Fuse 3 and Alarm
#1
Fuse 3 and Alarm
Happy Saturday (or not...)
I am a spoilt amateur mechanic, having dripped blood from my knuckles on many a Haynes manual, so I am struggling with not having a Haynes for my "new" XKR (2000) RHD.
I have plundered t'internet and got a fair bit of info., but now I could do with a bit of help (please). If I tell a short story it will list my observations in order:
(the only cat???)
I am a spoilt amateur mechanic, having dripped blood from my knuckles on many a Haynes manual, so I am struggling with not having a Haynes for my "new" XKR (2000) RHD.
I have plundered t'internet and got a fair bit of info., but now I could do with a bit of help (please). If I tell a short story it will list my observations in order:
- a month ago the alarm went off in the works car park, then the sounder failed permanently, so it no longer sounds when I lock the doors
- a few weeks ago I was clipped by a lorry on the front left, minor damage, no inertia activation, no airbag activation, didn't even break the headlamp or foglamp
- isurance repairers fixed my car
- immediately before the accident the heater was generating loads of heat
- immediately after the accident (car was drivable) the heater was cold
- I told the body shop about the heater and they thought they fixed it, but I suspect that they noted the low heat available above 40mph without the pump
- after I got the car back I noticed that the Foglamps, Heated Seats and Traction Control also do not work
- I have found Fuse 3 blown, but when replaced it blows when the ignition is turned on.
- I think that the alarm sounder unit was failing and the bump caused something to short, possibly internal (I have seen the photo's of the state the NiCads get into), does that sound right? Or is it likely to be coincidence (I know - anything can be coincidence)?
- Which side is the alarm sounder unit on a RHD car?
- Does anybody have any diagrams or photo's of how it actually looks?
- What is the best way to disconnect the alarm sounder unit?
- Stuff I read suggest that Fuse 3 is 5amp, mine is 10amp and the spares still have very old sellotape holding them in (original Jaguar or first owner?) and none missing (until today), should I be worried?
(the only cat???)
#2
Yes, Fuse No 3 should be 5A. It protects the Active Alarm sounder and the heater water pump among a number of other things. That sounder is known usually to fail to ground so may well be the cause of your fuse blowing.
It is located behind the righthand headlight and you'll have to remove the wheelarch liner to get access. IIRC you can just unplug it until it's repaired or replaced.
There's easy access to the wiring diagrams (and much more!) at JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Note that the security system wiring diagram was not published in the MY 2000 edition, so use the MY2003, page 13.2
It is located behind the righthand headlight and you'll have to remove the wheelarch liner to get access. IIRC you can just unplug it until it's repaired or replaced.
There's easy access to the wiring diagrams (and much more!) at JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Note that the security system wiring diagram was not published in the MY 2000 edition, so use the MY2003, page 13.2
#3
I found I was able to get to and remove the alarm unit through the access hatch (for the front foglight) in the liner. Currently the alarm unit is sitting on my workbench as I'm about to remove the rechargable batteries in it and replace with new ones.a
R
R
Last edited by ralphy; 02-07-2016 at 04:45 PM.
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B o B (02-08-2016)
#4
#5
I'll report back on how it goes.
R
The following users liked this post:
B o B (02-09-2016)
#6
Thank You astromorg & ralphy
I will try and post pics when it is done, if I manage to get my heater back!
Interestingly; the heater works fine above 60 mph, just not at slow speed. This suggests to me that the main water pump just isn't pumping hard enough at low engine speed to get the heater matrix warm. I wonder if the electric pump was original design or a fix?
I will try and post pics when it is done, if I manage to get my heater back!
Interestingly; the heater works fine above 60 mph, just not at slow speed. This suggests to me that the main water pump just isn't pumping hard enough at low engine speed to get the heater matrix warm. I wonder if the electric pump was original design or a fix?
#7
Electric pump (and associated electric valve) are the original design. It's a fairly sophisticated system - the pump runs pretty much all the time and the valve is "software driven" to regulate the temperature in the car according to the various inputs to the Climate Control 'Computer'.
Just a pity they decided to put it in such an inaccessible place !!
Just a pity they decided to put it in such an inaccessible place !!
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