Yes the 97 to ? model year car had a hose installed that has not failed but that hose was rated at 600BAR that is equivalent to 8702Psi and that is why PSI and the hose rating is an issue. The pump puts out 1600+Psi.

This along with other information is documented on my page.

 

I've got a California car that was purchased in Palm Springs and spent most of its life near the coast. In the year I've owned it I've cycled the top at least once a week, and more lately practically every drive. I first installed the resistive pressure reduction system last summer which helped my peace of mind, but just lately installed the LSI pressure relief valve which helps even more

Here I'll thank Gus and Walt for their efforts in producing the valve kit. If I hadn't already purchased one, I'd be pretty bummed on hearing the news of it being discontinued. If you've been on the fence about getting one, jump down now and hope there are still some left in stock. It's a good kit with clear instructions, mine arrived in two days!

While installing the valve I noticed that two hoses (I suspect going to the latch) are the Parker Nylaflow, said to be the most failure prone, and the other four are completely unmarked, leading me to suspect they've been changed in the past. So it's probable that I'll suffer a latch hose failure sometime in the future.

Regardless of the prognosis, I've decided to use my top when and where I want, engine on or off, and enjoy my car. I'll deal with the consequences when/if they occur. However, my next order will most likely go to Colliflower for the new hoses!

I do appreciate the contributions from all on this forum. Without all of you, I wouldn't have anywhere near the confidence I have to evaluate the possible issues and make my decisions on how to deal with them. Threads like this one containing your experiences help to understand the whole picture.

Steve

 

This is a relief! I had read previous "green shower" threads but somehow had not picked up that the 97s had not experienced this problem. Thought I was just lucky!

 

The only way to know is to check the nomenclature on the hose. I do not know when they changed the hoses and they will not tell.

 

Just a gut instinct but I wouldn't recommend using both reduction systems together as you may end up with not enough pressure to move the top. Go with one or the other (I went with the LSI).

Doug

 

Oh yes, the resistor is occupying a place on my workbench right now. I considered leaving it in place, but thought it would be overkill

 

Good choice!

 

There are two reasons you might want to have the resistor in the circuit, with or without a relief valve: lower stress on the pump motor, and lower stress on the hose assembly.

Motor: with the resistor in place, the motor sees less voltage, draws less current, consumes less power, operates with less torque, at lower RPM.

Hose assembly: in its testing protocols for hydraulic hose assemblies (hose + fittings) which are to operate under pulsed, non-constant pressure (like our convertible tops), the ISO recognizes two factors stressing the system.
- peak pressure of each pulse
- rate of pressure increase (how quickly the pressure rises at beginning of each pulse).
The relief valve is the best at limiting peak pressure. But with the resistor in the circuit, the rate of pressure increase is roughly one-half to two-thirds that of a stock system, or a system with a relief valve.

But, anyway, if the resistor is not for you ...
Do you have a "plug & play" unit, from Reverend Sam? If so, will you send it to me if I cover the postage? I know some people who could use it.

 

I've been caught in the green shower!!!! When it rains it pours with this car. How do I lift the top up manually? Does this fluid come out of clothing? I will be looking over the previous post; there is plenty of info on this topic.

 

Open the petcock on the pump (counter clockwise), lift the roof from the center and pull up then forward to the latch. Once the roof is pulled forward use the allen wrench located at the pump and open your header latch by inserting it in a hole that is covered with a plastic cap just above the passengers sun visor. Rotate it until it grabs the roof then rotate the allen wrench to close the roof. Once the roof is closed press the roof close button with a little luck your rams will lock and the rear windows will close if they do not you will need to extend the roof rams to lock the roof in the closed position.

 

Thanks Gus!

This was done yesterday; thanks WhiteXKR (and Wife) for raising the top and dinner!!!!!

Tim

 

Be sure to lock the rams into the closed position. The simple road vibration with the roof not locked into position can and will play havoc on your windows.

 

Or you could create an input form:

Model year__2000____________
ext
Actual/estimated date of failure ____Sept 1 2011___________

Actual/estimated miles at time of failure __65,000_________

Vehicle registration state at time of failure __SC_________

Average Summer temperature ___90 +____________

Pressure enhancement: Valve _________ Resistor _________ None
____X_
mi
How often is the top lowered/raised (times per year) minium of 500 times a year________

I do have a small leak on the lines to the lift cylinder, plan on replacing them shortly but have a trip planned to Helen GA next week. If its not raining the top is down, as the Grandson says top down Pop Pop! Jim