Gear Shift Knob replacement
#1
#2
#3
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Thanks, FJT.
The leather knob does turn easily but does not come off. As you said, there is a tapered chrome spacer (about three inches long) below the knob and that does not turn at all but it does have four indents in it as if a tool is required to turn it.
Any suggestions, or should I ask a tech at my dealer to remove it?
I'd be dangerous if I owned a ten thousand dollars worth of tools!!
The leather knob does turn easily but does not come off. As you said, there is a tapered chrome spacer (about three inches long) below the knob and that does not turn at all but it does have four indents in it as if a tool is required to turn it.
Any suggestions, or should I ask a tech at my dealer to remove it?
I'd be dangerous if I owned a ten thousand dollars worth of tools!!
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#4
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It takesus about ten times that amount of tools. LOL
People dont realizethe investment we make to our careers.
Does the knob seperate from the spacer? It takes many many turns to get it off.
The spacer stays on. There is nothing else to do. Just unscrew it.
People dont realizethe investment we make to our careers.
Does the knob seperate from the spacer? It takes many many turns to get it off.
The spacer stays on. There is nothing else to do. Just unscrew it.
#5
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I must be doing something wrong. The knob just turns forever and nothing happens. The next time I bring the car in for a PM, I'll ask one of the techs to remove it and install the wooden knob. I'm afraid I'll just screw something up! ![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm sure you have far more than 10K worth of tools, FJT. I work with some techs in the trucking industry and I know what an incredible investment those guys have to spend to do their craft well. I also see how the technology keeps changing and for a tech to stay on top of things thereare constant classes they have to attend. Unfortunately, there is a huge shortage of techs in the trucking industry right now.
I remember a talk I had with the owner of a Peterbilt dealership in New York. He told me he was invited to speak at a Vocational school on Long Island and when he got there the Dean gave him a tour of the school. He stopped at one of the classrooms that said "Diesel Mechanics" and he asked the Dean how many students were enrolled and the Dean told him about 20. He then passed a classroom that said "Computer Technicians" and he was told there were over 100 students enrolled in that class. Well, it makes sense. A student can graduate as a Computer tech, buy 300 dollars worth of tools and he is good to go. A diesel tech has to spend a small fortune in tools, work outside at times, get dirty, and have all kinds of crazy hours. The industry is starting to be aware that they will have to reward the diesel techs quite a bit more if they are going to attract the numbers needed.
![Big Grin](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm sure you have far more than 10K worth of tools, FJT. I work with some techs in the trucking industry and I know what an incredible investment those guys have to spend to do their craft well. I also see how the technology keeps changing and for a tech to stay on top of things thereare constant classes they have to attend. Unfortunately, there is a huge shortage of techs in the trucking industry right now.
I remember a talk I had with the owner of a Peterbilt dealership in New York. He told me he was invited to speak at a Vocational school on Long Island and when he got there the Dean gave him a tour of the school. He stopped at one of the classrooms that said "Diesel Mechanics" and he asked the Dean how many students were enrolled and the Dean told him about 20. He then passed a classroom that said "Computer Technicians" and he was told there were over 100 students enrolled in that class. Well, it makes sense. A student can graduate as a Computer tech, buy 300 dollars worth of tools and he is good to go. A diesel tech has to spend a small fortune in tools, work outside at times, get dirty, and have all kinds of crazy hours. The industry is starting to be aware that they will have to reward the diesel techs quite a bit more if they are going to attract the numbers needed.
#6
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I am new to this Jaguar forum and I am also new to owning a jag so I am afraid I will be mostly asking rather then giving information. On the other hand if you should need some info on Triumph TR4 to TR6 there is not a whole lot I do not know about them. Needless to say I have moved up to a roadster that is a little more sedate in ride and significantly faster.
I also own a 2004 XKR, have recently purchased a new shift knob, and am having the same problem getting the old knob off. I have tried turning it and turning it and it will not unscrew. I noticed when I turn it there is a slight rough feeling as if it were going over some very small bumps. I have also tried pulling up on it when I turn it but again to no avail. I do not want to take it into the dealer for something as mundane as a shift knob, to tell the truth I would really feel a bit embarrassed.
Any assistance with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter.
I also own a 2004 XKR, have recently purchased a new shift knob, and am having the same problem getting the old knob off. I have tried turning it and turning it and it will not unscrew. I noticed when I turn it there is a slight rough feeling as if it were going over some very small bumps. I have also tried pulling up on it when I turn it but again to no avail. I do not want to take it into the dealer for something as mundane as a shift knob, to tell the truth I would really feel a bit embarrassed.
Any assistance with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter.
#7
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Thank you for your prompt reply, it is appreciated.
I screwed it 20 times without the slightest amount of upward movement. I have tried pulling up very hard while unscrewing it but again to no avail. By any chance is there a set screw under the leather fascia on the shift knob? There is a roughness when I try to unscrew the knob that feels as if a set screw were not letting it follow the threads upward.
Cecil
I screwed it 20 times without the slightest amount of upward movement. I have tried pulling up very hard while unscrewing it but again to no avail. By any chance is there a set screw under the leather fascia on the shift knob? There is a roughness when I try to unscrew the knob that feels as if a set screw were not letting it follow the threads upward.
Cecil
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#9
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The XK8s just have a 3/4 inck locknut below the knob, and screw right off (just like a TR6). The XK8s have a wooden knob that is plain and doesn't match the burl dash, so alot of them get replaced. I haven't ever looked at an XKR shifter knob, but it sounds different... The XKR manual states:
Remove the selector lever knob.Slacken the ferrule, rotate clockwise.Rotate the knob counter-clockwise to remove.
Remove the selector lever knob.Slacken the ferrule, rotate clockwise.Rotate the knob counter-clockwise to remove.
#10
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thanks, I got the old knob off and screwed the new matching custom knob on....seems though, that the jag emblem on the top is centered but it faces the dash instead of the interior of car....i tried with and without the spacer but to no avail...maybe superglue 1/2 turn away would work..but is there any other way?....it 's no fun being this clueless over something seemingly so simple.....Thanks again REMOSUSA....
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Last edited by jarhead75; 05-20-2009 at 08:36 PM. Reason: spelled remosusa wrong
#11
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I just got my 2004 XKR back from being serviced by the jag dealer. Among the things I asked them to look at was my inability to remove the stock shift knob for which I have a replacement. Here is what he did and said regarding this manner.
The existing factory shift know had been put on to tight and the threads were partially stripped out. He got the old shift knob off, dressed the threads and put the new shift knob on.
The assembly, at least on my XKR consisted of 3 parts. A lower tapered part that is internally threaded and has 3 dimples, each off set 120 degrees. I think they are to hold the tool to unscrew this tapered part. There was a thin washer that goes above this and below the shift knob. Lastly the shift knob. I am not sure about the need for the washer but the way the assembly is designed to work is as follows: 1) You screw on the tapered (cone shaped) part narrow end pointing down. 2) You drop on the washer, which they did not replace as there does not appear to be any reason for it with the new knob. 3) You screw on the new shift knob.
Your screw the new shift know down until it is secure and the emblem, logo, etc. is facing in the desired direction. You then screw the tapered part back up the shift column until it is snug against the new shift knob. Lastly using a special tool you grip the 3 indentations and snug the tapered part tight against the shift knob. This locks the knob in position.
On my jag they had to physically pull the old shift head off the internal metal sleeve which in turn is threaded on the inside. This sleeve is knurled so the head presses down hard on it and then will not move. The shift know is pulled straight up to remove it. Once the shift know is off you can then use what ever tool(s) is necessary to separate the tapered cone and the internal metal sleeve of the shift knob and then unscrew the the internal metal sleeve and the tapered cone assembly. When they did mine they damaged the tapered cone assembly, I do not think they had the correct tool to initially dislodge it so it could be unscrewed.
My replacement was done by Jaguar Land Rover in Lynnwood, WA. I would with out hesitation recommend the quality and honesty of their work to any one.
I hope this helps in some small way in resolving your shift knob change out. I might add the new know looks really great.
The existing factory shift know had been put on to tight and the threads were partially stripped out. He got the old shift knob off, dressed the threads and put the new shift knob on.
The assembly, at least on my XKR consisted of 3 parts. A lower tapered part that is internally threaded and has 3 dimples, each off set 120 degrees. I think they are to hold the tool to unscrew this tapered part. There was a thin washer that goes above this and below the shift knob. Lastly the shift knob. I am not sure about the need for the washer but the way the assembly is designed to work is as follows: 1) You screw on the tapered (cone shaped) part narrow end pointing down. 2) You drop on the washer, which they did not replace as there does not appear to be any reason for it with the new knob. 3) You screw on the new shift knob.
Your screw the new shift know down until it is secure and the emblem, logo, etc. is facing in the desired direction. You then screw the tapered part back up the shift column until it is snug against the new shift knob. Lastly using a special tool you grip the 3 indentations and snug the tapered part tight against the shift knob. This locks the knob in position.
On my jag they had to physically pull the old shift head off the internal metal sleeve which in turn is threaded on the inside. This sleeve is knurled so the head presses down hard on it and then will not move. The shift know is pulled straight up to remove it. Once the shift know is off you can then use what ever tool(s) is necessary to separate the tapered cone and the internal metal sleeve of the shift knob and then unscrew the the internal metal sleeve and the tapered cone assembly. When they did mine they damaged the tapered cone assembly, I do not think they had the correct tool to initially dislodge it so it could be unscrewed.
My replacement was done by Jaguar Land Rover in Lynnwood, WA. I would with out hesitation recommend the quality and honesty of their work to any one.
I hope this helps in some small way in resolving your shift knob change out. I might add the new know looks really great.
Last edited by Cecil; 05-21-2009 at 06:19 PM.
#14
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Does anyone know where I can get the metal spacer at the bottom of the knob?
Mine was missing when I bought my car and I am unable to find one on net. Looks like the dealer is the only way.
I too am going to get a knob the more closely matchs the dash wood and shows a lot more style.
Mine was missing when I bought my car and I am unable to find one on net. Looks like the dealer is the only way.
I too am going to get a knob the more closely matchs the dash wood and shows a lot more style.
#15
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Thank you,
I am so silly, I did not know it was called a jam nut and when I put it in as the search, it came up and I found it on Jag Bits.
Even though I was able to find it, I am happy to know you are all there to help and I hope one day to be able to do the same for someone as well.
Again,
Thank you for taking your time to help me.
I am so silly, I did not know it was called a jam nut and when I put it in as the search, it came up and I found it on Jag Bits.
Even though I was able to find it, I am happy to know you are all there to help and I hope one day to be able to do the same for someone as well.
Again,
Thank you for taking your time to help me.
#17
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I am having a similar issue with my XKR. I have a knob from my XK8. They are all supposed to have a 8mm thread. My shifter shaft with the kinob removed is "nothched". The new walnut burl knob thread is to small to fit the "notched" shaft. So, even if there is a threaded piece to place over the notched shaft, it would still be to big to fit the 8 mm thread? Anyone else ever run into this issue? Any solutions out there?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
#18
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Are you certain that you mean 'notched', which would imply grooves? Maybe you mean the shaft is swedged or has 'ears' on it? If so, I would suspect you are looking at the remainder of the knob core which is still threaded onto the shaft.
My car came with a leather knob, installed by the p.o., and was so tight on the threads that I just sliced it off with a power tool.
My car came with a leather knob, installed by the p.o., and was so tight on the threads that I just sliced it off with a power tool.
#19
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Just did mine - got ahold of the leather knob with a pair of channel lock piers and got it to come up about a quarter of an inch before the rubber stripped out from the metal core. Split it with a hobby knife, and pulled the rubber off. Then got the channel locks on the metal core to come off. Buh-bye ugly red / green logo'd tan leather and chrome shift knob. Hello burled walnut with a red growler "classy' knob!!
#20