Another leak reared it ugly head today. It is leaking from the hose (top of the T) that connects forward of the octopus hose connector and other end connects to the throttle body. The hose itself needs to be changed due to some swelling.

Connector to octopus hose OK

Do I need to change the T or just new hose and better clamp for the leaky hose/clamp?

Any chance someone has the part number for the hose in question?

Thanks all!

Cheers!

Andrew

 

Was able to get numbers off of hose: 3W83 9W539 AA2

EPDM N2M5B PL

Tried doing searches but, not coming up with any results?????????

 

Try sngbarratt.com. The online catalog has pictures of all the cooling system hoses, but it can be hard to navigate. Look under the 'water valve' listing and I think you'll find all of the hoses at the back of the engine. They will send you a catalog.

 

+1 on SNGbarratts website hard to navigate! Can't find what I'm looking for after searching their site for 30 minutes or better. Will give them a call in the AM.and try to figure it out. Thanks for the response.

Why do they put part numbers on parts/hoses that can't be searched?

 

JEPC shows:

3W83..... sounds like a Ford part #?

I'd replace the tee - it's only about $6

 

Michaelh, Thats the one I need #9. That connector (the T) looks like it could be trouble getting out and reinstalling, Just saying, lol
Please excuse my ignorance I am not familiar with JEPC? Also I do not see a part number listed or a way to access it in the schematic?

Thanks in advance

Cheers!

Andrew

 

Part # is listed on LHS of pic - there are two shown split on VIN. Earlier one is superseded, so you want AJ88519. The change coincides with the 2003.5 MY intro

The tee separates from the octopus by twisting then pulling: The plastic moulding on the end of it is shaped to disengage the two 'ears' on the octopus when it's rotated (at least mine was, although I can't remember which way, but you should be able to see). Just go easy as it's Jaguar plastic. One poor soul here managed to break an ear off his octopus

Worth changing though as it can crack and leak. Part # NNE3944BA

HTH,
Mike

 

Thank you, Mike

You were a big help as always. Was able to find everything on Ebay for under $30. All parts ordered are OEM parts to boot.

Tried searching the forum for more info on removing the three way connector. I understand your description for removing but, some pictures or pictures off the connector apart would be great. I know I have a tendency to over think and research everything to death. In this case I feel it is warranted because I really don't want to screw up the octopus end of the connection. Like you said it is "Jaguar" plastic.

Cheers!

Andrew

 

Well, you're in luck. I kept all the old replaced plumbing parts.

Mrs H calls me an inveterate hoarder, and we have plenty of space to store 'stuff' atm. This is going to bite me in the *ss shortly as we're looking to downsize this year

I've attached (tried to attach but the editor insists on putting them inline) some closeups of the octopus/tee connector; the first shows the normal 'locked' state, the second unlocked (essentially the two parts rotated 90 degrees with respect to each other). You will see that the 'ears' on the octupus half are splayed and disengaged from the locking ring on the tee. In this state the two halves can be pulled apart.

Third is a rather fuzzy image showing the two tabs on the tee that do the disengaging. I thought they were only chamfered on one edge, however it's both which means it doesn't matter which way the joint is twisted.

Hope this makes sense...

Normal locked position


Unlocked


Closeup of locking ring tabs

Closeup of locking ring tabs

Anyone else find some of the recent post editor changes are a PITA or is it just me?

 

Mike, thanks for the pictures. I totally get it. Not to beat a dead horse but. When you're disconnecting the fitting are you turning the ring on the octopus side (does it turn) or are you just turning the T to release. Thanks in advane.

 

I'm assuming you've already removed the wee hose 9 off the tee piece? You will have more give on the tee side since there's the length of the valley hose to play with but there's some flex at the octopus too.
The seal is made by an O ring on the metal sleeve inside the octopus connector (which you'll see once the connection is apart). Probably worth replacing this at the same time. I use silicone spray to ease reassembly - it makes the plastic look nice too...

Note in pic #1 I have the tee 180 out so it laid best to take the photo.

 

Hey Mike

Car is still together as I am awaiting parts. My plan is to take out hose 9 first then the valley hose end. Figured it would be easier to get the connector released with nothing else hooked up to it.

You would think that a new O ring would be included with the new connector? I will hunt one down from the Auto parts store or a Marine supply store.

Regarding clamps: I know their seems to be differing opinions on whether to re use the Cobra type clips over again. Many times I find they are not really tight before removing them so why re use them? I have switched off to SSteel marine clamps with a solid band which I believe work much better than standard hose clamps. They are much easier to work with and they seem to do a very nice job. Not cheap but, beats having leaks and having to do it over again.

Hope all is well, and as always thanks for the guidance.

Cheers!

Andrew

 

I'm afraid you only get the O ring with the $120 octopus as it's on that half of the connector - not the $5 tee

Not quite as many opinions as there are on synthetic vs dino oil

I've always re-used the original OEM clips when the new plumbing hasn't come with them. They have some 'give' for expansion that worm drive clamps don't.
Haven't had any issues with leaks (touch wood) so far...

 

Can't believe you brought up the oil discussion lol. As far as the clamps what works works for us all.No opinion, I guess. Cheers my fiend thank you.

 

Nope. No argument. Olive oil is best - 'specially for stir fries.

Good luck!

 

agreed!

 

Well, all back together but, still waiting for overflow line (Tstat to Reservoir). That T connector at octopus is no joy taking out or replacing. Very little room to work and everything moves while trying to get the fitting off or on. I did replace the O ring on the octopus hose end by matching it up with one at the auto parts store. Getting this fitting out was a bear because it didn't want to turn so I could release the tabs. I sprayed a little PB blaster on the connector overnight and that seems to have done the trick.

On my forth or fifth attempt to get the new connector back on with the new O ring (very tight) I tried some water based sex lube on the fitting and that did the trick. Figured it was water based and it has worked for me in the past (for other reasons) so why not.

Hope it helps someone out there.

Cheers!

Andrew

 

Just run a section of 5/16-inch transmission line or fuel line rubber hose from the thermostat to the coolant reservoir. Much more resilient and durable than the lousy plastic OEM hose....

 

Er - that's wayyy too much information
Mmm. Perhaps a theme for David Attenborough's Life on Earth: 'The intimate life of the Octopus'.

I keep looking at that line too. I'd like something that lays along the engine cover tidily (OCD), although Jon89 has suggested the most logical approach.

 

The intimate life of the Octopus'.
Too funny! You can't argue with what works though. Sometimes you have to think outside the box. hahhaha

Jon: I agree. I just went the oem route when this mishap happened. Parts on the way but, if I had to do it over again I would probably opt for a better fix like you described. Then again if it gives me another 15 years I can't bitch.

Cheers!

Andrew