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If you were replacing the water pump, upper and lower hoses, the short hose just mentioned by Gus below, the thermostat tower, the thermostat, and the crossover pipe like I plan this weekend, is there a particular order that makes the most sense?
Thanks!
"Just be sure that all the surface is clean and you should replace the short hose between the tower and the crossover pipe."
Once you have the coolant drained take the radiator hoses off and flush the radiator and then the engine until the water comes out nice and clean. Its a mess but this way you can see if any gelled clumps come out in case someone mixed incompatible coolants at some point.
After that take off the crossover, short hose, t-stat housing etc. Then take off and replace the water pump. Then replace everything else. Thats how I did it anyways. Went pretty smooth actually. Just that one bolt. Then fill it and look for obvious leaks. Then I started it and let it idle about 30 mins. I left the reservoir cap off until the t-stat opened and then topped it off again, Then burped it by squeezing the hoses and added a little more. Then put the cap on and watched for leaks for the remainder of the 30 mins. There were none so I took it for a drive and let it cool and it needed about another pint and since then its been stable.
If you are using a different coolant than whats in there or if its contaminated remember to drain the recovery container in the fender.
The lower left radiator spring hose clamp is impossible to get off and don't even think about reusing it unless you have an assortment of hose clamp pliers including something that looks like this:
I plan to install a new hose and use a new screw clamp as you recommend.
Originally Posted by test point
One final note:
The lower left radiator spring hose clamp is impossible to get off and don't even think about reusing it unless you have an assortment of hose clamp pliers including something that looks like this:
Dave, since I am replacing the lower hose, I was going to just cut it off, let the radiator drain, and then remove the remaining hose and clamp. In terms of coolant, my car has always had the old green stuff, so I plan to replace it with that.
What do you mean by the term side cutter?
?[QUOTE=DaveInVA;1409339]I just took a big pair of side cutters and cut the damn clamp (where it clips together) and replaced with a screw clamp.
When using screw clamps just be careful not to over tighten them and crack the plastic. The idea behind the spring clamps was that they are supposed to self adjust with temp and expansion and probably so the assembly line people wouldn't break the plastic connections. That and they wanted to sell lots of spring clamp tools.
[QUOTE=Madbrad;1409361]Dave, since I am replacing the lower hose, I was going to just cut it off, let the radiator drain, and then remove the remaining hose and clamp. In terms of coolant, my car has always had the old green stuff, so I plan to replace it with that.
What do you mean by the term side cutter?
?
Originally Posted by DaveInVA
I just took a big pair of side cutters and cut the damn clamp (where it clips together) and replaced with a screw clamp.
There is a part of the clamp that has a link thinner that the rest of the clamp that the tool crimps. If you cut that you can pry the clamp off.
I went to the site and read the instructions. Thanks. Do you remember the torque setting for the reattachments of the four bolts in the crossover pipe?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Gus
This is how I did my thermostat housing and water pump
I do not recall at the moment but I can look it up tomorrow.
Gus
www.jagrepair.com
Originally Posted by Madbrad
I went to the site and read the instructions. Thanks. Do you remember the torque setting for the reattachments of the four bolts in the crossover pipe?
I have just begun the project of water pump, hose, thermostat tower replacement. Question?
How do you crimp the clamp on the small hose pictured? It looks pretty delicate. I have never taken one of these off before. I did just buy hose clamp pliers, but I want to make sure I am grabbing onto the right part of the clamp.
Went ahead and replaced the thermostat while I was waiting for the rest of the parts, given that it was presumed to be the culprit. Anyway, I replaced the thermostat and now the car overheats. The top hose is hot, the tank is full, but no heat comes out of the heating system. I cut the car off and see the needle starts racing to the red.
Thoughts? No use proceeding with the rest of the job if this did not solve the problem. The rest of the work was purely preventative in nature. By the way, I did install the thermostat with the brass piece in the top position.
You might have an air cavity there keeping the coolant from reaching the T-stat. Or Defective T-stat, test it in a pot of water and a quick read thermometer. Also there is usually a small bleed hole in the rim of the t-stat and that should be at the 12 o'clock position. That allows any air to bleed through. But it seems your new t-stat isn't opening but an air pocket could cause that.
I think you are on the something Dave. I kept running it knowing that I correctly installed the new t-stat. Every time I cut it off, I let it sit for a while, then I reopened the system and I could hear a lot of gurgling. Each time it got better and better and finally I could feel the heat from the AC system. I had to refill the reservoir two times. No more overheating and no more fans. I will let it sit and cool overnight and then refill. I have never had this problem before. BMW's have a purge valve so its easy. Anyway, with the problem I started to solve now fixed, I will be hard pressed to take everything back off. I will keep the parts though so that when I replace the t-stat in a couple of years I can do the whole thing then. Hopefully I did not do any damage with the repeated overheating (I always cut it off before the red. Seems to be fine. No use worrying about it because there is nothing I can do about!
As always, thanks to you and everyone else for your find assistance.
Originally Posted by DaveInVA
You might have an air cavity there keeping the coolant from reaching the T-stat. Or Defective T-stat, test it in a pot of water and a quick read thermometer. Also there is usually a small bleed hole in the rim of the t-stat and that should be at the 12 o'clock position. That allows any air to bleed through. But it seems your new t-stat isn't opening but an air pocket could cause that.
02-23-2016, 05:37 PM
