It should be around 42psi

 

Looks good! Also list the S-Type if you still have it.

 

Does that mean I also need a fuel pressure regulator with it being 10 psi below? Also, I do not have the S-type anymore. I sold it last year (2011)

 

vance580 came and installed the fuel rail pressure sensor. The car turned on and tons of white cloudy smoke came out for a while emptying the fuel, then it was good from there. Also, the original Fuel Rail Pressure sensor that came with my car was a Ford part. The part number is 3R3E 9F972 AA. If there those numbers don't make sense, let me know, there are other numbers on the part. Now to figure out what to do with the gearbox fault and the rest of the issues

 

I would at this time reset them and see what takes place.

 

I've reset the codes. I've had P0171 show up. I went to get food and fill up gas and on the way back I had restricted performance come up a few times. When it did, once my car would reach 3000 rpm (only going 45 mph with my gearbox fault issue) The car would shake. It kinda just comes and goes

 

The restricted performance light does exactly what it says it restricts the engine from going over 2500/3000 rpm so the results would be what you are getting (shacking and no power) when you try to make it go higher or faster. Do not interpret the shaking as a transmission problem until you get all the codes. You have a typo on your code is it P0171 that you were trying to say? If no codes exist now can you plug your OBDII reader in and drive the car? If you can you need to do this until you get the flash of a check engine or restricted performance light if you are lucky you will have a code stored and you need to tell us what that is. Give us the codes!

 

Restricted performance is a protective measure for your engine and transmission. Don't fight it, its supposed to help you.

When you do get it, you need to find out why, its pretty serious at that stage. P0171 is a lean condiiton, meaning you have air leaks - excessive valve cover gasket leaks could very well be the problem.

You've got multiple issues, making troubleshooting at this point, very hard. Once one problem shows up, you should really try to fix it, as it only compounds the difficulty when another, possibly related, possibly not - code is generated, and symptoms result.

As for your transmission, I can only tell you what happened to mine (albeit briefly). Also a 2003, had 149,000+ miles on her, when I had a progressive worsening incorrect gear ratio fault, however mine was a 5th gear fault, not 3rd like yours. A TCM update and adaptations clearing didn't fix my problem. It came down to mechanical, so I had my transmission rebuilt by a very good shop, using ZF parts, and he also worked on my valve body with upgraded Sonnax valves. After new clutch plates, torque converter and all the extra work, it still didn't fix the gear ration problem. Going on a hunch, he put my TCM on a core S-type valve body he had in stock, and my problem was gone. He then proceeded to rebuild the valve body, just as he did my original one, as the main pressure regulator wears over time and this was a 'used' valve body, so he put all the new sonnax parts into it. Transmission shifts great now, not a single hint of anything wrong with hit. Total cost was $4300 for the entire rebuild.

I'm not saying that your issue is going to end up the same as me, but its a possibility- that when electrical or communication can't be blamed further, its time to go deeper.

 

May of fixed the restricted performance. It was low on coolant so it was most likely overheating. He took it for a ride after but didn't call me with problems so I'm assuming that is fixed. I've never had a gearbox fault so like H2Oboy said it may be something that needs diving into deeper. I think that should be addressed first before anything else since that seems to be the major problem at the moment and that would dictate what to do further with the car. After that it seems it would just be a few minor things to get it back to normal shape. Hope everything went ok going to Charlotte. Did it run fine out there Joel? Has the smoke gone away from all the unburned fuel? Has the check engine stayed off after clearing the lean/rich codes?

 

P0171 is the code I meant. The restricted performance went away after I added more coolant and I made it to Charlotte safely. My tank does have a crack in it & I am gonna get a new one within the next few days. Already this morning when I drove my car the engine coolant was low again from that crack. I think it also is causing the car to struggle to turn on as well. I most probably will also replace the valve cover gasket. Leith Jaguar already has mentioned me to get one when I first took it to them. The smoke has all gone away from the unburned fuel. The check engine light is still on even after clearing the codes. The ABS light is on again as well as the DSC System fault. I'll check what codes it has now and post them up. Should I go to Scott Autobody here in Charlotte and get a second opinion about what is causing the gearbox fault?

 

I think I am missing something what is taking place that you think you have a gear box fault? The only code I see is P0171 is a lean code.

Check your PM

 

The Check Engine light is on, and the yellow warning light is on and it says "Gearbox Fault" when my car is turned on. I've had this gearbox fault since about 3 weeks after I bought the car

 

Do you have any other codes relating to the trans or any other part of the car other than the P0171?

 

Gus, in his #2 post, he has the jaguar dealer writeup - P0733 was the fault pulled for the gearbox. It won't go away either, unless cleared manually.

If it gets any worse, restricted performance coming more frequently, get into a tranny shop ASAP...find a good one in the meantime.

 

Matt, does a normal scan tool pick up the gearbox faults, or is that one of those things which can only be picked up by the dealer's equipment? And if it can only be picked up with the dealer's equipment, does that also mean it can only be cleared with the dealer's equipment?

Ugh! P0733 means "ECM Torque signal fault" or "Transmission mechanical failure". I guess that was probably discussed earlier in the thread. That doesn't sound good. Matt, why did you chose to spend $4300 getting your transmission rebuilt? Couldn't you have gotten one with half the miles for about half the price?

 

Thanks Matt I was unable to read that report. I knew that I was missing something!

 

I suggest having the codes for the ABS read by a dealer or someone with the extended code reader. The chances are good that the ABS and ASC problem is a bad wire on the wheel sensor or a bad sensor. Only the code reader will tell you which wheel it is. The wires are the first to go due to the constant flexing . I had this problem and the dealer changed the sensor, but it turned out to be the wire. I changed it myself for $35. The first thing to check on the P0733 code is fluid level and fluid cleanliness.

 

I just turned on my car. It did struggle to start like before. No codes other than P1000 showed up which to my knowledge is not a bad thing. The check engine light is still on, as well as the ABS. The yellow warning light is on and says Gearbox Fault and DSC System Fault. I'm going to go to Auto Zone & check if there is anything wrong with the battery.

 

I went to Auto Zone, the battery passed the test. It was 12.7 V when the car was off, 14.1 V when it was on

 

Rev, you know me by now, I don't like to gamble on something like that. I considered that option briefly, but I plan on keeping the convertible forever as my weekend/special occasion car, probably will also pass it on to my niece in several years, and want nothing to worry about when I do. I could have saved $1500, but wanted my original TCM along with the piece of mind. My mechanic warrantied it for 3 years too - 2 years more than any other transmission rebuilder.