After 112k I question how much longer the starter would last. The left hand one was only £64 ...$80 and as you are not going to change this at the side of the road . The unit came from AltStart Ltd altstart1@gmail.com or via ebay. inc post for the supply and return of the old unit.
Changing the Starter on a RHD XK8
This took me about 8 hrs but with what I know now and if you follow my tips you could do it in 3 or 4. For the RHD you need to remove the steering rack. You cannot even see the starter motor when you get under.
1/ I was using my giant 12in ramps with hydraulic lift to 16in but if you are on a wheel free you dont need to do this .
Remove the RH wheel and break the track rod end .leave it loose but thread the nut on only a few threads. Replace the wheel.
Drive up the ramps. Go under and release the end of the track rod.
2/ Release the bolt that holds the two hydraulic pipes to the rack. Disconnect the electrical connector. If the dearth cable is in the way release the body end Put a jack under the centre of the rack and remove the 4 holding bolts.
You must use 6 sided sockets throughout and you won't do it without a full-size rattle gun, air or battery. Pull rack back slightly and locate the joint at the bottom of the steering column.
3/ Take the bolt out the lower joint by the rack. Find a shorter bolt of the same size ( 8mm) and insert it into the thread on the opposite side to where the bolt was. Into the slit in the joint put a strip of metal..I had the end of a knife blade handy. Wind in the bolt against the knife blade as hard as you can. This will open the joint and it will come off easy . Note the alignment for when you refit and dont take the bolt out or you will never get the joint back on the spline.

Sorry on the quality done with the phone not the normal Nikon

Ease the rack back and pull off the column joint.
4/ Cut the two plastic tie wraps that hold the LH pipe and you will notice one pipe goes between the rack and two feed pipes . Riggle and twist to get the pipe out as you pull the rack back.
Hey guess what ? You can now see the starter motor.

Changing the starter LHD and RHD
Once you have the rack out the way there is no difference Left or Right-hand drive . ON the LHD you dont need to touch the rack.
6/ Remove the oil filter ..you can reuse it and the alternator air scoop.
7/ Open the drivers door to drop the window and disconnect the battery. Remove the electrical connections 8mm and 13 mm. Keep the nuts
8/ Now the bit that will save you hours .
you must have this arrangement to remove the top starter bolt .



The final part of the extensions must be 126mm or 4.96 in long or you will waste hours.


Must be a six sided socket ..I cut one and ground the end hence the tape to hold the socket.

Take out the lower bolt and then insert the bar and socket shown above between the motor and solenoid working from the oil filter area .Once you have it on the head of the bolt fit the joint . extension and rattle it off . The starter will drop out Hooray !!

9/ Fit the new motor ...You will not get the top bolt in from below ,you cannot even feel the hole. Do this .
The end of the bolt has no thread so use insulation tape to wrap the end of the thread so its a tight fit in the top hole . Leave the unthreaded bit sticking out like a location pin. Fit the motor Tighten the bottom bolt fully. Insert your extension from the oil filter area and get it onto the nut head ..you can feel this . Fit the joint and extension and rattle it in.
Connect the electrical cables. For a LHD thats job done . For RHD you got to put the rack back ..what joy.
10/ Riggle the rack forwards and pass the fluid pipe between the rack body and the two thinner pipes then align the column joint and push it home, remove the knife blade and bolt and refit the original. Fit the 4 rack holding bolts and the track rod end . Push it up with a jack to get it to bite. Refit the fluid pipes and the cable ties .. Refit oil filter and air scoop. Top up the fluid reservoir and after starting the engine move the steering side to side a few times .. Mine was very noisy but much air in the fluid . left it to settle and it was fine.
Tighten the wheel nuts
Think thats it .....

 

When roadtested the steering wheel was about 20 deg to the left ..very anoying but with fine splines its difficult to get it dead on .
Solution...... Open the drivers door . disconnect battery for 20 min.Rotate steering wheel 90deg to straight ahead and insert torx 30 into hole in rear of wheel and undo ..bolt does not fall out. Rotated the other way 90 deg and remove the other nut . Remove the air bag . One connector only Rotate wheel to 20 deg left ..undo central nut ( 17mm) and reposition wheel . Refit airbag ,battery and reset windows.
Just another little pain in the *** to deal with ...15 min job

 

I don't recall ever seeing that trick before. It's a great idea. Thanks. 👍

Richard

 

It called 40 yeas in the motor trade

 

Unfortunately, I've spent 55 years as a DIY mechanic correcting the horrendous mistakes made by the Motor Trade. ☹

Richard

 

Sadly the qualification for getting into the motor trade is "my uncle owns the garage" coupled with no GCSEs ignoring the training they got and following the methods of there ignorant work mates the worst are the lazy ones who join the AA/RAC workforce

 

This would be a great sticky

Jack