Happy new owner
#1
06-03-2021, 03:33 PM
#2
06-03-2021, 03:49 PM
Issues
The soft top was taking forever to open and discover the green hydraulic fluid was low. We top it off and now moves super fast. The question is where did all the hydraulic fluid go?
It took us forever with this small syringe.
Tires show a 2003 date and have developed flat spots, you can fell the vibrations when driving.
The brake pedal ahs been falling inside, we suspect water in fluid has evaporated with our use and has now air in the system. We will flush the fluid soon.
Car has a smell to burnt oil and smoke coming from the left of engine when we start the engine, lasting only a few seconds.
Oil level is like a centimeter above the second dot. I think is the extra oil, husband thinks is a bad valve cover gasket.
It took us forever with this small syringe.
Tires show a 2003 date and have developed flat spots, you can fell the vibrations when driving.
The brake pedal ahs been falling inside, we suspect water in fluid has evaporated with our use and has now air in the system. We will flush the fluid soon.
Car has a smell to burnt oil and smoke coming from the left of engine when we start the engine, lasting only a few seconds.
Oil level is like a centimeter above the second dot. I think is the extra oil, husband thinks is a bad valve cover gasket.
The following users liked this post:
DavidYau (06-04-2021)
#3
06-03-2021, 04:14 PM
Issues
When we start the car has a smell to burnt oil and smoke is coming from the left of engine. The oil level is a centimeter above the second dot. I suspect overflow issue husband suspects valve cover gasket.
The soft top took forever to open and discover the green hydraulic fluid was low. We top it off and now moves super fast.
I took us too long with this small syringe.
The question is where did all the hydraulic fluid go?
Tires show a 2003 date and I think have develop flat spots, you can feel the vibrations when driving.
Brakes work all right, but the pedal has been dropping to the floor. We will flush the fluid soon and go from there.
The soft top took forever to open and discover the green hydraulic fluid was low. We top it off and now moves super fast.
I took us too long with this small syringe.
The question is where did all the hydraulic fluid go?
Tires show a 2003 date and I think have develop flat spots, you can feel the vibrations when driving.
Brakes work all right, but the pedal has been dropping to the floor. We will flush the fluid soon and go from there.
#4
06-03-2021, 06:05 PM
Veteran Member
Congrats!
It is beautiful.
Some day pop over to show it off (wimberley)
the green stuff may have various leak potential spots...hopefully you will not suffer the green shower. Do a search on the site for top fluid leak and you will have many hours of reading, but well worth the time to fully understand the system, problems, repairs, improvements, etc.
The #1 thing you must determine is whether the timing chain guides have been replaced...they must be or you are driving a time-bomb and the results will not be nice.
wj.
It is beautiful.
Some day pop over to show it off (wimberley)
the green stuff may have various leak potential spots...hopefully you will not suffer the green shower. Do a search on the site for top fluid leak and you will have many hours of reading, but well worth the time to fully understand the system, problems, repairs, improvements, etc.
The #1 thing you must determine is whether the timing chain guides have been replaced...they must be or you are driving a time-bomb and the results will not be nice.
wj.
Last edited by wymjym; 06-03-2021 at 06:07 PM.
#5
06-03-2021, 06:43 PM
If oil leak comes from valve cover seal is this a good time to check guides? I search forum but how will I know if guides are originals or replaced?
The following users liked this post:
DavidYau (06-04-2021)
#6
06-03-2021, 08:23 PM
Veteran Member
Lorena, Arthur, nice ride! Welcome.
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
Last edited by Johnken; 06-03-2021 at 08:25 PM.
#7
06-04-2021, 11:50 AM
Veteran Member
Lots of info available
There’s lots of info available on the timing chains for or AJ-V8 engine, which is quite a common engine. In short, yes - if you’re changing the valve cover seals, it’s easy to inspect/change the upper chain tensioner and you have access to inspect the lower guides.
Check out this father and son Youtube channel. Lots of info on our car
Trending Topics
#8
06-04-2021, 02:35 PM
Member
Hi we have some questions regarding my new to me XK8. We named it Wilson.
Car has 30k miles and has been parked inside a garage for years.
Congratulations on the new toy and welcome to the Forum. You've already started to get some good input from an excellent group of people and there is a wealth of useful information available here. I'm a bit of a newbie myself and, FWIW, I encourage you to remember, beyond cosmetics, that age can be much more important than mileage in terms of a car's mechanical integrity, and this is particularly true with an XK. A regularly (sympathetically) used and maintained high mileage car will often be in better shape than a low mileage car that has sat around for years. In addition to some of the inherent design and build weaknesses, all well documented here on the Forum, our cars were built at a time when 'industrial' plastics and other synthetics were beginning to replace metal in many places under the hood and complex, interlinked electronic systems were sprouting up all over. As a result, fatigue failures in non-metallic parts and sporadic DTC's due to battery voltage and ground fluctuations are common problem areas. Also, as noted already (#4 above) you should make sure the timing chain guides and tensioners are of the latest design. Unless there is documentary evidence of the upgrade it would be smart to pull a cam cover and check. Age fatigue failure of plastic tensioners has destroyed numerous engines on older cars.
Car has 30k miles and has been parked inside a garage for years.
Congratulations on the new toy and welcome to the Forum. You've already started to get some good input from an excellent group of people and there is a wealth of useful information available here. I'm a bit of a newbie myself and, FWIW, I encourage you to remember, beyond cosmetics, that age can be much more important than mileage in terms of a car's mechanical integrity, and this is particularly true with an XK. A regularly (sympathetically) used and maintained high mileage car will often be in better shape than a low mileage car that has sat around for years. In addition to some of the inherent design and build weaknesses, all well documented here on the Forum, our cars were built at a time when 'industrial' plastics and other synthetics were beginning to replace metal in many places under the hood and complex, interlinked electronic systems were sprouting up all over. As a result, fatigue failures in non-metallic parts and sporadic DTC's due to battery voltage and ground fluctuations are common problem areas. Also, as noted already (#4 above) you should make sure the timing chain guides and tensioners are of the latest design. Unless there is documentary evidence of the upgrade it would be smart to pull a cam cover and check. Age fatigue failure of plastic tensioners has destroyed numerous engines on older cars.
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cjd777 (06-05-2021)
#9
06-04-2021, 04:31 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
Posts: 24,834
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#11
06-05-2021, 08:49 AM
Member
Lorena, Arthur, nice ride! Welcome.
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
Thank you for posting. Great info; I wasn't aware re the coolant temp display and coolant pump blades. The "low coolant level' text came on the other day. Coolant level was a bit low but the coolant temperature gauge remained "normal". Thanks for the referral to "the jag wrangler".
Also re the headlamps bulbs replacement with LED's. Which LED replacement do you suggest?
#13
06-05-2021, 09:43 AM
Veteran Member
Becky,
Here's the ones I'm now using.
Trust me: when you get them, or any low beam LED replacements ask for quick instructions to install. Not hard at all, just far from obvious. I / we can save you a few headaches.
Coolant light has nothing to do with the blade defect. One interesting thing that is related: did you know your XK8s air-conditioning will shut itself off when coolant temperature gets close to overheating. File that one away for the hot summer trips coming up.
Becky, for $40 and 20minutes, I'd just replace the coolant pump if I were you. No special tools needed. Really easy.
Hey while you're in the middle of it, take a second and spin the idler pulley next to it (top left as you face front of engine). Why? The darn thing's bearings wear out - when that happens you'll get noises that sit squarely between embassasing and scary :-). What do you look for when spinning it? Does it rotate smoothly (good) or have a stepped ratcheting feel (replace).
BTW did you know you can put your hood in the service position for easier work access? The hood sits vertically in this position, not connected to 2 dampeners.
###oops, sorry Becky. I read too fast and thought I was responding to the lady who started the thread. You probably know this all already!*****
John
Here's the ones I'm now using.
Trust me: when you get them, or any low beam LED replacements ask for quick instructions to install. Not hard at all, just far from obvious. I / we can save you a few headaches.
Coolant light has nothing to do with the blade defect. One interesting thing that is related: did you know your XK8s air-conditioning will shut itself off when coolant temperature gets close to overheating. File that one away for the hot summer trips coming up.
Becky, for $40 and 20minutes, I'd just replace the coolant pump if I were you. No special tools needed. Really easy.
Hey while you're in the middle of it, take a second and spin the idler pulley next to it (top left as you face front of engine). Why? The darn thing's bearings wear out - when that happens you'll get noises that sit squarely between embassasing and scary :-). What do you look for when spinning it? Does it rotate smoothly (good) or have a stepped ratcheting feel (replace).
BTW did you know you can put your hood in the service position for easier work access? The hood sits vertically in this position, not connected to 2 dampeners.
###oops, sorry Becky. I read too fast and thought I was responding to the lady who started the thread. You probably know this all already!*****
John
Last edited by Johnken; 06-05-2021 at 09:46 AM.
#14
06-05-2021, 10:10 AM
Member
Hi John,
Thank you for the Amazon headlamp link. I most definitely will ask for instructions on how to install. I don't believe in "reinventing the wheel". Much better to learn from others.
Didn't know about the ac shutting off when the coolant temp gets high. Great idea. Florida has plenty of warm days.
Also excellent suggestion about checking idler pulleys (in fact all pulleys that can be checked) for bearing wear. Bearings are much less expensive than component replacement / repair.
Brake rotors and pads are on the "to do " list for this weekend. I'll order the coolant pump (suggestions on where to purchase?).
One can never have too much information when it comes to the servicing of Jaguars. Thank you.
Thank you for the Amazon headlamp link. I most definitely will ask for instructions on how to install. I don't believe in "reinventing the wheel". Much better to learn from others.
Didn't know about the ac shutting off when the coolant temp gets high. Great idea. Florida has plenty of warm days.
Also excellent suggestion about checking idler pulleys (in fact all pulleys that can be checked) for bearing wear. Bearings are much less expensive than component replacement / repair.
Brake rotors and pads are on the "to do " list for this weekend. I'll order the coolant pump (suggestions on where to purchase?).
One can never have too much information when it comes to the servicing of Jaguars. Thank you.
#15
06-05-2021, 01:50 PM
Member
Hi Atheos,
The key replacement plan seems reasonable. I am in the process of having 2 replacement ignition keys (the black one) made by the dealer. (Current key is causing issues and car will not go into "learn mode" to program a fob). (Also stuck in valet mode.)
$125 for Key Blank ea.
$20 Key Cut ea.
$162 Programming ea.
4 week lead time.
The key replacement plan seems reasonable. I am in the process of having 2 replacement ignition keys (the black one) made by the dealer. (Current key is causing issues and car will not go into "learn mode" to program a fob). (Also stuck in valet mode.)
$125 for Key Blank ea.
$20 Key Cut ea.
$162 Programming ea.
4 week lead time.
#16
06-08-2021, 04:55 PM
Lorena, Arthur, nice ride! Welcome.
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
FYI, the top takes nearly 20 seconds to fully open or close. I remember worrying when I first got mine, folks on here advised me that the spec is: less than 20 seconds to open.
Our cats are close in age. I want to give you a heads up. Back in 1997 and 1998, the blades on the coolant pump were sometimes defective. The blades would break apart without you knowing. It happened to me. A new replacement pump costs less than $40. Takes 20 or 30 minutes to replace. (File this away: new replacement pumps do not need or come with a rubber O ring).
That ties in perfectly for lesson #2. The coolant temperature sensor works fine just like any other car. Problem is, jaguar decided to make the coolant display guage a modal readout (only displays: cold, warm, uh oh you're in big trouble). It is not an interval display from the factory.
As I told you about the pump, I thought of this, especially with summer coming. A gentleman on this site developed, builds, and sells a fix for this called RealGuage. Easy enough to install on your own, it turns the display into an accurate graduated interval display. You know exactly where you stand with a quick glance. I highly recommend it. Google "the jag wrangler" for his website.
I just went through a similar brakes travel too close to the floor too. Good idea to change fluid and bleed. If that doesn't work, next suspect a bad caliper.
While I've always found flat spots to work themselves out, 2003 is old! Everyone has their own favorite tire, some quick feedback. The car came with Pirelli P-Zero's, a phenomenal tire - in dry weather, and for about 6 to 12 months. They are wonderful when brand new, but wear fast, really fast. For the $1400-$1600 for a new set, maybe you can do better.
I put Continental Extreme contact tires on. Cost less than 1/2 of Pirelli, performance doesn't change much as they age, I can almost never get them to lose traction.
You will soon grow frustrated with the low beams. Don't do what I and many of us did and buy Extra Bright bulbs, then extra extra bright halogen bulbs at Autozone - waste of $$$ and time. LED replacements are worlds better than the stock incandescent bulbs. Reasonable price, easy enough to install. If you want an Amazon recommendation just ask.
In case you're wondering about Xenon bulb replacements:
- they take a second or two to come to full brightness
- much more expensive than LEDs
- much much more annoying to install. You must protect the bulb from fingerprints or debris, all Xenons come with a transformer (size of a pack of cigarettes) that must be installed by the headlight.
- transformer adds extra wire you must notch the weather tight low beam protection to feed the thick high voltage wire to bulb.
- yes, Xenons are a bit brighter than LEDs but close to overkill IMO
Look, I hope this helps, doesn't overload you ;-). For just about every suggestion above, please do take the time to ask us for instructions. We all help each other out here, and you can bet the house that there's always going to be one or two gotchas we've learned about the hard way and can share.
John
When Arturo fixes the leak, he will replace the coolant pump and check the tensioner but how to know if we have the bad ones?
What is a good source for Jaguar parts?
Sensor fix by RealGuage looks challenging but I need to research how to take the veneer cover off to get to the gauges.
Replaced the pads, rotors look like new but resurface them and flushed the fluid. Pedal is still spongy. Maybe air in the master cylinder I read you need to do a bench bleed to fix. More research for us.
I’ll try the Yokohamas thanks for your Pirelli suggestion.
So, is the low beams, I thought it was my height at 5’ I’m seating too low. Will look into new LEDs.
#17
06-08-2021, 04:59 PM
No upgrades documented
Also, as noted already (#4 above) you should make sure the timing chain guides and tensioners are of the latest design. Unless there is documentary evidence of the upgrade it would be smart to pull a cam cover and check. Age fatigue failure of plastic tensioners has destroyed numerous engines on older cars.
#18
06-08-2021, 05:01 PM
#19
06-08-2021, 05:03 PM