Gus Read This - Others, replacing alternatior? Read
#1
Gus Read This - Others, replacing alternatior? Read
Gus mentioned he is about to do this same job, but it applies to everyone:
CHECK THAT the MODEL NUMBER ON THE ALTENATOR MATCHES the number On IT'S BOX before you leave the store.
They can put the wrong alternator in the right box!!!
I just spent 2+ hours pulling the old alternator out. Took out the new alternator and found it has a keyed pulley mount. No way to put the the pulley for our cars on that. Then I noticed the plug in connector was larger than the old alternator's connector (you'd never know this until you spend the time to pull the old one out). Called the manufacturer: THEY SENT me the wrong alternator in the proper box!!!
Moral of this story: Check and make sure the item numbers on the unit match the item number on the box. I sure wish I had known this one. Now if I'm lucky I can put the new one in later tomorrow afternoon!
While fresh in my mind, a few findings to share:
For the record: I read both instructions on how to do this (stickies, jagrepair.com). One says pull the fan, the other doesn't. Friends you'd have to be Houdini to get the old one out with the fans installed. It sounds intimidating, but it is easy as hell to pull the fan, today was my 1st time: just 2 nuts (10mm), the upper radiator hose, two wire connections (one for each fan), and two wire standoffs holding the wire connections on each side. Oh BTW, loosening the belts with the fan out is 100x easier with the fans out of the way too.
I don't know how anyone could get to the wired connections on the back of the alternator without freeing the alternator first.
Both instructions speak of difficulties pulling the wire connector on the back of the alternator. Once I figured out how to apply pressure to disconnect, it was easy (truth is it felt like 20minutes to figure it out though).
Put one finger on the side of the connector nearest the outer perimiter of the alternator, the other on the opposite side nearest the center of the alternator. Squeeze together and pull her out.
If you're like me you like to know the wrench sizes:
Aternator top bolt: 10mm
Alternator bottom bolt and nut: 1/2 inch (yes I know I said inches, it worked and couldn't have fit better)
Fan nuts: 10mm
Throttle body bolts 8mm
Right now I'm dreading trying to put the new altenator mount back in the lower mount tomorrow. Anyone with any tricks please let us know. There are no bushings as mentioned in the instructions on my 1998. It felt like 1/2 hour rocking it back and forth moving a mm at a time to get it out.
Oh yeah, a lesson learned: (I hate these cause as you can imagine - they usually just happened to me!) PUT the ROOF up before you disconnect the battery and get into this one. No matter how sure you are that you'll have this done in 3 or 4 hours, things can go wrong. Now it is a day or two for me. I've got battery wires flapping around down where the old alternator was so I can't just connect the battery, yet now I've got to connect the battery to close the roof/windows before rain tomorrow and leaving her outside at night.
Hope it all helps you.
John
CHECK THAT the MODEL NUMBER ON THE ALTENATOR MATCHES the number On IT'S BOX before you leave the store.
They can put the wrong alternator in the right box!!!
I just spent 2+ hours pulling the old alternator out. Took out the new alternator and found it has a keyed pulley mount. No way to put the the pulley for our cars on that. Then I noticed the plug in connector was larger than the old alternator's connector (you'd never know this until you spend the time to pull the old one out). Called the manufacturer: THEY SENT me the wrong alternator in the proper box!!!
Moral of this story: Check and make sure the item numbers on the unit match the item number on the box. I sure wish I had known this one. Now if I'm lucky I can put the new one in later tomorrow afternoon!
While fresh in my mind, a few findings to share:
For the record: I read both instructions on how to do this (stickies, jagrepair.com). One says pull the fan, the other doesn't. Friends you'd have to be Houdini to get the old one out with the fans installed. It sounds intimidating, but it is easy as hell to pull the fan, today was my 1st time: just 2 nuts (10mm), the upper radiator hose, two wire connections (one for each fan), and two wire standoffs holding the wire connections on each side. Oh BTW, loosening the belts with the fan out is 100x easier with the fans out of the way too.
I don't know how anyone could get to the wired connections on the back of the alternator without freeing the alternator first.
Both instructions speak of difficulties pulling the wire connector on the back of the alternator. Once I figured out how to apply pressure to disconnect, it was easy (truth is it felt like 20minutes to figure it out though).
Put one finger on the side of the connector nearest the outer perimiter of the alternator, the other on the opposite side nearest the center of the alternator. Squeeze together and pull her out.
If you're like me you like to know the wrench sizes:
Aternator top bolt: 10mm
Alternator bottom bolt and nut: 1/2 inch (yes I know I said inches, it worked and couldn't have fit better)
Fan nuts: 10mm
Throttle body bolts 8mm
Right now I'm dreading trying to put the new altenator mount back in the lower mount tomorrow. Anyone with any tricks please let us know. There are no bushings as mentioned in the instructions on my 1998. It felt like 1/2 hour rocking it back and forth moving a mm at a time to get it out.
Oh yeah, a lesson learned: (I hate these cause as you can imagine - they usually just happened to me!) PUT the ROOF up before you disconnect the battery and get into this one. No matter how sure you are that you'll have this done in 3 or 4 hours, things can go wrong. Now it is a day or two for me. I've got battery wires flapping around down where the old alternator was so I can't just connect the battery, yet now I've got to connect the battery to close the roof/windows before rain tomorrow and leaving her outside at night.
Hope it all helps you.
John
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How to rebuild?
Does one dig in and start testing component by component? Truth is, it would probably be a lot easier if I was dealing with a total failure. This time I am replacing it because of a swinging problem with fluctuating voltage regulator output. Without a bench set up to test this I'd be reluctant to fall back on "test while you drive" over the next week or so. But I'm open and ready to get smarter.
How do you go about rebuilding an alternator? I have to admit I wouldn't be in this jamb if I was rebuilding it successfully.
Gus and all others, I hope I didn't confuse things. Gus had told us he was about to buy the same alternator from the same place, so I wanted to post the part warning right away.
As I was typing i decided to share my findings from the job. Probably should have started another thread to keep things clear.
John
Thanks
Last edited by Johnken; 07-27-2016 at 08:58 PM.
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