Headrest fix?
#81
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You guys are making this way harder than it needs to be. Rather than cut the cable housing, and so on... just get a new "longer" inner cable made at a speedometer shop. 18 3/4" should do it! No cutting the housing, no waiting for the heat shrink thing to fail, no revisiting the problem in the future.
#82
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You guys are making this way harder than it needs to be. Rather than cut the cable housing, and so on... just get a new "longer" inner cable made at a speedometer shop. 18 3/4" should do it! No cutting the housing, no waiting for the heat shrink thing to fail, no revisiting the problem in the future.
Last edited by Old Matelots; 05-18-2021 at 01:31 PM.
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cgaechief (05-18-2021)
#83
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You guys are making this way harder than it needs to be. Rather than cut the cable housing, and so on... just get a new "longer" inner cable made at a speedometer shop. 18 3/4" should do it! No cutting the housing, no waiting for the heat shrink thing to fail, no revisiting the problem in the future.
Last edited by cgaechief; 05-18-2021 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Matelots (05-18-2021)
#84
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Actually looking up, finding, calling, visiting, waiting for them to make or get the cable and then returning home with it sounds like a whole lot more trouble than doing what I just did. You still have to take everything apart to get the cable off. It took me less than 15 minutes to snip, drill, push back together and crimp. I don't know how long your method takes, but it also cost X amount as well, and this cost 0˘. I guess in the end as long as we are all happy with where we are. I am an impatient bugger. I like things done now, so I prefer my way. No heatshrink. You need to watch the video I posted.
Since you need to either knock down the crimped areas and use heat to get the sleeve back in the ferrule, or both, im thinking you might not have sufficient clamping force on the sleeve which could allow separation over time. Heating the sleeve to get it in suggests the plastic on the sleeve is deforming allowing the sleeve to be grooved as it slides over the remaining crimped portions. A grooved sleeve and knocked down crimps would not hold it too well. Idk. Im all for redneck engineering and ive done lots of stuff like this in a pinch but it’s typically hit or miss as to the long term reliability. Plus with my fat fingers and the joint pain ive developed, grabbing and pushing and wiggling small things can be painful. And if its real easy to insert then its real easy to separate as well.
just thinking out loud. Thats why if I can find a cheap albeit lengthier solution so if I can live with the delay, I go for the cheap more robust fix.
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cgaechief (05-19-2021)
#85
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Just thought that I would check back in . My adjustable, quick and dirty Tygon method will be 10 years old the 27th of this month. Neither have failed, or have had to be adjusted longer or shorter. My post #64 on this thread was about 4 years into my fix. My Fix
I'm not saying my fix is best, but it is hard to argue with any fix that stands the test of time. I still run mine up and down, daring them to fail.
I'm not saying my fix is best, but it is hard to argue with any fix that stands the test of time. I still run mine up and down, daring them to fail.
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cgaechief (05-19-2021)
#87
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After I fixed the common and known problem with cable, both headrests started to work. However this one in my video (passanger side) goes up only when pressing button on the seat repeatedly. And it also does not retract when pressing recline seat button. Could the motor be worn? I had the similar issue with steering column tilting. I had to repeatedly press the button it in order to adjust it. After changing the motor (part nr. JLM12186) it started to work as usual. But this seems to like some switch issue to me.
Thank you.
Thank you.
#88
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People talk about the headrest getting stuck in the up position. I don't have that problem. My driver's side headrest will go up and down just fine as long as it does not bottom out. You have to keep a 1/2 inch between the top of the seat back and the bottom of the headrest. If you don't and it touches the top of the headrest, you have to reach around with your hand and lift, while simultaneously pressing up on the switch to get it started. Then it works fine until you forget and bottom it out again. I have never did a mod and this just started happening after going in for service. Apparently someone that drove it, pushed the headrest down or ran it all the way down. In any case, I cannot prove it. Any idea why mine is doing what it is doing?
#89
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Our 2006 XK8 convertible was delivered to our house last night. Beautiful car, my wife loves it. She's out driving around right now with a big grin on her face....
Just a few issues, and the headrest problem is Issue #1. The drivers headrest works fine. The passenger headrest is stuck in full-up giraffe position. It is driving my wife nuts. The motor runs, but no headrest movement occurs. Is the problem always fixed by the electrical tape / sheath approach covered in this thread?
My wife would be happy if I could just get the passenger headrest to drop to the full-down position and stay there. Is there a way to do that without taking the seat apart?
Thanks for any input those of you who have already been through this issue can add....
Just a few issues, and the headrest problem is Issue #1. The drivers headrest works fine. The passenger headrest is stuck in full-up giraffe position. It is driving my wife nuts. The motor runs, but no headrest movement occurs. Is the problem always fixed by the electrical tape / sheath approach covered in this thread?
My wife would be happy if I could just get the passenger headrest to drop to the full-down position and stay there. Is there a way to do that without taking the seat apart?
Thanks for any input those of you who have already been through this issue can add....
#90
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