Thanks. I must be in an excellent mood today because all of this seems like fun. Learning a lot. So long as the car doesn't leave you stranded (or clean out your bank account), it's all good.

 

For P0445, I would suspect the purge valve.

 

I started smelling fuel today. It seems to have arrived along with my P0171 and P0174 codes. are the two things related? I have a 2002 xkr. Im about to search for those codes and see what the possible fixes are. The fuel smell bothers me more than the check engine light so I figured Id tackle that first. Also, there is a line that runs just inside the passenger side rear wheel that looks as if if may have been damaged from a flat at one time. Does that go to the purge valve/or canister in the rear? Its a hard line.

 

yesterday I changed my fuel filter because I read that low fuel pressure could cause the two above mentioned codes along with the cannister that wont purge. I paid 10.99 for my filter. the fuel that came out was black and generally nasty and unacceptable. I bought the iridium plugs from the dealer but the check engine light went out right after I changed the filter while on my way to pick up the plugs. I didnt have any air intake leaks. Thanks to all the great people who provide input to this forum

 

Good dealio, easy fix.

 

Hi gents.
I have recently begun to smell gas in cabin with heater on as well as in the engine bay. After tracing the odor I found the issue to be a junction of some sort near the fuel pressure relieve valve. I am attaching a picture for better understanding and hope to get some feedback on whether I am facing a simple seal failure or worse.
Thank you in advance for any insight...helpful or not

Best,
Danny.

 

It is a pressure regulator, are you sure it is coming from it? You have a fuel rail that goes down both sides of the engine.

Have you looked at the EVAP system on the car? It has been the most common problem with the odor of fuel.

Link to TSB http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/303-63.pdf

 

Hi GUS. Thanks so much for the prompt response and identification of the part in question.
I am absolutely sure that it's the pressure regulator as you can see for yourself from another picture taken while the car was running which enables the leak due to pressurizing of the system. Sadly, I am unable to find replacement seal only, and the whole new part (featuring seals ) goes for around $200. I will try to take it apart this weekend and substitute the failed seal ring with generic option should I find one . You have not happened to take this part apart before by any chance, have you ?
Thanks once again!

 

Test the valve first. Check the pressure with the engine ru nnung should be around 34+/- a few then remove the vacuum hose and see if the pressure goes up to around 40+/- a few. In going this test you will know if it is working properly.

 

If you go to a hydraulic shop they may have what you are looking for but be sure you tell them that you are using it in the fuel system. The reason for the test is that if the regulator is working properly if not then you are forced into getting a new one. No I have not taken one apart.

 

I chased it for 6 months. i hope what i suggest is not a wild goose chase but...
in the trunk remove the back carpet. You will see a metal sheet the length of the trunk that covers the gas tank behind the seats. 4 bolts or so removes it. Then you will see some houses that go to the gas tank fill etc. I had a small hose that vents fumes to the fill disconnected. 45 min job.

 

Gas smell in cabin. The dreaded full pump has been replaced.....I know. Super human powers. It is so strong it makes me feel ill. I can even drop the top and you can STILL smell it. It smells worse when the air is on recycle. Where do I start?

 

Did the problem start right after the fuel pump was replaced?

 

Danny, I had this problem a few months ago. You should first try fitting some new O-rings. If that doesn't fix it, the cheapest fuel injection pressure regulator can be had at rockauto.com for $150 and it includes the O-rings.

In my case, the new O-rings I bought at auto zone didn't solve my problem. Yes, I got the leak to stop, but the regulator was bust. So I had to buy a new one.

Tell me something, how many cranks does your car take on a cold start? If it usually takes a disconcerting 5 - 10 cranks the regulator, given the leak, is probably dying.