Background: 4 months ago went to Tire store because I noticed wear on inner edge both front tires. Put on alignment machine, was told everything is within spec, no align needed.

Current: took front wheels off to install headlights. Evaluated wear - bad news. Inner wear much worse, in fact I could see pellet sized spot worn down to threads.

Yesterday Mechanic same Tire store advised new tires needed. Ok no surprise, ordered Continental extreme grip for a change to replace pirelli.

Surprise: was told that I need one tie rod, and new upper and lower ball joints on both sides. Was told they will not do an alignment without replacement.

Truth is she is driving quite nicely. But I've got to validate and prioritize this.

Tie rod check = no movements at 3 and 9 o'clock wheel unloaded right ?

I've seen rev Sam's video, looks pretty easy to replace. In fact don't I remember correctly that lower ball joints are on the tie rod end ?

Yes one lower ball joint has torn boot. How would I test if other one needs replacement?

Same question for upper ball joint, how to test?

Is the upper ball joint part of the A arm? I remember freeing it when I replaced upper bushings but don't recall if it separated with the ball joint or from the ball joint.

Long questions thanks for looking. I'm just trying to get my head around these surprise issues and plan to replace what I can solo.

Thanks john

 

I would probably get a second opinion on the frontend and get an explanation on what they find. If it is just the boots on the joints they can be replaced.

 

Gus thx. I'm at shop now requested they show me. I see play in lower ball joints. No play in upper. IOW any movements in upper joint rocking at 6 and 12 o'clock have just as much movements in upper A arm and it's miniscule. This Mechanic agrees upper are ok. I'll do a search on likelihood of freeing lower ball joint in place but the truth is up on the lift it looks like just a couple of bolts to free it to put on a press.

More later after new tires. I'm anxious to see the change from pirelli to continental, almost $100 cheaper per Tire.

John

 

I need to live with these Continental Tires for a while before I comment extensively. Are they different? Yes they sure are. Initial impressions are that they are more refined kind of like it is now more of a GT ride. Quieter? Yes it certainly seems so, though the truth is I never noticed the others being noisey with the roof open 90% of the time. I have to admit taking my "test" curves at full speed, so far they are doing everything the Pirelli's did just differently. I haven't gotten them to slip yet. More to come as I get used to them.

 

The lower wishbone needs to come out and it takes near all of a 20 ton press to press the LBJ out and a new one back in.

If the boot is torn, it nweds to be replaced.

On a 1-10 difficulty scale I rate it is a solid 7. 20 ton press and rigging skills are required. If you pay someone less than $300 labor per ball joint and they don't do jaguar ball joints a lot, they are going to complain to you how much it sucks.

 

My inner tie rod on the driver side was bad. With a jack under the lower wishbone to simulate ride height with the tires off the ground, I could turn the wheel slightly (toe in-toe out) without the rack input moving.

Many people would replace the rack for this play, but all of the play was in the driver side inner tie rod. Super easy to swap with a Crescent wrench and some locking pliers for the boot clamps.

To re-align the toe after the swap, I got it close by matching the old tie rod length, them drove the car and adjusted the new tiered until the steering wheel was perfectly centered. That was 8,000 miles ago and tire wear has been none.

 

You said that the tie rod ends were a problem but know that you have inner and outer tie rods so you need to know the one he was talking about. If you have no movement on the outer tie rod ends you will need to slide the rack boot back to see if the movement is in the inner tie rod. You do this by holding the one tire in place and try to move the other wheel 9 to 3 and 3 to 9 to see if you have a problem.

 

Also when pricing the ball joint also price the lower control arm with ball joint. At times the price for replacing just the ball joint is the same as the entire assembly. Remember after market is not bad as long as it is a direct fit.

 

Gus, Ungn, thank you both. I've got a bit to digest, looks like I'm picking the complicated jobs lately.

Truth is, replacing the outer tie rod is so easy I jumped at it. Like I said let me sleep on this one.

Thanks john

 

Doing both inner and outer tie rods at the same time is just as easy as replacing just an outer. You can build the inner+outer assembly off the car , matched to the length of the old assy (I used a cardboard template)

Then drive the car and adjust the length of the new side until the wheel centers.

 

Replacing the inner tie rod does require a tool that can only be used with the outer tie rod end removed.
When I do my inner and outer tie rods I use a tape measure from one outer tie rod to the other and most of the time it is correct but still have it aligned. I have this thing about my steering wheel being correct. You can do a search on the web and get info on how to do it. Many count the number of turns when removing the outer tie rod ends.

 

On an X100 on jackstands, there is room to remove the inner tie rod with an adjustable crescent wrench. No need for the inner tie rod tools (harbor freight)

Measuring tie rods, counting threads, etc is easier on the workbench than under car for us old guys.

 

Well I am 69 and it works for me.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

So when I observed Mechanic move right wheel at 3 and 6 o'clock in could clearly see the entire tie rod move in unison. Does this =inner tie rod needs replacement ? If so I'll plan to start there.

Thanks, John

 

Your concern is if you have play and it is not related to the outer tie rod then you should look at the inner tie rod. No play no concern.

 

You can also change the lower ball joint without a press, I have done three now with a C clamp, cheap to do but it is not at all easy.


First you need to cut the edge of the ball joint off with a angle grinder.

Use the C clamp to push it out.





Now the tricky bit, pushing the new one back in, because of the odd shape you need to make up a spacer whether using a C clamp or a press.