Front end rebuild complete...finally!!
#1
Front end rebuild complete...finally!!
It's been since march when I thought this phase of my cat's upgrades would be complete..., six months later..., all is good.
Nontheless,Thought I'd share. A couple of the biggest obstacles have been lower bushing and balljoint removal. I am using Powerflex poly bushes, so installation is a breeze. Just make sure the front lower contol arm buses are installed properly. Narrow to the front, wide to the rear, as Racediagnostics so well demonstrated.
( Nice Job BTW RD!)
As the JTIS states, the stock control arm bushes have self sacrificing flanges. I disassembled my front and rear lower arms (not necessary), as I cleaned and repainted them with gloss chassis paint.
Just put the arms flange side down on press bedplates, allowing for the bushing to push through, using a correct size tool(or socket) use the press to push the bushing through the flanges. All 4 of mine were out within 5 minutes. I don't own a press, but a friend at the local Lexus dealer allowed me use of their shop press.
As for the lower balljoint, I removed the flanges with a cut-off wheel, as you would the upper balljoint. This allows the surface of the control arm to sit flush on the press bedplates, find the right size tool or socket, and you can press them right out, quick and painless.
Now, the fun part, because of the design of the rear arm, it is difficult at the least to get it in the correct position for balljoint installation. My good friend Kraut(yes, he's really German!) and I put our heads together, and with the help of posts from this forum, made a jig.
The base is a piece of 3/16 plate, it needs to be 18-20" long, this one was 8" wide. At one end we bolted a 6" piece of 2x2 angle, allowing the bolts to clear either side of the bushing end of the arm. The support piece was a 5 1/2" piece of 2" heavy wall tubing, it was straight cut on either end, it needs to be placed in a position that allows the the ball joint to press in straight and flush.
A small level helped me place it so it sits 90 degrees, side to side and front to rear level, to the press ram. Again another section of angle was bolted forward of this to prevent any movement. Now this jig can be utilized for either left or right side. The angle iron ends keep the arm from sliding as the balljoint is being pressed in.
The installation tool was a 41mm inside dia. brass fork seal installation tool(see pics) I had both of the ball joints installed and seated within minutes with this fixture.
Everything from that point on assembled with ease, I had previously installed H&R springs, replaced the lower shock bushings, added new upper mounts, and was very pleased to find the Moog problem solver endlinks fit just fine, as they are much stouter than stock, and carry a large urethane bushing on the control arm end.
Although she's not road ready yet, the ride hieght in front sits at about14 1/4" I expect it to settle a little. Yeah, I took liberty's with the tires, as they are 255/35ZR 18 Vreds, 275/35ZR 18 rear.
I will have to say, I dig my Dorchester gray double fives! Next, all powerflex in the rear plus an H&R spring change too.
She sits tail high now, the rear springs should help cure that issue.
Cheers for now,
BK
Nontheless,Thought I'd share. A couple of the biggest obstacles have been lower bushing and balljoint removal. I am using Powerflex poly bushes, so installation is a breeze. Just make sure the front lower contol arm buses are installed properly. Narrow to the front, wide to the rear, as Racediagnostics so well demonstrated.
( Nice Job BTW RD!)
As the JTIS states, the stock control arm bushes have self sacrificing flanges. I disassembled my front and rear lower arms (not necessary), as I cleaned and repainted them with gloss chassis paint.
Just put the arms flange side down on press bedplates, allowing for the bushing to push through, using a correct size tool(or socket) use the press to push the bushing through the flanges. All 4 of mine were out within 5 minutes. I don't own a press, but a friend at the local Lexus dealer allowed me use of their shop press.
As for the lower balljoint, I removed the flanges with a cut-off wheel, as you would the upper balljoint. This allows the surface of the control arm to sit flush on the press bedplates, find the right size tool or socket, and you can press them right out, quick and painless.
Now, the fun part, because of the design of the rear arm, it is difficult at the least to get it in the correct position for balljoint installation. My good friend Kraut(yes, he's really German!) and I put our heads together, and with the help of posts from this forum, made a jig.
The base is a piece of 3/16 plate, it needs to be 18-20" long, this one was 8" wide. At one end we bolted a 6" piece of 2x2 angle, allowing the bolts to clear either side of the bushing end of the arm. The support piece was a 5 1/2" piece of 2" heavy wall tubing, it was straight cut on either end, it needs to be placed in a position that allows the the ball joint to press in straight and flush.
A small level helped me place it so it sits 90 degrees, side to side and front to rear level, to the press ram. Again another section of angle was bolted forward of this to prevent any movement. Now this jig can be utilized for either left or right side. The angle iron ends keep the arm from sliding as the balljoint is being pressed in.
The installation tool was a 41mm inside dia. brass fork seal installation tool(see pics) I had both of the ball joints installed and seated within minutes with this fixture.
Everything from that point on assembled with ease, I had previously installed H&R springs, replaced the lower shock bushings, added new upper mounts, and was very pleased to find the Moog problem solver endlinks fit just fine, as they are much stouter than stock, and carry a large urethane bushing on the control arm end.
Although she's not road ready yet, the ride hieght in front sits at about14 1/4" I expect it to settle a little. Yeah, I took liberty's with the tires, as they are 255/35ZR 18 Vreds, 275/35ZR 18 rear.
I will have to say, I dig my Dorchester gray double fives! Next, all powerflex in the rear plus an H&R spring change too.
She sits tail high now, the rear springs should help cure that issue.
Cheers for now,
BK
Last edited by JimC64; 10-01-2014 at 07:24 PM. Reason: PLEASE ADD LINE BREAKS
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Hdpartsman00XKR (10-01-2014)
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Hdpartsman00XKR (10-07-2014)
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Thanks Slowepoke, I'm sure she's going to be stiff, the powerflex bushings and H&R springs are a given for that, but since I stayed with my 18" wheels, the 35 aspect ratio Vreds will be a big contributer to a harsher ride. I may end up returning to 45's, but the deal on these tires was so good, I could'nt refuse them. The lower ball joints came from Christophers Foreign Car Parts, $48.95 ea., I found them on Ebay.
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