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Hello, and thank you in advance for your time and help.
I've been reading through the old posts and racking my brains trying to work out why my fobs don't work on my 2002 XKR. I'm hoping somebody can help me get to the bottom of this?
1. I've checked, cleaned and replaced the batteries in both fobs - all 4 buttons on both fobs are transmitting.
2. I've repeatedly tried to program the fobs. I get to the final stage after pressing the buttons 5 times but I don't get a beep or the red light doesn't flash near the gear selector.
This is the sequence i've been trying:
Enter the car and sit in the Drivers seat (door open).
Place the key in the ignition.
Hold the headlight flasher arm back – the blue “high beam” light will come on the dashboard and the headlights will come on.
Keep holding the headlight flasher back and turn the ignition key to position 1.
Release the flasher, and then flash the headlights FOUR TIMES. You will hear a “Beep” AND/OR see a small red light illuminate briefly on the Gear Selector on the fourth flash of the headlight – this is to confirm that the car has entered programming mode.
Program each transmittor (up to FIVE fobs can be programmed) by pressing any button on the fob. You will hear a “Beep” AND/OR see the red light on the Gear Selector with each press of a button.
The car must “Beep” or red light flash five times to complete programming. Therefore, if you are only programming one transmitter you should operate the transmitter 5 times.
If you are programming two transmitters you will operate one transmitter twice, and three times on the other.
Wait for the car to exit programming – this will be indicated by a final “Beep” AND/OR the red light on the Gear Selector.
The remotes are now ready to use.
How long should i wait for the programming? I've waited at least 2 minutes on some attempts. I've seen it should be pretty much instant.
3. Checked ignition flap, sprayed with WD40 - flap shutting (even trapped my WD40 straw!) 😂
4. Tried programming my 1997 XK8 fobs on my 2002 XKR - still no joy.
5. Checked SLM. Circuit board looks like new - I can't see any dry joints. I also made sure the aerial is connected correctly to it (externally). I haven't checked both sides of the circuit board - I haven't checked the side where the aerial is connected - I couldn't work out how to remove it.
6. Checked fuses in boot including fuse 10 @ 10 AMPS.
7. My internal boot and petrol cap buttons work. The external button on the rear of the boot also works.
8. I've done a hard reset.
My SLM is LJE2600BC. My fobs are LJE2610-BB. Are these compatible?
Am I right in understanding there is also an aerial behind the rear passenger seat (behind drivers seat UK) panel?
Also, is there a fob detector built into or above the rear windscreen?
Any thoughts or help will be massively appreciated. Sorry about all the bold text. I'm trying to point out everything I've done so far as clearly as possible.
For this fob business, the system changed in '01 (so the '97 fobs will not work for sure). Fortunately, the later fobs are very inexpensive. Check eBay. Pick a vendor with good feedback, these guys typically know their gear.
At this point, you have zero fobs working? Has your existing fob ever worked?
Someone recently re-posted a procedure to flip a fob from the European frequencies to the US frequencies and back (a combination of button presses). Also, parts store here in the US typically have fob testers. Have you had yours checked?
In the detail, are you getting any feedback as you press the fob button each time (does the car acknowledge this)? Or are you pressing 5 times without any reaction? Have you tried alternating between open and close buttons? For the coupe, the coax connection snaps to the antenna is at the top of the rear window.
A while ago, I upgraded my fobs to the x-type combination fob/blade and programming took 30 sec and was a complete non-event. Cheap fobs off of eBay, too, nothing expensive.
Thank you fmertz for your reply. I only purchased the XKR recently and the 2 fobs I got have never worked this I've had it. Fobs have been checked and are working. Sorry, I should have confirmed it's a coupe. I will check the antenna at the top of the rear window. Yes, I've tried alternating buttons and no, the car doesn't acknowledge I'm pressing the fob buttons - I press 5 times with no reaction.
So you upgraded to the x-type fobs? Do you know if my SLM and fob codes are compatible? How did you know what x-type fobs were compatible with your SLM code? Thanks.
Hello, and thank you in advance for your time and help......
Welcome to the forum Nick,
I've always thought the fob programming procedure has about as much science behind it as sacrificing a chicken. As yours have never worked, it is possible the PO or dealer simply obtained two incompatible fobs.
Looking back through my records I have two slightly different methods which have been used successfully on a number of XJ8's and XK8's:
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Hello Graham, many thanks for your post. I will try the other methods this weekend. Yes, I too am wondering if the fobs are not the originals (or visa versa with the SLM) and therefore they aren't syncing. Do you know if there is any information to check the 2 codes are compatible?
Thanks. I will post on the New Members Area. I was already a member but couldn't remember my user name, so logged in via my Facebook profile. I think the site is fantastic - so informative with loads of fabulous, helpful members.
You might want to try and find the VCATS sticker in spare tire wheel well. It lists the part numbers (and VCATS) for some of the modules that were put in the car by Jaguar at build time.
..... My fobs are LJE2610-BB. Are these compatible? .....
According to JEPC, fob LJA2610BA is up to VIN A11050 and fob LJE2610BB is from VIN A11051. The later 4.2 model uses LJE2610BC but the Parts Catalogue doesn't give the start VIN for this.
Thank you Fmertz and Graham for your posts. I've just looked in the boot of my 2002 XKR Coupe and I can't find a VCATS sticker (I've found it in my 1997 XK8 Coupe). I've found the VIN number in my XKR and it ends A27830 so, if I'm understanding Graham's last post correctly, my VIN is highly than A11051 and therefore I have the correct fobs.
Just looking at your last post again Graham, you say "The later 4.2 model uses LJE2610BC but the Parts Catalogue doesn't give the start VIN for this" for the fobs . My SLM code is LJE2600BC but my XKR isn't a 4.2 model!?! Should my SLM code end BB? Or do I need BC fobs for a BC SLM?
Thanks again Graham. Looking at the screenshot you posted, isn't it saying (where the red arrow is) that VINs from A11051 upwards have LJE2600BBSecurity Locking Modules? Sorry if i'm misunderstanding. Thanks.
After repeated failure, This variation on existing posts is what worked for me:
existing methodology:
1. Insert ignition key into the ignition switch barrel, but do not turn it. 2. Hold the turn signal switch stalk in the "flash to pass" postion and turn the ignition on with the key (while holding the turn signal switch in "flash to pass"). 3. Then repeatedly flash the lights with the turn signal stalk until a confirmation chirp is heard (usually five or six flashes). 4. After hearing the chirp, depress the button on the remote transmitter being programmed. If the remote was accepted, there will be another confirmation chirp.
5. Turn off the ignition and test the remote.
Might also be worth editing the XK8/XKR instructions to say that the procedure has to be repeated 5 times.
I got NOWHERE using this sequence in trying to program two remotes, (let's call them remote "A" and remote "B"), when programming remote "A" one time , then programming remote "B" four times, as suggested above.
out of desperation I tried doing both remotes together like this:
followed the first 3 steps unaltered:
1. Insert ignition key into the ignition switch barrel, but do not turn it. 2. Hold the turn signal switch stalk in the "flash to pass" postion and turn the ignition on with the key (while holding the turn signal switch in "flash to pass"). 3. Then repeatedly flash the lights with the turn signal stalk until a confirmation chirp is heard (usually five or six flashes).
This is my STEP 4:
4. After hearing the chirp, depress the button on the remote transmitter "A" being programmed. If the remote was accepted, there will be another confirmation chirp. THEN immediately depress the button on the remote transmitter "B" being programmed. If the remote was accepted, there will be another confirmation chirp.
Repeated those steps 1-4 five times, and both remotes "A" and B" were now programmed.
Thanks again for the newest comments. Thanks Zray, i've tried your other programming method but still no joy. I've had another look at the SLM circuit board and, to the eye, it all looks good (it looks like new - no water ingress). I've also traced the aerial from the SLM to the rear windscreen and I have continuity. I've been doing as much research as I can and it appears the only part of the SLM that isn't working is connecting/communicating with the fobs (lights, fuel cap, boot button, central locking, alarm etc all work).
I see there are 2 circuit boards within the SLM. They are connected by a white 4 pin flex ribbon cable. I believe the smaller circuit board (connected to the aerial) is the receiver/booster. Does anybody know where I can find the circuitboard electronic diagrams for a 2002 SLM?
Thanks again for the newest comments. Thanks Zray, i've tried your other programming method but still no joy. I've had another look at the SLM circuit board and, to the eye, it all looks good (it looks like new - no water ingress). I've also traced the aerial from the SLM to the rear windscreen and I have continuity. I've been doing as much research as I can and it appears the only part of the SLM that isn't working is connecting/communicating with the fobs (lights, fuel cap, boot button, central locking, alarm etc all work).
I see there are 2 circuit boards within the SLM. They are connected by a white 4 pin flex ribbon cable. I believe the smaller circuit board (connected to the aerial) is the receiver/booster. Does anybody know where I can find the circuitboard electronic diagrams for a 2002 SLM?
Many thanks
Given the rarity of the SLM I don't think I would fiddle about with it anymore. Can I suggest you have a look at the ECU next and examine that for problems? Look at this post from another thread where he fixed non working fobs with a replacement ECU. This is the only time I have ever seen anyone fix the fobs when they have eliminated everything else:-
Originally Posted by millhouse_corfe
I had a spare ECU in the boot of the car and the mechanic fitted it to the car and programed the key to the security module just for completeness. Now the car works as well as it used too but suddenly all my remote controls for the car are suddenly working again. They stopped working 2 years ago, so i used to unlock the car and turn the key before the 30 seconds expired and the alarm went off. There is no chirp from the alarm as the doors are locked or unlocked and only the lights flash. I suspect the alarm is not working. No big deal there as the car is securely garaged and never left out overnight or for any time during the day.
My problem is thus; the faulty coil pack was a simple test and replace the coil pack. The replacement ECU cured a remote not working problem. I cannot be sure however, if replacing the ECU cured some other intermittent problems. The only way to find out is to put the old one back in and run the car for a while.
A lot of suggestions was to take the car to a main dealer. However the garage i found was a specialist Jaguar garage with experienced Jaguar mechanics. Main dealer prices are Ł160 per hour and these guys are Ł60 per hour for the same, if not better diagnostic equipment than a main dealer. They are Hollygrove Motors, St Ives, near Ringwood in Hampshire.
I see there are 2 circuit boards within the SLM. They are connected by a white 4 pin flex ribbon cable. I believe the smaller circuit board (connected to the aerial) is the receiver/booster. Does anybody know where I can find the circuitboard electronic diagrams for a 2002 SLM?
It is.
You will not find schematics or anything proprietary for any of the car's modules until/unless Jaguar (or Ford in this case) makes them available.
How have the fobs been confirmed as working?
Can you confirm that you are entering fob programming mode? The beep/chirp is virtually inaudible on mine.
I can't reconcile the ECM playing a part in this although I know it has worked for some? The dialogue is between the BPM & SLM to initiate fob programming mode, and subsequently SLM & fob.
I can't reconcile the ECM playing a part in this although I know it has worked for some? The dialogue is between the BPM & SLM to initiate fob programming mode, and subsequently SLM & fob.
Who knows what needs to be communicating with what to allow the fobs to be programmed? Its just that a lot of people have reached this dead end, tried replacing the SLM and still not had working fobs. To me, given that there has been at least one report of the ECM fixing the problem, I would be looking at that now.
We really need someone to come back and definitively say how they fixed this, as all the threads so far go quiet.
Who knows what needs to be communicating with what to allow the fobs to be programmed?
It's in the SCP message list in JTIS (electrical guide).
Not disagreeing with you: just I can't see any relevant inter-module dialogue that includes the ECM, and I agree it's frustrating that there has been no definitive resolution.
Last edited by michaelh; 10-31-2018 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: qualify JTIS
It's in the SCP message list in JTIS (electrical guide).
Not disagreeing with you: just I can't see any relevant inter-module dialogue that includes the ECM, and I agree it's frustrating that there has been no definitive resolution.
I doubt the JTIS gives the full details behind how the security system works, so you really can't rely on that to rule something out. Given that ECUs are relatively cheap and SLMs are relatively expensive, I really can't see a reason not to go down that route once you are at a dead end..
As Sherlock Holmes might have said "Once you've tried everything else, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the reason the fobs don't work".
10-25-2018, 01:50 PM
Fobs and SLM getting the better of me!...
