Injectors did not solve 1384 and 1396 errors (guess I'm plagued with them forever). Car runs and idles so much better and no restricted performance. The only things that bothers me is no injector codes with two bad injectors. Only misfire codes

 

To my understanding a blocked, leaking, or continuously open injector can cause a misfire code. It takes circuit malfunction to throw a DTC for the injector.

 

BobRoy just beat me to it! Codes are triggered only by errors in electrical values. A sticky injector or a mechanically damaged one would not create a specific injector code, but the resultant misfiring would be picked up by the O2 sensors

 

Late to the party again so everyone beat me to it...

Dale, sorry it hasn't cleared the codes, but it's a relief to what's left of my brain. Saw your post this morning and been wondering all day how on earth a dud injector could throw a VVT code.

On the postive side, you've had a glimpse of how these motors are when they're on song. Smooth as a sewing machine.

Where next?
I'll read through the threads again and check if there's anything missed, but drawn back to wanting to 'see' what the sensors can.

“When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.”

Mike

 

Don't know what I'd do without you guys. I'm going to revisit the troubleshooting on 1384 and 1396 and take some good notes. Took a 80 mile trip today and ran like a song. Just had the two errors when I returned

 

The VVT system does not have a feedback loop, so if the mechanical bits are not operating correctly, that would suggest that the 'system' wouldn't know and no code would be generated as long as the PWM controlled solenoid was behaving properly.

As there are codes for both sides and noting that both VVT units and solenoids have been renewed, that surely says there is a fault in the electrics/electronics and it's located at some point in the system that is common to both sides. That takes it straight to the ECU as the only common part.

That's where I would concentrate the hunt

 

I revisited the troubleshooting phase of Vvt solenoids yesterday and all passed. I also have an android app "Torque" which monitors engine thru obdll. Torque shows timing advancing and retarding. If that signal comes from ecm then would not the same signal go to solenoids since all wiring test good? I'm at a loss here so any help or suggestions are welcome

 

Are you positive about this? I need to check the electrical diagram, but is there not a camshaft position sensor, as an input to the ECU? If there is, then the ECU can instruct the VVT to change the valve timing (offsetting the camshaft as compared to the crankshaft), and then measure the effect by "seeing" it reflected in the camshaft sensor. If the two do not reconcile, a code would be thrown. Just curious, really.

 

I have to disagree: the cam position sensors are the feedback to the ECM.

ECM commands a certain advance setting to the VVT solenoids, and the CPS feeds back the resultant cam setting for the ECM to compare. In this case, it's detecting (rightly or wrongly) that the difference between expected and actual is greater that a predetermined tolerance and thus throws the 1384 and 1396 codes.




This is a sticky issue as it's either incorrect cam phasings or the ECM incorrectly interpreting feedback.

Ideally, looking at the outputs from the three sensors is the only way to confirm without changing more parts.

Mike

 

I believe Torque shows ignition timing, as in when to activate the spark plugs.

The VVT has to do with mechanical valve timing, as in how much offset there is between the camshaft and the crankshaft.

When you put the VVT actuators back together, were there any seals or o-rings involved? I would assume if there were, they are supposed to hold oil pressure while it operates the valve. If those seals are somehow incorrect/pinched/worn/compromised, then the oil pressure will not hold and the mechanical adjustment will not be performed, leading to a code.

Separately, assuming this is all working correctly, another possibility is low oil pressure I suppose. If there is low oil pressure, then there is a logic to having both sides throw codes. Then again, low pressure would probably trigger a switch and show you that red light. Maybe you can check the oil pressure with a gauge where the switch normally goes and compare to some reference. I suppose low oil pressure would be worse when the engine is hot, as the warm oil would be less viscous. Not sure if it lines up with your symptoms.

I feel for your pain, Dale, best of luck.

 

I like the camshaft position sensor points. Happy to stand corrected. That would also account for the change to two camshaft sensors from one when the VVT system changed from a two position one to an infinitely variable one.

The ECU remains the common point.

 

New CMP'S on order. Driver side came out in pieces. When in doubt just order more parts 😁
Pics enclosed. Notice slight dent in both units. I think rear upper cam cover bolt needs to be a tad shorter.

 

What a mess. I don't think they're meant to be retained by the cam cover bolts! Likely someone just put any old bolts in there. I'd source a couple of known Jaguar 'special' ones for when you put it back together.

They're working to some degree else I'd expect to see P0340/P1340 codes, but in that state they have to be suspect and definitely fit the symptoms.

I found this helpful when I was researching:
http://www.teacher.starenvirotech.co...%2011-2003.pdf

Rooting for you that this is the end of the journey.

Good luck,
Mike

P.S. Astro, apologies if I came across as abrupt - fmertz is clearly better suited to a role in the Corps Diplomatique than I am.

 

Thanks Mike. I hope so too. Thinking once I get it in reliable condition may just give it to my daughter. When she was very young I built race cars and she always wanted me to build her one. Thinking this may suffice ☺

 

LOL - it's pretty close. Make sure you get some time in it instead of under it if you do.

I fell into the same trap as you did with the injectors: assuming that because the CMP sensors weren't being reported as faulty that they weren't.

Wonder what the P-code is for "I'm sort of OK but there's a bolt stuck in me"?

 

I don't know but they need to get one. Have not found source that specify different bolt but I think I can do wonders with the ones I have

 

Probably best to go OEM on this as those two are different from the others, apart from not being captive in the spacers. Apparently they have particular magnetic properties so they don't affect the cam sensors. They probably will be short enough not to pierce them either

Only difference I can see on mine is they're an unusual colour - now there's an accurate description.

 

Do you need the bolts for the cam position sensor or the cam cover. I believe I have both.

 

I read the post again and now I understand that you need the cam cover bolt that is nearest the cam position sensor. I'm a little slow old age is setting in.

The gold bolts are the ones that you need. I measure the bolts and the standard both is 1.35" and the gold ones are 1.25". I put a standard cam bolt in the position nearest the cam sensor in a spare head that I have. The standard bolt goes all the way through and we'll hit the cam sensor.
You might check your other cam bolts. You might have these bolts installed in the wrong position.
If you want these Dale let me know and I'll mail them out tomorrow.

 

Go ahead and mail. I'll take them. Just let me know and I'll get with you��