Help needed please - spinning wheel stud, can't remove lug nut or wheel
#21
I think you're always better off in a situation like this with a corded drill. My 35-year-old Skil can still drill through most screws and bolts with the right drill bit....
I think drill bit recommendations will vary by size and scope of the job. For the last five years or so, my set of Bosch drill bits has performed well for me....
I have a cordless DeWalt drill that my wife gave me for Christmas maybe ten years ago. Even when new it couldn't handle more than 15 minutes of solid use before giving up the ghost and having to switch battery packs. I rarely bother dragging it out nowadays....
I think drill bit recommendations will vary by size and scope of the job. For the last five years or so, my set of Bosch drill bits has performed well for me....
I have a cordless DeWalt drill that my wife gave me for Christmas maybe ten years ago. Even when new it couldn't handle more than 15 minutes of solid use before giving up the ghost and having to switch battery packs. I rarely bother dragging it out nowadays....
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mike66 (07-10-2013)
#22
Remove the center wheel plastic badge, use the right socket to remove the nut and then, using a hub extractor or a 2-3 legged press, remove the wheel-hub-disc assembly (there are also the caliper bolts that must be removed). You are very unlucky with this problem!
Last edited by flay; 07-10-2013 at 01:46 PM.
#23
I use drills with carbide or diamond tips for drilling hardened bolts such as this stud. It doesn't matter the cost of the drill, first, you can use it again some day and second, the cost of having the car flatbedded to a shop will cost far more than the tool. Carbide drills are cheapest and I would start there.
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mike66 (07-10-2013)
#25
I had a similar issue on my Ford Explorer, a tire shop cross threaded the wheel nut.
I put my impact wrench on it and spun the stud in the hub. I used my die grinder with a dual cut 1/2 inch carbide burr and ground the stud out of the nut. Then I had to replace the hub because the stud splines were stripped out.
I was going to TIG a new stud in the hub but whimped out...would have been fine I think.
I put my impact wrench on it and spun the stud in the hub. I used my die grinder with a dual cut 1/2 inch carbide burr and ground the stud out of the nut. Then I had to replace the hub because the stud splines were stripped out.
I was going to TIG a new stud in the hub but whimped out...would have been fine I think.
#26
Wheel Stud Spinning
Is there a possibility to get a mig welder or arc welder tip on the back side where one could weld the stud, then back the nut off the stud.
It sounds as if whatever you do, you will be pulling the hub to replace the stud. Simply gind the weld off once you have the hub off the car so you can get to the problem. This may prevent damage to the wheel.
It sounds as if whatever you do, you will be pulling the hub to replace the stud. Simply gind the weld off once you have the hub off the car so you can get to the problem. This may prevent damage to the wheel.
#27
#28
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2 things mentioned that ive done with success every time. Mig welder to tack the back of the stud was always a last resort. And most times i **** the wheel on the car and use my "great" ingersol rand with 700ft/lb reverse torque. It spins it quickly which is what you need and crappy slow torque wrench or by hand will never get it.
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The Coupe (07-11-2013)
#29
hi i am a newbie to the site. Just bought a 2003 s type. While trying to check out the brakes ran into some lug nuts which were rounded by assuming a impact wrench. 4 of the 5 i managed to loosing, however one was rounded enough and had to force my 19mm socket on it. Now the lug is spinning but not loosing up. I appreciate any help on what to do next other than going to a tire shop or the dealer for help.
thanks inadvance
thanks inadvance
#30
hi i am a newbie to the site. Just bought a 2003 s type. While trying to check out the brakes ran into some lug nuts which were rounded by assuming a impact wrench. 4 of the 5 i managed to loosing, however one was rounded enough and had to force my 19mm socket on it. Now the lug is spinning but not loosing up. I appreciate any help on what to do next other than going to a tire shop or the dealer for help.
thanks inadvance
thanks inadvance
First of all, welcome to the forum.
You may not want to take it to a mechanic for help, but that's what I recommend. My independent tech solved the problem in about 30 minutes, and it cost me about $80 for the work and the installation of a new stud. It's not a big job, if you've got the right tools.
No need to go to a Jag dealer...they will clean your pockets. Just find an experienced independent mechanics shop.
.
#31
Welcome to the forum, tony. If you read all the posts in this thread, I think you will see the logic of taking it to a shop, like the coupe says.
When you have time, please visit the new member area and introduce yourself. Link below:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
When you have time, please visit the new member area and introduce yourself. Link below:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
#32
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Welcome from me too Tony.
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One of our members in Tucson speaks highly of these guys FAST Intelligent Auto Repair | Tucson Land Rover, Jaguar, Prius, Mini repair | Specialists they have done some excellent work for him.
#33
Thanks everyone for welcoming me to the forum. I ended up taking the car to a midas shop which have had work done there in the past on my other cars. They ended up taking a impact cutting chisel to remove the stuck 19mm socket and outer lug cap off. they were then able to remove the remaining part of the lug off. The shop itself didn't charge me anything but i tipped the mechanic for the work he did. Took about 15 mins or so for him to remove it.
#34
Thanks everyone for welcoming me to the forum. I ended up taking the car to a midas shop which have had work done there in the past on my other cars. They ended up taking a impact cutting chisel to remove the stuck 19mm socket and outer lug cap off. they were then able to remove the remaining part of the lug off. The shop itself didn't charge me anything but i tipped the mechanic for the work he did. Took about 15 mins or so for him to remove it.
Is the stud still good, or do you need a new one installed?
.
#35
#36
Stuck Nut
Remove all nuts, locate the cross threaded nut at the 12 o'clock posititon. Raise the car at the affected wheel. Place something like a 4"X4"wood block under the affected tire. Lower the car so that all the weight is divided between the 2 opposite front and rear tires. Try to get your socket on the nut and loosen it.
#38
#39
The nut splitter idea sounds good to me. Once it splits, you might be able to work it off. Another idea would be to try to grab it with a slide hammer and pull it out. If you cut it off with a torch, I think it would be easier to drill out the remaining shank. Or you could weld something to it that you could grab onto.
Brett
Brett
#40
Remove all nuts, locate the cross threaded nut at the 12 o'clock posititon. Raise the car at the affected wheel. Place something like a 4"X4"wood block under the affected tire. Lower the car so that all the weight is divided between the 2 opposite front and rear tires. Try to get your socket on the nut and loosen it.
It is in no way a good idea to use and possibly damage the wheel to jam the stud in place and stick a jack stand under the car anticipating the car to drop onto it.
This can damage whatever is going to land on the jackstand, the wheel, the hub,the rotor, and possibly the person working on it.
The simplest solution was to take a chisel to the nut until it broke or some other method of cracking the nut open to pull it away from the stud.