OK, here goes. My '97 XK8 has had problems with the engine dying in certain situations. It usually happened when dropping down to idle like at a red light or turning a tight corner. So, long painful story, had the throttle body assembly replaced at no slight expense. Expensive part for something that looks like it should cost $45 at Autozone!

Let me mention that I only have 34k on the car, it is always garaged, and not driven in the rain unless I get caught out somewhere.

So, the other day I leave the house one morning (no rain, dry streets) and the car is running great. Slow down to let a toll booth gate open and the car doesn't want to accelerate out. Engine starts jerking some, revs stay low, GEARBOX FAULT on dash, ENGINE FAULT on dash, engine not responding to gas peddle, then it takes off. I'm at a bad spot to pull over so I have to drive a few minutes. During the drive the tach is going up and down with no relation to the gas pedal, trans is "slipping" (probably not really slipping but the experience is like that of a manual clutch slipping) and I generally get the feeling that either the engine or gearbox is going to blow. With a steady gas pedal the RPMs go from 1,000 - 2,500.

I pull into a parking lot and kill the engine. Let it sit about 10 minutes then cautiously fire her up. Everything runs perfectly, I drive the car to work (closer than home at this point) and then home at the end of the day. Ran perfect. Been parked since.

Any clues? Even though we had the throttle body replaced, I always thought that problem seemed electronic. This experience was similar in that the problems occurred when the vehicle almost came to a stop and the revs dropped suddenly.

Love the car but it is to the point that my wife won't drive it (not sure that is all bad!) because she is fearful of it dying on Houston freeways.

Appreciate any advice.

 

This episode should have left a trail in the computer. Get it read at the dealer (this may not be an OBDII code if the tranny is involved). This will lead you in the right direction. This could be the throttle position sensor in the throttle body or a bad harness in that assembly.

 

I agree you need to read the codes but it does sounds like the throttle body again. Let us know the codes when you get them. I recently experienced your same scenario and had my TB rebuilt. JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thanks. This happened about a week ago and been too busy to take it in and I have another vehicle I drive daily.

 

OK guys, been busy traveling and finally got a day to work on the car. My Actron diagnostics. 1) Crankshaft Position, Sensor A, Circuit Malfunction 2) Ignition Coil A, Primary Secondary, Circuit Malfunction, 3) Coil D, 4) Coil F, 5) Coil G, 6) Manufacturer Control, Fuel Air Metering, 7) Manufacturer Control, Ignition System or Misfire

Car idles very roughly, dies while at idle.

Any ideas? I'll take it back to the dealer if it is the Throttle Body, to an independent shop in Houston if it is something else. The crankshaft code is not very comforting.

 

Can you post the codes not the meaning you pulled?

 

while you're posting those codes that gus asked (which is VERY important, most of us have seen them more than once and can advise accordingly), but the 'misfire' is jumping out at me, could be 'at best', intermittent coil failure )oil in the plug wells, or 'worse case', timing chain has slipped a tooth and now your timing is all outa whack. Has your 97 had its timing chain tensioners replaced to the newest generation units? Crazy engine performance, all of a sudden, leads me to believe this is what has occurred. I hope I'm wrong, however. .

 

Make sure that the electrical connections to the throttle body are tight. For a couple of years my 2000 had similar erratic behavior problems and, although I throught the connections were tight, clean and dry the larger plug on the passenger's side would work itself loose just enough to randomly interrupt connections and cause throttle & RPM issues followed by a cascading list of fault codes to be triggered.

It turned out the retaining tangs on the plug had cracked off and although it felt properly seated and tight when plugging it in, it would eventually slowly work itself loose...

I carefully drilled a pilot hole in the plug casing and used a small stainess screw to absolutely, positively lock the plug to the throttle body. All problems revolved for 1+ years now.

Since you've been working on the throttle body I would give the connections a close second look...

Good luck!

 

Thanks guys. Been traveling a lot so just now back into it. The actual codes read are:
P1111, P0335, P1336, P1337, P0351, P0354, P0356, P0357.

H20boy Re: Has your 97 had its timing chain tensioners replaced to the newest generation units?
Answer: No, the car only has 34,000 miles so I haven't done anything this major.

 

You can look up all the codes for your car using this chart. http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...%201997-99.pdf

P1111 = System check
P0335 = CKPS Crankshaft position sensor
P0351 = (A-1) Ignition coil malfunction
P0354 = (B-1) See P0351
P0356 = (B-2) See P0351
P0357 = (B-3) See P0351
P1336 = CKPS Sync malfunction
P1337 = Ignition monitor

Not sure on this but I would check for a failed tensioner, Bad CKPS, Bad coil loose or broken connector

 

Thanks Gus. I'm going to check all the connections including the throttle body connections as Spurlee mentions. Next step would be to have it towed in if I can't find a loose connection causing the problem. I've checked all that before but I'm going to try it once more.

 

I had hopes that someone had another point of view. I had not run across this problem to give you any real input.

 

i hope he tell us the problem. I just purchased the special tools the whole timing chain kit, next is getting a remanufactured tranny, trying to have put all back together by the summer

 

special tools plus kit is 1000. remanufactured tranny 1700 . torque wrench cordless impact drivers , wrenches etc.... im putting about 3500 in this project. i should have a real hotrod by the summer

 

Hey guys, I realized I never followed up this thread. The cure was to replace the Electronic Control Module (ECM or ECU). I always felt like the problem was electrical rather than mechanical. Dealer wanted $7,000 for the new ECM! Are you kidding me? I found someone who put in a rebuilt one with a one year warranty for $1800 out the door.

In hindsight, I could have accomplished the same for much less but after the shock of the $7,000 dealer quote the $1800 seemed reasonable. There are a number of companies that rebuild ECMs.

Between a new Throttle Body and new ECM the cat is running!