When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Given you have a replacement, I'd toss the original FPM into the parts museum.
There aren't too many actors left in this conspiracy, so another ECM should help narrow things down further. Be aware that it may need programming as it's tied into the security system (talks to the KTM).
You did definitely not get them crossed?
I'm asking in case there is a short to ground/B+ on either of them, although you reported getting a DMM response on each of the two wires in a previous post. You should be able to determine some information on the 150Hz from the ECM if the DMM reports RMS values. The 1Hz 'heartbeat' is more tricky as it's a very low repetition rate:- not too easy to see on a scope either (or at least the ones I've used in the past).
Hahaha... I don't THINK I crossed them. But now that you say it,,, lol,,, I have all NEW doubts. But, I don't believe so.
I do have the correct pump and certainly don't want to burn the think the way it's running full blast.
Sorry,,, but (from above) what's RMS?
What I understood from the mechanic who had the car (the Jag "expert" who figured nothing out) and it doesn't mean it's 100%, is that the KTM is the gate keeper and once it determines that the key IS the key, it gives the green light to all else. I hope that is true in terms of the ECM.
Ha! I thought my hobby was supposed to be FUNSo it goes.
RMS = Root Mean Square.
It's a way of determining the average power of an alternating current signal. Some meters will do it accurately, some won't. The meter instructions may tell you.
Originally Posted by JayJagJay
What I understood from the mechanic who had the car (the Jag "expert" who figured nothing out) and it doesn't mean it's 100%, is that the KTM is the gate keeper and once it determines that the key IS the key, it gives the green light to all else. I hope that is true in terms of the ECM.
That's mostly the way I read it, but there seems to be additional dialogue on the 2003 up cars. I'm not certain - perhaps one of the techs could advise.
Well your thread is way beyond my humble skills, so all I can say is keep at it. You’ll get there... eventually
Thanks Brother...
I don't know how true that is... You Got Skills... And, you're a great logic based thinker. I read your advise and suggestions all over this forum!
Me? I mostly feel like I'm groping in the dark and in some ways wasting folks time - due to all this being my first rodeo,,, with most of this stuff. There is so much I don't know or understand. It gets frustrating.
Thank you, really! I do need the encouragement some days!
GOT IT..... SOLVED! FINALLY!
And,,, my the front spacers came in for the XJS today, lol
I need to thank you ALLLLL so much for giving your precious time... For real!
What a thing!
Today I cut the INERTIA switch out of the system and the fueling went to RIGHT NORMAL... 55 +/- lbs per...
There's no telling when water is involved, I guess..
Seems the minor voltage difference in the 3 systems (at least) directly in line with the inertia switch was enough to disable the PWM and normal fueling...???
NO CRANK on key turn is BACK... I'm going to get under the car tomorrow and check out all wiring to do with starter, alternator and solenoid. The problem has to be there somewhere. I was hoping that the change with removing the Inertia switch would also solve the cranking issue but no go. Fires right up with the remote trigger driving the starter relay - but NOT the key. Strange strange thing.
CRAZY MAKER!!!!!!!
Now these. 2 codes to go.
I see a O2 sensor change in my future - can anyone point me in the direction of the O2 sensor relay or fuse? I need all the help I can get. AND,,,,
What might be the cause, in yalls experience, for a LEAN CODE that has been with me since I started down this rabbit hole?
Also, maybe someone can help me out. Ive been calling this thing a 2004 BUT,,, the "manufacture date" on the VIN plaque says 8/03...
Is there a breaking point when determining model year?
GOT IT..... SOLVED! FINALLY! ...Now these. 2 codes to go.
I see a O2 sensor change in my future - can anyone point me in the direction of the O2 sensor relay or fuse? I need all the help I can get. AND,,,,
What might be the cause, in yalls experience, for a LEAN CODE that has been with me since I started down this rabbit hole?
Finally - the reward for persistence. Well done
Here's the DTC lookup:
Check for an air leak for starters for the P0171. HO2S probably not relay as both upper & lower sensors are fed by the same one. They're here:
Originally Posted by JayJagJay
Also, maybe someone can help me out. Ive been calling this thing a 2004 BUT,,, the "manufacture date" on the VIN plaque says 8/03...
Is there a breaking point when determining model year?
Match up the last 6 characters of your VIN to the 'points of interest' section of the attached doc. It shows A36874 as the 2004 MY intro.
Last edited by michaelh; 03-09-2021 at 06:27 AM.
Reason: add ho2s info
Out of the frying pan as they say. And so it goes...
I solved the 0171 code yesterday and, for the O2 sensor, crawling around under the car for kinda the first time, looks like the O2 sensor (lower) will just take a wrench... The PO has done some wonderful MODs on the ol lady and cats are custom and the O2 sensors are down at the bottom in easy reach. Custom CATs, no my muffler, an X pipe, mid mufflers, under axle and no mufflers... I've never mentioned the sound of this car, but it's nice,,, maybe loud for my taste. Anywho
I have 2 new codes and I'm hoping you good folks can help point me in the right direction...
P0450 evap and
P0782 sliping 2-3 3-2...
Granted, I have NOT done an EXACT in my trans fluid level (but will), so I'm hoping it's that. Any ideas (other than proper fluid leveling) on the tranny code. I couldn't find a lot of Jaguar specific info on the forum...
On and on and ON it goes...
Thank you all so so much.
P0782 Code 2-3 shift fault,,, and car will not go higher than 2nd or 3rd gear... PITA..
Adjusted trans fluid today pretty easily - no change in the code on a short drive. If I turn the car off "gear box" fault disappears but will return on short test drives..
Looking to see what solenoid is responsible for the 2-3 shift without much luck. Asking here if anyone knows? I don't have the cash to replace them all right now, would rather just replace the one and see. Is that possible?
Also changed out and wired in a new relay plug for the starter. Occasionally it will start with the key, sometimes/half the time, not... I get just under 11v when not,,, it's just not enough to trigger the relay I guess? Again, don't know why.
Good Morning, Members After messaging Klaus at The CTSC a few times and then talking to him for a looooong QandA (great guy!), and NOT taking his advise exactly, I did some things,,,, low and behold - it/they worked...! He suggested calling it a day and find a "new" transmission...
I have a little ways to go and I hate counting chickens before they hatch, BUT....
So I removed the valve body, did some air pressure testing on the clutches thru the ports on the underside of the transmission. There are 5 working ports that connect (a press fit) when bolting the VB back into the trans... On test, the 3 and R clutch port seemed a bit strange (all I had was a bicycle pump with a rubber attachment/seal) but the other ports built pressure and the clutch packs moved rightly with air pressure.
Opened and completely cleaned up/out the valve body. Removed each valve/piston one by one to inspect and confirm free movement. Inspected the accumulator dampers which looked brand new. There was zero rust or corrosion (a complete surprise considering it had to have sat in water for a good while) anywhere. Cleaned up the contacts on both sides of the mechatronic plug. Replaced plug sleeve. Fit the separator plate, the solenoids. Replaced pan. Replaced 4 soft hoses and block seal. Reinstalled, filled with oil (not life guard) and took it for a VERY short drive.
I did not "reset" adaptions and have no way to do it. Hopefully you guys can tell me IF my thinking is accurate on this point...? If mechatronics unit sat for a very long time without power, the car (while mechatronic was installed) sat without power for a very long time here and there. So, I figure in all that time powered down is "reset" itself???? Is that how it works?
Or,,, in that short bit of time that the car was moving with what I GUESS was a defective solenoid(s) and or a clogged pan or both,,, would the TCM quickly start trying to compensate for that and MIS set it's workings?
First drive,,, NO "gear box fault" on dash display shifting thru first second and third... I still have to hook up the code reader and see, but, with some slipping (and it seemed to get better as I drove) - I only drove a VERY short distance - the car seemed to go thru all the lower gears,,, again, with some slipping and,,,.... Is this to be expected?
I RAN OUT of sun and called it a day.... I never got the car into higher gears 4th (maybe) but definitely not 5th or 6th for sure...
Q: Considering I completely opened emptied the valve body, removed the solenoids and all that - how long and thru how many shift cycles does/will it take for the trans and the maze to be right and be COMPLETELY full/up to pressure - in all of it's passages? I got the feeling that the valve body was "refilling" and it would take some driving to get itself right. Is this how it works and what I should expect?
Thanks for allll and any help and advise! Ended up getting WRONG plate the first time from a California Trans supplier. Check numbers.
So. I been driving her. Nice nice nice...
Very much different than the XK8.
Still a loooooong way to go...
Just in time for summer and I am excited.
Battery drain is solved. The drain was the nav system. New battery, good things.
I start the car with a trigger - issues with voltage from the TCM it seems but yet undefined! My biggest problem... I'm hopeful.
No windshield wash pump. Replacement is on the way.
Need a micro-switch in the driver's door. It's amazing how much ah PITA a door switch can cause.
Can't adjust door mounted rear view mirrors.
I think it's in the switch(s) not the mirror motors.
I cracked my own windshield trying to remove one of the wiper arms, don't ask - smh
Convertible top is fixed. Butter!
I have O2 sensor codes p0057 and p1646. Replacing sensors is next. Car runs on base map. 0 trim on obd across the board.
Seats need work. Electrics and cosmetics. I have the seat modules, just gotta/wanna pull the seats and replace seat backs (maybe) with the shweeeet two times recaros that came with the Portfolio cars.
No more transmission gear box fault or limp mode issues after new pan, separator plate and solenoids... Good stuff. I don't have (need one) a reader that reads transmission codes but the code I was getting, the 2-3 shift code, is gone.
She still seems to be finding her way in getting used to new solenoids, and such. I didn't have the money for a reset of the adaptions but the shifting and drive feels smoother and more right Everytime I drive. Which kinda leads into my next set o questions...
The PO modified the exhaust system. CATS are custom. The large mid silencer muffler is there. No middle silencers/mufflers or rears. Pipes go under the rear diff. Not to low, they haven't hit, yet! Seems ok as is BUT,,,,
One, the car is loud and two - and I'm hoping folks with modified exhausts can help me out here - (Maybe I'll start a new thread). Because the 6hp26 is always searching and adjusting the gearing to make for a smooth and comfortable Jaguar ride it seems that the exhaust note is all over the place, especially at slower speeds, in tune with the transmission and engine changes. Is that normal, or what I can expect from this set up?
Anyways. I haven't spent really any money YET on this thing, nothing worth mentioning anyways, and it's been nothing (but for a few exceptions) fun - and getting FUN-er with the top down!
Thank you all so much! Still hasn't had a good bath...
Hey does the car have mirror / seat memory? I ask because even with a broken switch the memory button (choose 1 or 2) will still move the mirrors if they work. You can narrow this down to a bad switch that way.
Heads up buying a replacement switch, many (many) folks lable a passenger door window switch for sale with the photo of the driver side. For newbies driver side switch has mirror adjustment passenger never does.
Very impressive rescue. Lord knows you put the time in!!
Use the manual option when driving in low speed traffic. While expensive, the Launch X431 pros mini does over 100 makes and all modules, includes two years of updates in initial price.
Hey does the car have mirror / seat memory? I ask because even with a broken switch the memory button (choose 1 or 2) will still move the mirrors if they work. You can narrow this down to a bad switch that way.
Heads up buying a replacement switch, many (many) folks lable a passenger door window switch for sale with the photo of the driver side. For newbies driver side switch has mirror adjustment passenger never does.
Very impressive rescue. Lord knows you put the time in!!
John
Thanks John x2!!!
Pressed the memory switches today and low and behold. Mirror motors, both, went into action! Great and smart suggestion... Now, 100000 other things, lol. Not really.
Who would have ever thought I would have a solenoid for a jaguar xkr convertible pump just laying around??? I (yup, this is me) broke the plastic connector off of one of the solenoids on top of the pump yesterday and, the gods are good, I had a spare... But,,,, why? Haha
These cars are turning me into a hoarding mad man! Lol.
Crawled under the rear end and removed the two carbon canisters... Literally 5min each. One was sweet and clean, the other a mess. The clean one, there was this awesome substance in the canister, this completely clear, slightly foamy, slightly viscose stuff. Stuff that I'm guessing accumulates with use over time. A petroleum by-product I've never come across. So interesting I stood there examining it for a while. Fragrant smell, kinda lemony... Slippery.
Anyways. The other I pried open. Cool set up. Absolutely packed with carbon pellets. There is a medium length plastic post with a plastic/nylon wool sheet covered by an aluminum or tin plate captured by a push fit fastener that packs it all together. Well designed. Dumped all of the pellets into a strainer and rinsed, dryed it in the sun on a slab of cardboard and refilled the canister. Then, epoxied the cover back on and reinstalled. Solved the p0450 code I got when I started driving the car. The p0450 didn't appear til driving. Never showed up during idle in the weeks and months I've been slowly working on getting this thing back together. A good day.
Went for a nice drive out in Jersey after and so far so good.
2 O2 sensors and I should be done with codes. Tin or aluminum plate with plastic post (pry off carefully, and the catering plate on the side of the canister that connects with 2 bolts to the chasie under the car. Easily pryed off top plate...
Well! I ain't never seen that before. Slow work over the last week's and months finally cleared things up. TRIMS be trimming...
Changed the O2 sensors last night (all of 30min) which eliminated the p0057, p1646 (thanks Michael) and,,,, to my surprise the p0193 codes and BAM, code free since forever!
To my surprise, the trimming has had an effect on the shifting, the exhaust note and overall smoothness of the run. I didn't expect that. Maybe it's so obvious because I can really hear the engine with the exhaust mods...
Hoping NOT to JINKS myself with this post.
Always seems to happen.
Driver's window now drops on latch pull. Replaced the micro switch, got a new RH kick panel, replaced the damn windshield wash pump and a few other things. All good outcomes.
Still have to figure out where I'm losing voltage when I turn the key. Still having to use a trigger to fire her up. Oh well. I'll (we'll) get it.
As usual. Thanks for ALLLLLLL the help, suggestions and advise. More to come I'm sure.
03-04-2021, 09:48 AM
