Help, I get nothing when hitting the starter
#1
Resolved, I get nothing when hitting the starter
I got the car out of winter storage on Sunday. Unlocked car, removed battery tender, started up just fine. Ran great for three days. Wednesday, went to start the car, turned key on, system check fine, turned key to starter, and absolutely nothing. No clicks, nothing. I have not checked voltage on battery, but I do not suspect lie voltage at this time, as it is only one year old and just was fully charged. I did find that gear selector would not go out of park with brake pedal depressed and ignition on. I did try transmission lock override to shift to neutral, but still nothing. It acts like the security module does not recognize the key. I tried both keys and valet key with same result. I have known issues with SLCM, key fob does not work, and convertible top pump will not function properly due to water damage. I find it odd that I cannot shift out of park with the ignition on. Should I be looking at brake switch or security module? Or should I be looking at something else? I would love to replace the security module, but I have not found one that I feel is compatible as I am not positive which one to get, as the one in the car appears to have been replaced.
Last edited by dcarlo; 04-01-2021 at 05:25 PM. Reason: resolved
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I had a similar issue with my 1997 XK8. There is a starter relay in the engine area. In my case I just reseated it and the starter began working again. My relay is located is located on the passenger side. It is in a group of three relays mounted at the top of the inner fender wall. The information about these relays is located on the fuse assembly in the trunk. The advantage is that reseating/swapping the relay is quick and painless.
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#10
My battery in my 2000 just failed. What you describe sounds similiar to my experience. I had the battery on a charger and it appeared to be charged up, Checked with a muti meter at about 12.7 volts and looked good. Tried to start the car, nada. Voltage drop to about 12.2 and soon as any load was put on it. LIkely a dead cell. Most places will load test your battery for free.
#11
David, you may be correct. I had good voltage yesterday after taking off the charger. This morning it was 12.4 volts and would not start. I use the key to unlock the door and the locks wanted to cycle several times, trunk button would not work either, both signs of low battery. The battery is less than 2 years old, but works rather the battery failed than an unknown voltage draw to track down. My next step would be to disconnect and charge the battery and check after 12 hours or so to see if disconnected battery still has voltage drop. Honestly hoping it does.
#12
David, you may be correct. I had good voltage yesterday after taking off the charger. This morning it was 12.4 volts and would not start. I use the key to unlock the door and the locks wanted to cycle several times, trunk button would not work either, both signs of low battery. The battery is less than 2 years old, but works rather the battery failed than an unknown voltage draw to track down. My next step would be to disconnect and charge the battery and check after 12 hours or so to see if disconnected battery still has voltage drop. Honestly hoping it does.
#13
Now is the time to start using your battery tender on the new battery whenever the car is going to sit overnight or longer. Most tenders include cables that are permanently attached to the battery and allow for a very easy hooking up of the tender.
just a few extra seconds added to the maintenance routine will keep your new battery new.
Z
just a few extra seconds added to the maintenance routine will keep your new battery new.
Z
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RJ237 (04-04-2021)
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