First some back ground: This procedure took me 90 minutes, but that's because I stopped to figure out how to complete the process. Your actual time should be about 45 minutes or less. One particular step had me perplexed for 20 minutes, until I got curious. Then the step was finished in 6 minutes.

Also, I knew there was an easier way to complete this procedure. I knew I was doing it the hard way, but for good reason. I set out to replace my headlight lens with the intention of completing and documenting the procedure so the average guy, with basic tools could do it.


I read a number of posts recommending the removal of the wheel arch and even the front fascia, but I wanted to see if I could get away with not doing those 2 steps. Would it have been easier if I had? Yes, but again I wanted to see if it could be done without them.


In my "adventure" yesterday I discovered a couple tricks that will make your ability to perform this task a lot easier. While a pdf. will show you the what and where, it will not tell you the how and effect. One example is that, and this is important, the new seal that comes with the new lens assembly has not been compressed for years and years, so it is thicker, and this creates a problem for reinstalling the T40 screw. The new thickness causes the screw to not line up but I've got a work around in this post.


One unexpected new favorite tool is a 4"x8"x12" square Tupperware pitcher I use to put bird food in the bird feeders. It makes a perfect shop "pillow" when I'm laying on your back and it slides across the cement garage floor with you as you move. NO MORE STRAINED NECK MUSCLES!!!


The pictures are in order of the process, and the assembly is the reverse.


Remember to be mindful of the lens installation as the plastic tabs that lock the lens assembly to the headlight assembly will break if you pry them away to much, lift them gently with a flat tool enough to clear the locking point and no further.


A shop light is absolutely a must have. If you do not have one, go buy one before beginning this procedure, you will not be successful without one. Make sure to have a LED light bulb installed in the shop light as well. They don't generate the heat of a standard bulb and wont break every time you move it.


Make sure you have the hex bits T30 and T40 before starting. They are not expensive and can be bought in a set of 5 or six for around $10.00 (U.S)



Let's talk a moment about shop safety- Always be aware of your surroundings and make sure you fully understand the proper procedures for using jacks, jack stands and tire blocks. Never get under a car supported only by a jack. Use jack stands for primary support and have your jack slightly lifting on the car for secondary support.

Here we go:


1)Start the car and turn the wheels to full lock determined by which headlight you're working on. (Front of the tire turned all the way inboard)
2) Loosen the tires lug nuts, DO NOT REMOVE
3) Raise and support the car
4) Remove the tire and place a thick(er) cover over the brake assembly. This is because you're going to be leaning on it. I use an old bathroom vanity carpet.
6) Remove the wheel arch access door by turning the center knob (you'll see) to unlock the door from the wheel arch. Lift the bottom door latch to release the door, pull out and down.
7) Turn on the shop light and put it through the access hole and drop it in there out of the way.


Photo #


1) This is why I'm replacing the lens
2) Have a look around
3) Remove the plastic cover, it just slides out. You may not have it, mine is missing from the other side of the car.
4) This is an example of the typical tabs that hold the lens to the headlight assembly.
5), 6) & 7) are self explanatory
8) This is the T40 hex screw that holds the lens bottom of the assembly to the car. The removal of this screw is indeed the toughest part of this procedure.
9) Using the combination of 1/4" socket wrench, 1/4" socket & extension and the T40 hex bit, put your arm through the access hole and remove the screw. It's a cumbersome task, but not too bad. It's a bit irritating because you can only use one eye at a time to see the screw for this step.
10) T40 screw removed
11) On a 1999 XK8, if you lay down in front of the car (with the Tupperware under your head), directly below the grill, there is a large opening that allows you to look up and inside where you just removed the T40 screw. On the same bracket as the screw, there are two 8mm bolts that need to be loosened, but not removed. These need to be loosened due to the thickness of the new seal. If you do not loosen these two bolts, when you go to reinstall the T40 screw, the hole will not line up with the bracket. This is because the clip to secure the two assemblies together is extremely difficult to snap in place. I got within a hair width to clipping it with no luck. By loosening these, when I tightened them later, the clip snapped in place.
12) Back view of the same bolts, looking through the access hole.
13) Carefully "wriggle" the headlight assy forward.
14) Unclip the washer assembly. Though not pictured, I found it easier to disconnect the washer hose when installing the lens assembly. That's because the hose gets "in the way" for assembly. The hose clip is a simple slide/lock style.
15) Another clip view
16) The beauty of the shop light. That's the fog light assembly with the red dot.
17) Lens removed. You can see the slide/lock clip for the washer assembly just touching the fascia, I hadn't discovered the need to remove the washer unit at this point.
18) Another view as in #17)
19) Proof that only the access door was removed
20) Assembly is the reverse of 1 thru 19


Now, because you laid on your back and looked up at the T40 screw bracket and loosened those two 8mm bolts, you're life got easier. Push the headlight assembly back into place and replace the top securing T30 screw loosely and tighten the 13mm bolt. Take the 1/4 inch socket wrench combination used step/photo #9, take a small piece of heavy plastic and put it around the T40 drive bit. Push the T40 screw onto the bit, the plastic will hold it in place. Reaching through the access door, lift the loose bracket held by the 8mm bolts, install the T40 screw, pulling the bracket snugly against the screw and tighten it. Make sure the screw goes through the bracket. If the screw drops off, don't worry, it's not falling into oblivion, just reach in and find it.


After you have the T40 screw installed, lay on your back again, look up in there, and tighten those 8mm bolts. This will draw the headlight assembly inward Because of the triangular geometry of the securing points, your headlight will automatically fall very close to proper adjustment. Lastly, tighten the T30 screw.


Tip- Prior to installing the new lens assembly, take note of where the larger tables are located on both the lens assembly and your light sockets, this will make installing them when your finished much easier.

 

I'm glad I was able to help!!

 

Actually I feel bad for not having acknowledged your excellent write-up with photos but figured there would be a bunch of "atta-boy" posts from others--I am kind of surprised there were none (but at least several "thanks").

Anyway this write up clearly deserves a place in the FAQ section and I am sure it will be a help to the next person that wants to tackle something similar or even just getting to the power wash pump more easily.

I believe your write up pertained to the pre-facelift cars and was wondering if you have the same underside access with the newer style bumpers post-2003?

Doug

 

Agreed with the place in the FAQ. I don't need this information NOW, but if I ever DO need it, I hope I can find it again.
Good job marv.

 

excellent write up!

 

How would I get this into the FAQ section?

 

Hey Marvin a quick question. I recently had the powerwash gizmo replaced at a local independent Jaguar specialist (apparently even the local dealer sends cars to them on occasion). It took the guy quite a while to get the headlight (driver's side) out in order to remove and replace the powerwash. I was not watching closely but I do not believe he had bothered to remove the wheel or the wheel liner so he may have been using a method similar to yours (reaching through the access opening, etc.)

One thing that slightly bothers me now is that the headlight seems to fit flush on the inboard edge (closest to the centerline of the car) but is out a bit at the bottom at the outboard edge. It is not really all that visually noticeable but if I run my finger along the bottom of the headlight and compare with the one on the passenger side, I can definitely feel the headlight is sticking out a slight bit (probably less than 1/4").

I am sort of **** about these types of things but, of more concern, I wonder if the headlight is aimed correctly. I don't care to futz around with this myself and may ask the mechanic about adjusting when I go back to them. But from your experience, what might have gone wrong at the reinstall to cause this?

Doug

 

Doug,


When I contemplate what I did for my car, I would have to say it possibly has to do with the 13mm bolt. Hold both of your hands up like you're holding the headlight. Picture your left hand pinky finger being the location for the bolt and the lower right side of your right hand palm being where your light feels "out a bit". You can see how if the assembly is too far back at the 13mm bolt how it would push the opposite corner out.


If this is the case, I bet the mechanic pushed on the light too hard while tightening the bolt. Take a wrench and loosen the bolt and see if it goes back to flush again.


I don't think it would be the T40 screw unless...the mechanic didn't put it back in due to the difficulty. That would keep the outer edge of the light out about 1/16th to 1/8th inch out. That's how far my T40 screw was out of alignment and why I ended up loosening the 8mm bolts.

 

Marvin--are you saying that loosening ONLY that 13mm bolt a bit will enable some movement/adjustment without needing to loosen/remove anything else?

Doug

 

All done Marvin, but we like to call it the "How To" section now.

Or it will be when the forum let's me edit the HOW TO thread.

 

You may have to loosen the T30 screw to allow for movement at well. The T40 would then act as a pivot point.

 

Thank you sir for this post with the slideshow. I just replaced both headlight lens and your post made the task go extra smooth. Your information and pictures were spot on. Thanks!

 

Thanks to M. D. Miller for all the excellent photos showing where to find the mounting screws for the headlamp assembly and the access points. Don't think you can access the lower screw on the left/US driver side of the second series, 4.2L cars, through the access opening, as the filler tube for the windshield wash reservoir is totally in the way. Peeling back the front half of the plastic wheel well liner was not too difficult on my car - three pop/speed fasteners and one plastic nut - and it can be tucked out of the way behind the wheel hub. I had to remove the whole assembly from the car, as the connection tabs were too stiff/brittle to unhook in place. Two other hints: the horizontal screw next to the radiator needs to be backed off at least an eighth of an inch to allow enough play to position the assembly going back in, and by removing the clear plastic bulb access cover on top of the assembly, you gain an excellent handhold to both pull the assembly out and position it back in.