Front License - Any Good Solution?
#21
#22
#23
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Mark
Last edited by mjlaris; 02-18-2012 at 02:50 PM.
#24
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Stands for Earthquake Engineer (EQENGR was already taken believe it or not). I have had this personalized plate since 1986 and I figured in California the acronym would be a no-brainer. However the usual guess from curious folks as to what it means always starts with something to do with the music business (equalizing engineer?). When I point out it is "earthquake" then the penny finally falls.
Doug
Doug
#25
#26
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There's a local "lake community" that I often must drive through - in a suburb of Kansas City. Within six years, I have received three $75 tickets for not running a front plate (That's one of the ways, along with their well known speedtraps and kangaroo court that the little community lines their pockets with money.)
I have finally acquiesced by putting an hideous license "wart" on the front of my beauty. Here's the way I've been getting around the BULLSH*T requirement for the last two years.
I took the standard sized USA state plate and clamped it in a sheet metal brake right at the edge of the top of the embossed letters/numbers. I bent the top of the aluminum plate backwards about 80 degrees, unclamped it and flattened it the rest of the way. The did the same thing to the bottom edge.
Took me about 30 minutes...
I ended up with a European shaped plate that I formed to the front middle of the lower valence. I used stainless and brass hardware I had laying around the shop to mount it (at a slightly downward facing angle) to the plastic. Yes, I had to drill four 1/4 holes, but the result turned out (I think) pleasing - and I've not be hassled since.
It worked for me.
I have finally acquiesced by putting an hideous license "wart" on the front of my beauty. Here's the way I've been getting around the BULLSH*T requirement for the last two years.
I took the standard sized USA state plate and clamped it in a sheet metal brake right at the edge of the top of the embossed letters/numbers. I bent the top of the aluminum plate backwards about 80 degrees, unclamped it and flattened it the rest of the way. The did the same thing to the bottom edge.
Took me about 30 minutes...
I ended up with a European shaped plate that I formed to the front middle of the lower valence. I used stainless and brass hardware I had laying around the shop to mount it (at a slightly downward facing angle) to the plastic. Yes, I had to drill four 1/4 holes, but the result turned out (I think) pleasing - and I've not be hassled since.
It worked for me.
Last edited by maxwdg; 02-18-2012 at 04:08 PM. Reason: Wanted to add attachments
#27
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So far, my solution has been to tell 'em to shove off because the car was made without a place to mount a front plate. Many states offer that exemption.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...0&ref=gnr-prev
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...0&ref=gnr-prev
#28
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Most state have a minuim and maxiam hieght of liceince plates, thanks to the jacket up 4X4. Lower it and take your chances or have two large holes in the PVC bumper when it gets torn off. This is the problem that I had. Most people do not see the front as i blow on by! I am driving a car that leads and does not follow well. Jim
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