MIKE, YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. Evidently my eyes must have failed me in tracing and read the schmatic (I am starting my 75th year today). While in general, I still think that you have a bad connection (voltage division), I did indeed, steer us down at least one wrong path (no pun intended). Please accept my apologies.
I still think that you are close to the solution.

 

De rien, doc.
They're not the easist thing to trace- especially on a laptop.

I'm not that far behind you, and I've been searching for a pair of NOS eyeballs for a few years now...

Happy birthday, btw

 

thanks for the illustration. Will do. It might be a couple of days before I check back in with results. My old back injury does a significant “flare-up” after a couple of days in the saddle. Which serves to slow does my initiative.

Z

 

Security and Locking Control Module : where is it ?

I thought it would be easy to locate, as I read on forum that it was in front of the battery. Not there that I can tell.

Any pointers appreciated, if by chance it’s under the trunk fuse box, what is the procedure for taking out the box ?

thanks to all

Z

 

Z:
On my convertible, it is under the trunk fuses. Page # 22 (LHD) of my manual does not differentiate location for coupe / conv.
I have never pulled that (programable ) module. Good luck!

 

Pulling off the fuse block must not be too difficult, but moving up the lever at the inboard end doesn’t seem to accomplish much.

Hopefully fresh eyes tomorrow will see more.

Z

 

It may be wise to go over this thread before getting too far into this module. I have always found Steve and Gus to be trustworthy.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-module-89366/

 

well taken. I was only going to check for voltage in - voltage out of the pins that michaelh suggested to do in the previous post, #20


. Will not be opening up the module in any case.

Just need to get eyes on target and see how difficult it will be to access the two wires in question.

Z

 

It is a bit of a pain to get to, and the high-current connection gets in the way.
If it's the same as mine, there are two bolts holding the fusebox into the boot floor, and one on the RHS higher up.

I guess you could measure on the Red/White at BTS7 and BTS40 before diving in, if you can find them. The EG is silent on their location other than BT=boot/trunk

Watch out for the fob antenna connection on the rear of the SLM

 

was able to get to the module once I found the instruct for the fuse block removal ( pull up lever and then slide fuse block towards the opposite side of car). But after the fact realized that the fuse block can remain in place, just need to disconnect the power line that feeds it.

and yes, there are three bolts holding the whole assembly to the body of car, plus the antenna connector. Once those are removed the whole she-bang can be flipped over and the module will pop out of the plastic framework.

Here’s where I chickened out, at least for now. I am hesitant to to all of the above with the power hooked back up to the fuse block and the battery connected as well. And the power needs to be -on- so I can test for 12v in and 12v out of the module.

As a last resort I’ll do that 12v test at the module with it powered up. But for now, I’m going to start taking off the wiring insulation, starting at each rear side marker. And keep going until I find the place of obvious high resistance which would account for my 4v with bulbs out and 0v with one bulb in place.

tedious, but at no risk of damaging the module, which is my main concern with probing its connectors with it powered on.

Z

 

Opened all the wiring right up to the SLCM. The voltage coming directly out of the module is only 3-4 volts. I’m done with the troubleshooting. No way am I messing with the module internals just to have the factory wiring activate the rear running lights.


So I hacked the wiring. Sorry if that offends some. Actually it offends me too, but I did it anyway in the interest of necessity.

The rear running lights are now on with power fed directly from the taillights. If the -check rear lights- warning ever comes on I’ll just have to live with it. So far, it never has.

thank you for all the pointers.. it would be impossible to own this car without the forum and the members who are generous with their time and knowledge.

Z

 

I understand your hesitation.
Do you know anyone who is proficient working on circuit boards? It's not a difficult repair and the parts won't set you back more than a couple of dollars.

How did you jumper the power for the side markers? If it's direct from the tail lamps, I'd recommend changing the side marker bulbs to LEDs, since there will be extra load on the tail lamp monitoring circuits inside the SLM in that scenario.

I fitted them in all my side markers (the rears aren't monitored in the earlier cars). There's a bonus that they don't run hot, which helps preserve the plastic sockets.

 

great suggestion !! Thank you for the observation.

I’m ordering them right now .


Z

PS not a peep out the SCLM so far, but why chance it. I am expecting it to inform me at some point that the -rear lights-should be checked, as the rear side markers are no longer being powered by the original side marker monitoring circuit. We’ll see.

 

Glad to see that you have your marker lights back (and that you did not brick your SLM as Graham warned against).
Happy Motoring