Has anyone cut their springs to alter the ride height?
#1
Has anyone cut their springs to alter the ride height?
When I was younger lots of people used to cut a couple of inches off their springs. Sometimes you'd have to wire them to their platforms to keep them in position when the shock was fully extended, but that wasn't a problem, I did it myself on a MK2 Escort.
I'm fitting a new/old front subframe soon and I was thinking that lowering it when it's apart would be nice and if it was free that would be even nicer. Has anyone any thoughts, apart from that I'm being tight that is?
I'm fitting a new/old front subframe soon and I was thinking that lowering it when it's apart would be nice and if it was free that would be even nicer. Has anyone any thoughts, apart from that I'm being tight that is?
#2
Bottom out
When I was younger lots of people used to cut a couple of inches off their springs. Sometimes you'd have to wire them to their platforms to keep them in position when the shock was fully extended, but that wasn't a problem, I did it myself on a MK2 Escort.
I'm fitting a new/old front subframe soon and I was thinking that lowering it when it's apart would be nice and if it was free that would be even nicer. Has anyone any thoughts, apart from that I'm being tight that is?
I'm fitting a new/old front subframe soon and I was thinking that lowering it when it's apart would be nice and if it was free that would be even nicer. Has anyone any thoughts, apart from that I'm being tight that is?
The lowering springs tend to be stiffer and or more aggressively progressive. If you cut the springs you lose a lot of range, they don't sit properly in the mounts, and you don't gain stiffness so you'll likely hate the result. Lowering springs aren't that expensive compared to the cost of replacing them. I wouldn't go cheap here. Search on "Don't cut car springs" and you'll see story after story of really bad results. Suspension and brakes are really bad places to go cheap.
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Bill Swift (02-07-2014)
#3
Thanks Rob.
I checked out some videos and I think you're probably right, if the spring is flat on the end then don't cut it because it won't sit properly seems to be the consensus of opinion.
I had a look on Ebay and some springs from a company called Adamesh drop the car 25mm which doesn't seem to be very much, but there's another company that says it offers a number of options upon request. What do you reckon, do you think 50mm would be too much?
I checked out some videos and I think you're probably right, if the spring is flat on the end then don't cut it because it won't sit properly seems to be the consensus of opinion.
I had a look on Ebay and some springs from a company called Adamesh drop the car 25mm which doesn't seem to be very much, but there's another company that says it offers a number of options upon request. What do you reckon, do you think 50mm would be too much?
#4
The Mina Gallery set is 30mm lower.
50mm would be an awful lot, especially in the front. Personally, I would be worried about stuffing the nose into things or getting high centered on a speed bump.
I worry about that now with slightly sagging stock springs. The oil cooler is out there just asking to get bashed into a curb or steep driveway.
50mm would be an awful lot, especially in the front. Personally, I would be worried about stuffing the nose into things or getting high centered on a speed bump.
I worry about that now with slightly sagging stock springs. The oil cooler is out there just asking to get bashed into a curb or steep driveway.
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Bill Swift (02-07-2014)
#5
That's a good point Charlie, I've had the nose slip over a few kerbs when I've parked, a 50mm drop and it would be a crash, I'll stick with the 25mm. I've also read on the forum that dropping the car down effects the camber quite a lot, enough to cause wear to the inner edge of the tyre.
I'm not actually starting the job till next month but I can see already it's going to cost me a lot of money. Luckily I bought a complete set of Powerflex bushes last year when I wasn't quite so poor.
Thanks both.
I'm not actually starting the job till next month but I can see already it's going to cost me a lot of money. Luckily I bought a complete set of Powerflex bushes last year when I wasn't quite so poor.
Thanks both.
#6
Here's a little article about cutting springs if anyone's interested.
Cutting Coil Springs - EATON Detroit Spring
Cutting Coil Springs - EATON Detroit Spring
#7
there is another less well known technique.
it involves compressing the spring and heating in the oven.
on the other hand, apparently it is quite easy in Australia to get springs refreshed professionally where they set the height and re-temper ... all for about $25 a spring.
AutoSpeed - Resetting Springs
Coil Springs
Reducing ride height by "resetting" coil springs - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
++
it involves compressing the spring and heating in the oven.
on the other hand, apparently it is quite easy in Australia to get springs refreshed professionally where they set the height and re-temper ... all for about $25 a spring.
AutoSpeed - Resetting Springs
Coil Springs
Reducing ride height by "resetting" coil springs - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
++
Last edited by plums; 02-07-2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Bill Swift (02-08-2014)
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#8
Cutting and torching springs have long been home brew methods to lower cars. Literally holding a torch to the coils and getting them red and having a couple friends press and hold down the suspension. This started with the hot rodders and the low rider clubs. Don't forget in the 70's it was in vogue to raise the rear end of a car with air shocks, and stuff big tires under it.
Now here's where it get interesting. Most of those springs were linear. They were not progressive (asymetrically wound). So the car maintained some of it's ride characteristics.
You still some of this debauchery. Especially on Fast N Loud. Although they have moved to airbags on most things.
I wouldn't do it on a modern car. Lowering springs can be usually acquired cheaply enough and they are designed for the car.
Take care,
George
Now here's where it get interesting. Most of those springs were linear. They were not progressive (asymetrically wound). So the car maintained some of it's ride characteristics.
You still some of this debauchery. Especially on Fast N Loud. Although they have moved to airbags on most things.
I wouldn't do it on a modern car. Lowering springs can be usually acquired cheaply enough and they are designed for the car.
Take care,
George
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Bill Swift (02-08-2014)
#9
Mina
Thanks Rob.
I checked out some videos and I think you're probably right, if the spring is flat on the end then don't cut it because it won't sit properly seems to be the consensus of opinion.
I had a look on Ebay and some springs from a company called Adamesh drop the car 25mm which doesn't seem to be very much, but there's another company that says it offers a number of options upon request. What do you reckon, do you think 50mm would be too much?
I checked out some videos and I think you're probably right, if the spring is flat on the end then don't cut it because it won't sit properly seems to be the consensus of opinion.
I had a look on Ebay and some springs from a company called Adamesh drop the car 25mm which doesn't seem to be very much, but there's another company that says it offers a number of options upon request. What do you reckon, do you think 50mm would be too much?
I have a mix of Mina and S/K springs on my car (they appear identical) I bottom out a lot, I sure wouldn't go any lower. You'll need to shim the rear or your camber will be way off. Once you get the springs on have an alignment done (they'll likely have to slit the front suspension because the optional adjustment screw doesn't go far enough). Once you know how far you are off you can get shims from someplace like Paragon Design (what I did). Be aware that when you remove the camber you may have to mess around with the wheel liner and pull out the fender a tad or you tires may hit if you have gone wide. Stock tires should be OK though.
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Bill Swift (02-08-2014)
#10
What do you mean by 'slit the front suspension' Rob?
I didn't realise there was so much involved and I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth doing. What I was hoping might be an easy and cheap job looks like it might get expensive, especially if my tyres get trashed, and hitting the stops can't be good. Are you glad that you've done yours?
I didn't realise there was so much involved and I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth doing. What I was hoping might be an easy and cheap job looks like it might get expensive, especially if my tyres get trashed, and hitting the stops can't be good. Are you glad that you've done yours?
Last edited by Bill Swift; 02-08-2014 at 05:32 AM.
#11
What do you mean by 'slit the front suspension' Rob?
I didn't realise there was so much involved and I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth doing. What I was hoping might be an easy and cheap job looks like it might get expensive, especially if my tyres get trashed, and hitting the stops can't be good. Are you glad that you've done yours?
I didn't realise there was so much involved and I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth doing. What I was hoping might be an easy and cheap job looks like it might get expensive, especially if my tyres get trashed, and hitting the stops can't be good. Are you glad that you've done yours?
I believe he meant 'slot'. The strut mounting bolt holes get elongated into slots to provide more adjustment.
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Bill Swift (02-08-2014)
#12
Well that looks easy enough, thanks a lot Mr Cattitude.
I bet a lowered S type would look awesome, have you done yours? It was actually a toss up between the S type and the XK8 as I love the Sweeney villain thing, is that just me?
I'm so glad of this forum, it's got me out of a number of holes over the last year.
I bet a lowered S type would look awesome, have you done yours? It was actually a toss up between the S type and the XK8 as I love the Sweeney villain thing, is that just me?
I'm so glad of this forum, it's got me out of a number of holes over the last year.
#14
I was forgetting that most of the members were in the States Tommy. After school on a Friday night it was chips and egg and The Sweeney. Was it on the telly over there?
THE SWEENEY - Motors
And here's a video of a lowered Jag.
THE SWEENEY - Motors
And here's a video of a lowered Jag.
Last edited by Bill Swift; 02-08-2014 at 05:08 PM.
#15
Those pics are a bit deceiving as it shows McPherson strut rather than double wishbone which the XK has but the principle is the same, however I would go the adjuster bolts first from jaguar, you would have to slot the subframe otherwise which would be something I would not be happy with and would make different bolts with a bigger eccentric centre for more adjustment
Buy some lowering springs they are not expensive or if you want to be different weld on some adjuster sleeves
Buy some lowering springs they are not expensive or if you want to be different weld on some adjuster sleeves
#16
Thanks XKRacer.
I'm sorry if I'm asking a silly question but I can't see from this pic where the camber can be adjusted as the top wishbone and lower rear appear to be fixed. Or by adjuster bolts do you mean that there is an adjustable replacement available for the lower rear arm?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...s-wishbone-jpg
I'm sorry if I'm asking a silly question but I can't see from this pic where the camber can be adjusted as the top wishbone and lower rear appear to be fixed. Or by adjuster bolts do you mean that there is an adjustable replacement available for the lower rear arm?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...s-wishbone-jpg
Last edited by Bill Swift; 02-09-2014 at 04:41 AM.
#17
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#18
#19
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