I tried to have a go at replacing it. Simple plug and play? Not!

My speaker was connected to a connector that has a whole mess of wires to it. The speaker I bought is identical, but the connector is different and the wire is shorter.

Either someone has messed down there before or I bought the wrong part. As is, the old speaker seems undisconectable and the new can't be connected to the same port as the old one.

I bought the speaker according to my vin number.

Any thoughts?

 

Cut and splice

 

Didn't want to go there, but I guess I'll have to.

 

Go bolder and solder.....?

Graham

 

I always use a soldering iron.

bob gauff

 

The point of buying the Jag part was for it to just be plug and play. I'm wondering if the current wiring is why my speaker is not working instead of the speaker itself being bad?

 

Disconnect the battery before you cut anything.

 

What guarantees me that the new speaker will work the same way the old one is wired?

 

I agree with you. Take out the old and install the new.

 

If you are concerned about the speaker circuit then just get some mini alligator/crocodile clips on wires and 'jump' the new speaker into the circuit.

If the new loudspeaker makes the appropriate noises then continue with the install!!!!!!!!!!!

The reason I solder in the new one is that the wiring is routed so as to make replacing it 'as assembled' nearly impossible. The connector or loudspeaker will not go through all the little spaces in the column.

Sometimes the connector is wrong OR I just get a small one from and OLD JUNK radio and use that.

bob gauff

 

When it comes to electrics and audio I'm a novice so could you please be a little more informative. What are mini alligator/crocodile clips? Where can I get them? I'm imagining something akin to the booster cables for car batteries but very tiny in size.

Can it be done without soldering? I'm guessing since it's all just electron and proton flow, properly wiring up the cathode and anode to the positive and negative wire will work. Looking at the wires however, I can't seem to figure out which is which.

The old speaker looks almost intact except for the center bubble being concave unlike the new one's which is convex. They are otherwise identical.

Same size, same color, same specs (64 Ohm resistance). It's just a matter of the wiring.

I really thought buying the Jaguar part would've solved any compatibility problems. If I have the time later today, I'll post a picture of the connector in the new speaker compared to the mess in the steering column.

Somewhere I read that I can test the current wiring with old headphones. Could I use my iPhone's headphones to do so without making them unusable with my phone?

 

My understanding is with speakers the wire polarity is not important unless you have multiple speakers, in that case they must all be wired the same. Think your home stereo, if you wire the speakers in reverse they still work. A speaker is a speaker, no difference!

Yes alligator clips are just small clips that can penetrate the wire coating to make contact with the bare wire inside without cutting the wire. If you do this be sure to tape the wire afterward so no corrosion can start. You live on an island with a high salt air quota so corrosion is deadly.

Attached is the wiring diagram for my 03, probaly the same for your MY. The speaker does connect to a 12 way connector SC1.

As I mentioned earlier, cut and splice. This is not a high voltage application, soldering is best but just striping back the insulation and using a small wire nut will work also. Wrap the wire nut with electricial tape to seal it.

 

Cut and splice worked fine. I may have to redo it. Either I'm going deaf or the volume on the new speaker is low. My gf claims it is too loud now.

It's better than nothing.

 

Front of the audible warning speaker next to a US half dollar for scale, original part from the car.




Back of the audible warning speaker next to a US half dollar for scale, original part pulled from the car.

Remember to disconnect battery ground. There are two screws to remove on the lower cowl of the steering column to access the speaker. I don't know how you would install an original OEM speaker with attached plug because where it connects into the multiplug harness is back almost under the dash and basically inaccessible unless you take the steering wheel out (no thanks).

We cut the dead speaker off and connected a speaker salvaged from a desktop computer speaker. We didn't solder the wires because it was a challenge to work around the steering wheel so just stripped insulation off and secured with electrical tape. Works pretty well and now we hear all sorts of warning chimes and the tick tock sound of the turn signal. And now that we know the problem was with the speaker we'll buy a 64ohm replacement, as the salvaged speaker was just an 8.

I've attached an MP3 sound recording of the chimes sounds when you turn the key to Run (you'll hear the warning tone that the seat belt is not buckled) followed by the tick tock of the turn signal.

 

After all my notification tones stopped working I thought no big deal, then I promptly left the headlights on and drained the battery. Now I was reminded why they call the lights (and tones) "Idiot Lights"

After another good dose of reading here I did the troubleshooting with a multi-meter and an old speaker from some headphones to ensure speaker was not the only problem. Took all of 2 minutes after reading for 30.

Ordered two (1 spare) new speakers from mcm electronics $1.29 each and $8 shipping that are an almost perfect match and should be a good replacement. 66mm 64ohm .3 W where the factory was a .5-.7W. If I understand speakers right this speaker should keep any undue stress on the parts generating the tone.

Funny part was when I called a guy on craigslist parting out a 15 year old car that wanted me to pull the part and pay $35. Should have the new part in 4 days from and will solder in on the old wires as suggested.

 

Hey Gian -
I know this is a very old thread, but I'm trying to replace my turn signal speaker now. I've watched the "To The Garage" video on YouTube and thought it would be pretty easy, but now I'm not so sure. I took out the two phillips head screws (easy!), but now how do I get the plastic case off? My car is a 2005 with the power steering wheel adjustment so it's not as easy as it looked in the video. I'm afraid to yank on brittle 16 year old plastic (actually 17 year old since the production date was June 2004). How and where do I grab or grip to take that part off? Also it sounds like you found a nest of wires, instead of the neat and tidy wiring from the YouTube video. I guess I'll worry about that when I get it. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
Norm

 

This thread was pertinent to the black Jag XK8 convertible, model year 2000 that I had back then. I don't know if there were any changes down there in the years since regarding the wires. Now, my memory is a bit foggy, but if I recall correctly, you first want to turn off the auto-adjust function for the steering column and set the steering wheel to the lowest and forwardmost position. After having removed the screws, the plastic case has a seam in the middle. You want to separate the two halves. The bottom half will come off first. After that, the upper half is easier to remove. If you do not move the steering wheel to the position I mentioned, the steering column case will not come out. If you do not turn off the auto-adjust function, the steering wheel will return to its highest, most retracted position as soon as you take the key out of the ignition.

That specific plastic is very tough. You won't break it, but you may dent the seams if trying to pry the two halves loose with something like a metal flathead screwdriver. I think you can fit a finger (if it fits) in the shrouded hole beneath the wiper and turn signal stalks for leverage and pull down on the bottom half to free it.

 

Thanks for the quick response! Just to clarify, when you say "forward-most position" you mean closer/towards the driver and not "as close to the dash as possible," right?
I'll try to give it another shot this weekend. Thanks again!

 

Yes, towards the driver.