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Which Flush is best?

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Old 10-06-2024, 09:13 AM
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Default Which Flush is best?

Need to do a full cooling system flush and I have read the guides on here which are great and I know personal preference will come into play but which system flush do you consider is best? Especially if the system has not been done for a while and I suspect its gummed up. I know Holts and Wynns do a flush and I have even read somewhere that someone used a crushed dishwasher tablet!!! but it wasn't on a Jaguar.
So any recommendations would be very welcome
 
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Old 10-06-2024, 12:31 PM
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The best flush is plain distilled or deionised water. Simply drain, refill, bring up to temp and drain again until the previous antifreeze has been removed. Twice is normally sufficient.

Richard
 
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Old 10-06-2024, 12:52 PM
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Thanks Richard for your reply not sure if just distilled or ionised water on its on will shift any stubborn deposits but willing to give it a go
 
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Old 10-06-2024, 01:01 PM
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It's up to you but my go to product is Thermocure. Made by the same people as Evapo-Rust if you have used that? It works the same way by chelation so it's not acid or alkali.
Nice and gentle too. I usually run it for a week or so to get a number of heating and cooling cycles on the engine.
Thermocure

Easy to find as it's widely distributed.
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Old 10-06-2024, 03:44 PM
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Thank you for that clubairth1 I have used Evapo-rust a few years ago on another car and it did do a good job but I didn't know that I could run it as long as you did to to get a cleaner flush
 
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Old Yesterday, 10:11 AM
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Yes that's one of the nice things about Thermocure (Not EvapoRust) is there is no hurry to remove it because like Evaporust it does not attack or remove anything metal. Only rust as it's converted to a water soluble Iron compound that can be flushed away. Like EvapoRust it is a bit expensive but you don't use it very often so I think it's worth the price.

Now you might get surprised as I have found these late model all Aluminum engines just don't have the muck and filth in the cooling systems like the old Iron block engines. I was doing a 2014 5.0L Ford Coyote engine and ran ThermoCure for a week and It came out just about as clean as when it went in.
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Old Yesterday, 11:14 AM
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I ended up using basic prestone radiator solution from the part store. My heater was not producing satisfactory heat anymore, and after the usual suspects proved ok, I did a heater core flush (basic garden hose procedure, nothing fancy). Even using cold water (and leaving the solution in the core for the amount of time prescribed on the container), the heat produced by the core was night and day. Heater produced warm air after about a mile of driving in freezing temperature. My unsubstantiated theory is that over time, dexcool coats the cooling system somehow, and a proper cleaner is required to break this barrier once in a while to promote/restore proper heat transfer.

Best of luck, keep us posted.
 
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Old Yesterday, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Yes that's one of the nice things about Thermocure (Not EvapoRust) is there is no hurry to remove it because like Evaporust it does not attack or remove anything metal. Only rust as it's converted to a water soluble Iron compound that can be flushed away. Like EvapoRust it is a bit expensive but you don't use it very often so I think it's worth the price.

Now you might get surprised as I have found these late model all Aluminum engines just don't have the muck and filth in the cooling systems like the old Iron block engines. I was doing a 2014 5.0L Ford Coyote engine and ran ThermoCure for a week and It came out just about as clean as when it went in.
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Thanks for that info and that is Amazing regarding the 5.0L Ford Coyote engine maybe the way it is ported helps so that the coolant flows through better. Either way that is impressive!!
 
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Old Yesterday, 03:28 PM
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Thank you for your input regarding the use of Prestone.. I have seen this mentioned somewhere before but I did wonder if it might be a bit too harsh.Although I do agree that the Dexcool probably does leave some kind of coating behind which you can see inside the header tank and on the caps and I don't think that is a good thing either.
 
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