The video at the top of the post is the one I used. I made up the tool, and had to trim it a bit. When that didn't work I then bought some steel pipe and used a similar template to make up a tool. I could then get it to insert into the quick disconnect flanges and while pulling on the pipes, get them to disconnect. Definitely not easy - it took the best part of a day to get it to work.

The problem I have is that the steel cages within the couplings suffered from fatigue and broke. I can't find replacements anywhere, unless anyone knows some part numbers? I've had to cut down some Ford ones from Autozone, which is definitely not a confortable situation.

Tim

 

What type of steel for the tool?
My main problem is reaching into the spot which is way to small.
If I had a lift it would at least be somewhat comfortable under the car.
I guess if I get the line out I will have a similar problem putting the line back in.

I purchased the longer Sears tools and have made another plastic tool, next warm day I'll give it another try.

 

Follow Up: On another forum a guy called Steven told me the fuel line quick disconnect pieces are referred to as 'Stuffer Pins' (Part # EBC9606) and I found them for a little over $8 a piece (2 needed on XKR's). A stuffer pin is a white plastic pin with the necessary quick disconnect cages, o-rings etc in place for 'stuffing' into the coupling. I would highly recommend replacing them while the tank is out to avoid the metal fatigue issues I experienced.....

Tim

 

I basically bought some 1" mild steel tube from Home Depot (nothing special), cut away half of it for about 6 inches (so the cross-section is now a 'c' rather than an 'o'), and bent the tube, about 1ft back from the 'c', by about 20 degrees downward. This enables you to get the 'c' end up and into the quick release coupling - you may need to experiment with the radius of the 'c' to get it to fit into the coupling, and the bend to make it possible to manipulate it from under the differential, some way back from the coupling. Try to make the 'c' as close to your Sears removal tool in diameter as possible. You need to push this tool into the coupling (rearwards), at the same time as pulling the fuel pipe away from the coupling (or 'forwards' towards the front of the car).

I would recommend axle stands on their highest setting, and lying on your back with your feet out under the rear bumper and the differential above your chest. It's not in any way comfortable, but it is do-able eventually. In my other reply I recommended changing the coupling components too. While you have the tank out it's best to do it. The tank is a struggle to get in and out and you don't want to have to do it twice. You cannot replace these components in-situ as there is not enough room.

As a side note, if you google 'EBC9606 Stuffer Pin", the eighth link (jaguarvp.blogspot.com) has a description of the stuffer pin and cross-sectional views of the coupling, explaining what you are trying to achieve. It is quite helpful.

Good luck! Where are you based? If it's anywhere near San Diego let me know....

 

I'm based on the other side of the Country West of Philadelphia PA.
Experiencing a major snow storm. At least that gives me a little time to order the Stuffer Pins.
I appreciate your help

 

Is your tank still fastened to the body of the car as you are trying to remove the fuel lines? Is it possible that the tank is floating as you are trying to use the release from under the car? Another thought is to lift the tank just high enough to allow you to use the fuel line release tool from inside the trunk.

 

Hi all. Thankyou in advance for any help.

I'm not sure exactly which jag I'm working on but it is an 8 cylinder. The fuel tank had been removed and the original stuffer pins broken in the process. (Didn't know about all this when I started but learning quickly) Have the new factory stuffer pins as pictured elsewhere with the 2 seals and yellow and brown o rings. Went to install the stuffer pins and clip as supplied into the bottom of the tank before re installing and they wouldn't go in. Is there a chance the original seals and o rings are still in the tank stopping them from installing properly? If so, can these safely be pulled with a small hook or pliers?
I currently have the o rings and clip on the fuel lines under the car. Can I use the fuel lines like the stuffer pin or do I need to remove them and use the supplied plastic tool to insert the o rings into the tank and then insert the fuel lines afterward? Again, much appreciated for your help

 

Johnathan, Don't forget, this thread is 1+ year old and 2 pages long. You may get more traction by launching a new thread to ask for help in your situation. Many may not read all 20+ posts to find your new question mate.

 

I would just like to mention that once I had the fuel line removal fitting inserted (pushing in both sides with an extra long HF flathead screwdriver) I had better luck pulling the gas tank gently away from the fitting than trying to reach up and in and pull the line away from the gas tank.

I have now reinstalled the tank and it is leaking at one or both connections. It didn't leak with 5 gallons of gas (inspected, drove two miles and re-inspected), but when I filled it up it started to leak. I hope I don't need to mention how dangerous it is driving a car with gas leaking on the Cat heat shields... I left it overnight and in the morning I was down to 7/8 tank and no longer leaking. I drove around the block and started leaking again. More than dripping, a tiny stream.

I spent some time insuring that the fuel lines are in all the way and caught, but they still leak only when driving (not pressurized when engine off so stop leaking after a bit.). Now of course I wish I had inspected the connection and replaced the stuffer pins and / or seals but it seemed unlikely they were an issue (only disconnected once...).

Now I am looking at doing the job all over again. I guess its possible I damaged the stuffer pins moving the tank away from the connection but I didn't pull hard or feel hardly any resistance. I have built two tools but have the best luck snapping the quick disconnect fitting (with string) on the bottom of the pipe with my skinnier left hand and two longest fingers, then working it up and in with a very long (24"+) flathead screwdriver.

It is hard to see if the harder to access inlet is lined up sufficiently to insert - it appears to be at a slight angle. I inserted it with the quick disconnect in place to help align it and protect the connection but don't know if it helped.

I don't know if I can stomach taking it out again, cleaning up the fittings, and reistalling it to find it still leaking. If I install gas line extensions behind the tank I can probably test it on 2x4's angled in my trunk or at least pull it out easily if it leaks again.