+1, absolutely I agree! You are one dedicated diagnostician.

 

See attached for a view inside the spindle, with the tone ring removed, and the tone ring itself.

I stuck with it because it really stinks to have a car like this and never know when it's going to conk out on you.

I actually feel like a schmuck for not finding this a month or more ago. I got too caught up in chasing the electronics. I did check out the wheel bearing back when I first found that the noise was coming from the left rear wheel. It seemed a tiny bit loose, but not terribly bad like it was this weekend. I guess the axle nut kept working loose.

 

For Fk sake dont beat yourself up about not finding fault sooner!
I work on the Big Yellow Supposedly "Bullet proof" American engines, you know the ones, get the same thing all the time, follow the "Proceedure" and when that dosn,t work look again! eventually I get to the fault, fix it... then you have some paperpusher, just out of nappies(Diapers to you yanks) but still shttng yellow, looks at the final fix and says...."Is that all it was" !!
Hold my hands someone!!!
Good job, well done, you,ve learned so much from this and no money in the world can buy that experience, plus you found the butchered wiring that could have caused an even more catastrophic failure i.e Fire

Best regards
Bob

 

never dug that deep, so don't know exactly what I am looking at in the pics, but the ring on the 3rd pic was loose...and it should have been pressed into pic 2 to look like pic 1?

 

Basically that is the back of the spindle. The axle is detached and the part that faces out, where the brake disc goes, is parallel to the ground and you are looking down at it. The top where the wheel speed sensor goes is sort of towards the lower right of the pictures. You are basically looking in where the axle normally goes into the hub, from the inside of the car out towards the wheel.

The first pic shows it just after the axle is removed, the second pic shows the same view with the tone ring removed, and the third pic is the tone ring on the ground.

The tone ring is suppose to be a pressed fit into there, and therefore I shouldn't have been able to pull it out with my fingertips.

 

This calls for a Wiser clap!!

Not sure if it’s a Canadian thing (commercial is where the guy purposely rips the knitted sweater to get out of wearing it, then a group of secret dudes start a slow clap!)
Either way BRAVO on finding it!!!

 

ok andy how about this my trans makes a skipping noise seemingly from the torque converter and on initial start rides pretty good but still has the noise
now it seems to me if there is a mechanical fault that it would always be present. you seem to have gone through a lot what do you think about the issues im having

 

Congrats on finding the culprit!
What is the fix after the find? Do you need to buy any parts for the repair?
Can it be pressed back together?

 

I fought my way through my issue, but I am far from a trans expert. I still consider them enigmatic black boxes which operate by witchcraft and sorcery.

I am curious about your skipping sound. I take it to mean that it is rhythmic, and seems to follow the engine RPM? Does it happen in all gears? Only when the car is moving? Change with vehicle speed rather than engine speed?

Some mechanical faults would not always be present. As things heat up and expand things can change.

As to my situation, since the tone ring is suppose to be a pressed fit onto the hub, one of the two (or both) of those is worn beyond use. The tone ring definitely looks messed up in places. The list price for either of those two parts is over $300. So looking at close to $700 + the new bearing, plus install, to fix up my spindle - I just bought a used spindle and hub assembly for $70.

I was surprised that the tone ring also fell from the hub easily on this lower mileage unit. However neither of these parts look worn, and the fit is much tighter than on my car. They might have just come apart as we were wrestling the spindle from the rest of the rear suspension. The axle didn't want to come apart as easily as my car did.

So I plan to take this used assembly to the dealer and ask them nicely to press a new bearing into it, then I'll swap the whole shebang onto my car. In the meantime I put my car back together with the original parts, and cranked the bearing nut down to the 300 N-M spec. I plan to leave it parked as much as possible until I can swap the new one on.

 

Andy
Your doing the job........ do you think this problem has been caused by a botched job from a previous owner or their agent, or a "wear and tear" failure from the factory? Noticed lack of lubrication on shaft spline. Was there any indication of previous work? Whats your best guess?
Bob

 

Although I am not sure what to believe from the previous owner, he did say that he had the rear shocks changed. He did mention the occasional ABS / traction warning that cleared out after an ignition cycle, but said that had been going on since he got the car.

I think what caused it was the nut being loose and allowing the parts inside the hub to move in and out a lot more than they should. That begs the next question, Why was the nut loose? I'm not sure if the bearing wore out and that clearance allowed the nut to start to loosen. Or perhaps there was work done, and the nut was not re-torqued properly.

Truth be told the axle splines show some wear as well, from the slight movement in and out of the hub I imagine. The dry iron dust from the parts wearing is all around in there. I'm not sure why the lack of lubrication. Perhaps with everything not fitting tightly in there the grease has long since been slung out of there...

 

wow

 

The dreaded "Fighting Gerbils" I can't stop giggeling. Love it

 

Andy94SC,
Your thread has helped me so much so far to point me in the right direction. However, I'm now stuck, and looking for help.

I have a 2001 XJR that will pop into neutral sometimes, just like yours. The difference for me is that I noticed that the speedometer behaves erratically just before the transmission malfunctions.

While cruising, or accelerating I will watch as the speedometer needle moves gradually backwards even though I am accelerating or maintaining a constant speed. Then the speedometer will then quickly jump back up, and the tranny pops into neutral, or a lower gear.



When it pops into neutral, the car coasts, and it will often pop back into gear as the car slows down, however, I have also had a few times when I had to come to a complete stop and turn off/restart the car to get it to go back into gear.



I think this behavior is consistent with your theory/solution where the tranny's speed calculation gets messed up by a faulty speed sensor, and the TCM throws the tranny into neutral or the last known good gear. It also correlates to that tech bulletin that you posted that states that the tranny is programmed to do this, and will go back into gear at 18mph.

So, I am convinced that it is a speed sensor, and in fact, is one that affects the speedometer. Now the problem is that I don't know which one. I don't have access to the very expensive Vehicle Spy program, so I took it to a Jag dealer hoping they would have a live data diagnostic tool like Vehicle Spy. They have driven it a couple times, but the car has not misbehaved for them. Additionally, it doesn't sound like they are using any sort of live diagnostic tool. I'm frustrated, knowing that if I had the tool, I could pinpoint the signal issue, and just replace the faulty part. The dealer is already talking about replacing the whole tranny! Forget that.

Is there any other more affordable live data diagnostic tool that will help me "see" the sensor signals?

Or, does anyone know which sensors feed the speedometer on the dash?

If it's just one sensor, then I think I could start with that at least. The problem is that I don't know how many speed sensors there are, or where they are. I understand that there may actually be some speed sensors inside the tranny. Does anyone know?

Any help would be much appreciated.

P.S. Did the tone ring fix end up fully fixing your issue? It sounds like it probably did, but I didn't see an post stating that explictly.

 

Well, the dealer thinks they found the issue. Guess what it is. The left rear ABS ring wasn't moving with the wheel while up on the lift. Sounds familiar.

Unfortunately, the repair is not cheap. $422 for parts (ring and new wheel bearing), and $475 for labor (dealer rates, yuck).

I asked if I could come by and see the problem with the car on the lift, and they said I could, so I plan to take pics, and will try to share.

 

Sorry, I haven't checked in on this in a while. Life has been upside down for a while, and I sold the XKR about a year ago. But to let everyone know, since replacing that rear knuckle I never saw another problem from the trans, ABS or traction systems. That was it for sure.

I assume since there are no more postings to the contrary that Fast Cat had the exact same issue.

 

Just had the exact same problem on my 2000 XKR - found it yesterday 6/23/13 - timely with your recent posting. Found the LR hub nut 1/2 to 1 turn loose. Removed speed sensor & found ABS ring slightly loose when probed with screwdriver, tightened hub nut, then ABS ring could not be moved with the screwdriver thru the sensor hole. Have not had the problem or P0730 in the ~40-50 miles driven since.

However, now I have a chirping from the LR wheel only on right turns or right curves at speed, as soon as pressure off the steering wheel the chirp goes away. I'm guessing minor clearance issue when spring is compressed possibly caused by prior loose hub nut & something (rotor splash shield?) slightly scraping. Any thoughts/ideas?

Also, when you replaced your hub carrier, did you use one from an XKR or XK8? The JEPC parts catalog calls out a different hub carrier part # for the XKR but other parts look the same, so I'm trying to determine whether an XK8 carrier will work for my XKR.

Thanks!

 

I purcased a remanufactured trans, and replaced all timing chain etc... ben ywo years sitting. Finally rolling

 

Ed,
The carrier, hub and everything I used came from a standard XK8. I had no issues installing it. I am not sure why they would be different.

As far as the chirping on turns I would bet your wheel bearing is going bad. It is making noise as it gets loaded differently on turns. If it is wearing out that could explain the clearance that caused your ring to be loose, or maybe the loose hub nut that let the ring be loose has caused the bearing to wear. Either way I think you should look hard at that wheel bearing.

 

Last week I borrowed a torque wrench with enough torque to get the hub nut tightened to spec (224 - 248 ft-lbs) and the nut turned only about 30 degrees and the squeal is now totally gone. Have driven it over 400 miles since with no issues. Each night when I get home from work (70 mile round trip) I jack it up and check the wheel tightness and rotation and it is fine, so hopefully no bearing damage - but - I am going to keep checking it regularly to be sure and if any signs of problems I will go the hub & carrier replacement route.

Thanks for the feedback!