) plastic housed slider. I'll send a picture. MY DUMB *** moved that slider without noting which "CLICK" was home... I messed up. Then, there are the micros... It's a puzzle, that thing... Guidance PLEASE if you're willing to offer it...
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated...
Thank you alllllllllll so much!
P171 could be a few things- most people have an air leak between the air box/ MAF and the throttle bottle at the accordion section of the air tunnel. Bit it could also be a fuel delivery problem and or a bad injector.
P057????
P1000 is just a warning that the system diagnostics have not complete a complete cycle - nothing to worry about
P171 could be a few things- most people have an air leak between the air box/ MAF and the throttle bottle at the accordion section of the air tunnel. Bit it could also be a fuel delivery problem and or a bad injector.
P057????
P1000 is just a warning that the system diagnostics have not complete a complete cycle - nothing to worry about
Yeah, thx Man... Honestly, I love this ****...
Found the leak. Plugged it. There was a nice change... What it ended up being was just not having buttoned everything up from the filter to the top of the throttle body... These cars are so sensitive...
Fixed the ECU cooling fan. Took it out and cleaned it up. Sings now.
None of the HVAC directionals work and I think the heater pump needs some attention... Doesn't look too hard to get at if I remove the coolant reservoir. I have a new head unit from another car... Are the Jag radios interchangeable?
0057 looks like an O2 sensor... I have lots of time so I think I'll just go ahead and replace it...
So I messed around with the JGate and got it back to where all the gears light up. Thing is it feels like something is wrong. Feels TERRIBLE when it's supposed to be falling into drive - and the release isn't working. For the life of me I cannot in my experimenting figure out how to straighten it out.
Car does go into reverse and wants to move. Goes into drive and wants to go... D just feels wrong tho.
There is this large odd plastic slider oriented on what would be the inside bottom of the P, N switch. Dumb *** me moved the slider 2weeks ago when I first dove into this and I don't remember WHERE it was in the beginning,,, or where it's supposed to be now... I'm thinking this is my problem. The whole JGate thing is so damn fiddly...
All the way forward, middle, back? Any information, what's it function at this point, would be a great help. See attached. This is the thing in both directions. Extreme L and R...
What is its function? All the way to the front - towards dash... The locator pin (above it) the PARK direction... All the way towards the rear (towards boot) Locator pin above it in the park position.
I attach a pic of the J Gate Module assembly (from terrysjag) which shows the linear switch you're holding (item27) and how it's assembled in the bottom of the J Gate Module gearbox system. I've not done any adjustment this particular bit, but looks to have lots of potential for fine adjustments.
Good luck.
BTW When you have time, can you explain how you got access to the ECM fan.
I attach a pic of the J Gate Module assembly (from terrysjag) which shows the linear switch you're holding (item27) and how it's assembled in the bottom of the J Gate Module gearbox system. I've not done any adjustment this particular bit, but looks to have lots of potential for fine adjustments.
Good luck.
BTW When you have time, can you explain how you got access to the ECM fan.
I kinda just moved right thru it but if I remember correctly (because the ECU and it's cover are not yet reassembled) I pulled off the cover, there is a little plastic mount (be careful, it's fragile to the point of poor design, especially in the cold),,, pulled the ECU off the mount and it's right there. The fan is underneath... At the bottom of the fan are two 8 or 10mm nutts, I believe the bottom bolts are affixed. Turn off the nuts and the fan should come away from the chaise... Mine just need to be cleaned out, then spun with right voltage and it started spinning on its own. Felt good to do AND the ECU was quite warm...
FROM THE IMAGE: The shifter leg,,, the whole thing of it,,, has two prominent engaging knobs (the upper one) I see when I'm working on it, and a white plastic slot that it fits into. It seems to work in that slot from P thru to D... Then, when ya move across to 5,,, the upper knob leaves this slot... I don't know what happens from there. And I don't understand (importantly) the LOWER knob on the shifter arm... I'm thinking, out of sight, that it engages or is guided by the large lower slot in the photo. But I don't know how...
My shifter gets really weird at the bottom of the P to D travel. Doesn't feel like it actually LANDS fully in drive... I am not sure what to do next to solve that problem. Cable,,, that lower plastic slot, the position of the neutral switch itself. All 3, 4 or 5 meshing parts. PITA...
I'm going to go back and get the numbers from the picture and edit this with numbers to identify some of the mentioned items
Are you going to be able to register this car when you're finished. I am under the impression most, if not all states, will not issue a salvage title for a flood car. Or maybe there wasn't a claim filed for the loss and it still has a clear title?
Are you going to be able to register this car when you're finished. I am under the impression most, if not all states, will not issue a salvage title for a flood car. Or maybe there wasn't a claim filed for the loss and it still has a clear title?
Yes, but you can get a 'Flood Title', at least in NC. No particular impediments to driving a car that works in most states. Obviously, one may have difficulty selling it.
Are you going to be able to register this car when you're finished. I am under the impression most, if not all states, will not issue a salvage title for a flood car. Or maybe there wasn't a claim filed for the loss and it still has a clear title?
Already registered in Vermont. Vt has a very liberal/generous registration process,,, check it out. From there, I believe, the Vermont process will have the effect of freeing things up in NYC for me. Good point though. Really!
What I need the most help in is figuring out where to begin chasing this Pulse Width Modulation problem. I don't want to be driving around with 2 or 3 extra fuel pumps or, an over fueling situation... I have to get that part sorted. I guess I'll be needing a osilloscope of some sort... Who wouldah thunk it?Car repair,,,, osilloscope, lol... What the heck!?
I love how these machines EVENTUALLY lead us into completely uncharted territory... At least for me. I work mostly on the street in front of my NYC apartment. Jeeeeze! An osilloscope!?
What I need the most help in is figuring out where to begin chasing this Pulse Width Modulation problem. I don't want to be driving around with 2 or 3 extra fuel pumps, or and over fueling situation... I have to get that part sorted. I guess I'll be needing a osilloscope of some sort... Who wouldah thunk it. Car repair,,,, osilloscope, lol... What the heck!?
I love how these machines EVENTUALLY lead us into completely uncharted territory... At least for me. I work mostly on the street in front of my NYC apartment. Jeeeeze! An osilloscope!?
As my now adult daughter would still say, 'true dat'. Obviously, first trick is to determine if someone you know has one. Second, there are now cheap USB scopes (I've not used them, but there are a number available) for ~$50. The advantage to having one around in the era of digital signals is to determine if the signal is 'digitaling', as you note. Quickly looking...
As my now adult daughter would still say, 'true dat'. Obviously, first trick is to determine if someone you know has one. Second, there are now cheap USB scopes (I've not used them, but there are a number available) for ~$50. The advantage to having one around in the era of digital signals is to determine if the signal is 'digitaling', as you note. Quickly looking...
Thank You, CR. Just about to order! Amazon doesn't allow the sharing of "links" too well but I'm thinking about this ONE. If the text below is copied and a search done,,, it's about $94 on Amazon. Don't know if I need to spend as much as this...? What do folks think?
Hantek 1008C 8CH Automotive Diagnostic
After taking a break, spending some wonderful and relaxing days in Birmingham, Alabama,,, back at it. Highly recommend Bottega and FonFon for chow! Bring a BiB!
So, looks like I'll have to redirect my focus a bit. It's not like I needed the 5 days (I'm sure) but I intentionally left the battery connected (new AGM bat) wondering about a parasitic draw/drain and sure enough. Completely DEAD battery... It seems it would be best to chase this down and solve it (OH MY GOSH) before moving on... I'm suspecting the amp, the antenna,,, or anyone of 50 other components... Jeeeeze Louise
From the beginning I've noticed to strong of a TICK and spark when I connected the battery leads. I knew something was off.
I've read a little on the Forum here looking for right direction, of course. I have a couple days before the dive but,,, is there anyone who has had good result using a digital MM, getting a best idea of amp drain as a baseline to start searching, then going around one by one and disconnecting the MAIN power supply lines found at each fuse box junction to begin narrowing it down? Will each disconnection of that main fuse box power supply line "wake up" the beast,,,, causing crazy readings? Is it possible this way for some junctions and not others? I know the main feed is accessible for at least 2 (maybe 3 boxes) off the top of my head. The boot for sure, the LH engine compartment, I think the ECU box,,, what about the damn doors. They would have to be opened, of course. The signal for lighting a micro switch which might be tough to disable.
I know the trunk lights go out after a few minutes,,, as well as the interior lights once doors are closed up. Not knowing when the actual "sleep" happens tho.
I'm also suspecting possibly the passengers window AND no matter what I do, I get the, "BOOT OPEN" message on the instrument display. I've tried unplugging the plug in the boot that goes to the micro switch there with no success lights go off but message remains. Anyone know how to get to the boot "ajar" sensor?
As usual,,, deep bow and many thanks for the amazing amount of guidance and support this far... Gots a LONG way to go, it seems.
She does sound really sweet tho when running. Love the exhaust mods. Damn am I excited! But this is gunna take some doing,,, if it can be done at all...
The trunk lights and warning messages electrics are classic problems. See below for a link a YouTube video how to get access through the trunk trim. Ignore the lock reference as it shows how to get the trim off.
And also check out Ryan B’s thread. Link below. Post #24 I gave the possible solution and a pic of parts with labels - it’s either the microswitches or the diode. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-214047/page2/
Hey Man, thanks. Slowly but surely - I'll get there. If it happens by Spring, I'll be happy with that...
The trunk lock and lock mechanism works fine. I think I have seen this vid, actually. I will watch it again...
I'm really hoping I can get this parasitic gremlin solved,,, and yes,,, it could very well be connected to the idea that the BOOT seems to always believe it's OPEN, lol... The chase
So... I'm looking. I have the head unit out. Radio, HVAC and strip with the seat heaters, hazards and Trac on off disconnected... I have a replacement head unit..
Antenna disconnected as well as the amp, cd and nav... Trunk plug light disconnected.
Doors closed and I think she is "asleep"...
This is what I'm looking at BUT I don't trust my DMM skills enough and was hoping someone could describe this reading. After reading some others work and descriptions here on the forum,,, I think (where I usually go wrong, lol) I'm in the green so to speak. Might be high?
Set a 2m DC V
It's not clear what this is measuring. It appears to be 85 microamps, but it's uncertain whether that is large or small (or neither) depending on the measurement.
I presume you have the Digital Multi Meter in series with the battery, measuring a current draw of 85mA with the car off and asleep.
That should be fine normally, but right now you've all the ancillaries pulled out. If one system, eg Music Amp, HVAC or cigar lighter, is pulling current when the car is off, that's what you need to find.
12-21-2019, 12:40 PM
NO CRANK NO START - JGate
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+oscilloscope&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1577201986&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank
