HOW TO: Cleaning the Wheel Speed Sensors FAQ
#122
#124
Sadly all the code diagnostic equipment here in Mex for Jaguars is "basico" so no codes available on the scanner at all... I have only the message traction control unavailable + ASC unavailable & the ABS light in the speedo illuminated yellow.
#125
Okay when you shut the car down and wait about a minute or so and start it up it runs for a while and soon you get the message again; Yes? I was getting this same message and kept cleaning the sensors and sure they were dirty but that is not your problem. You problem sounds like your throttle body is sticking. I do not recommend cleaning it yourself it can cause more damange and require you to buy a new one.However it can be cleaned with some throttle body cleaner and it might work for you. Here are your options. 1, Have the throttle body pulled and sent to someone who specializes in reman throttle bodies. 2, Check Ebay which is where i found mine and it works just fine. or buy a new from the dealer and that you will not want to do because that is going to be very expensive and if you cleaning your own sensors it may be obvious you are trying to save some money. 3, There is also a company in California Jaytran that specializes in reman throttle bodies but be sure you give the the correct part number and vin because they make some mistakes 4, Do your homework online and you can find a deal on one not so costly as that you will find at the dealer. A good mechanic will cost you about 120.00 to slap that puppy on for you. But that is what sounds like is your problem. My dealer here in my state wanted to charge me 2100.00 for the part and another 300.00 to put the part on my Jag. I found the part on Ebay for 185.00 and got a Mechanic to put it on for 120.00 and car runs fine. I plan to send my original throttle body to Jaytran to have it rebuilt and put it back on my XJR. Without the code we cannot be 100% sure but i was getting the same message and I did the same thing you doing for over a year until I finally went to the dealer to get the code and found that it was in fact the throttle body. I surely did not want to hear it but i am glad i did I now have some peace of mind while rolling in the fast lane again. I hope it works out for you and best of luck...
#126
Thanks! In the meantime the car runs perfectly except for the annoying message and normal brakes. I have never had traction control so I admit to not missing it.
Mostly I use the car to run around my local area -with the roof down smiling- so I hope to have plenty of time to find an inexpensive throttle body.
Anyhow I am going to try repair/ replace the ABS module first - hell it's cheaper so why not...
Mostly I use the car to run around my local area -with the roof down smiling- so I hope to have plenty of time to find an inexpensive throttle body.
Anyhow I am going to try repair/ replace the ABS module first - hell it's cheaper so why not...
Last edited by Mexk8; 03-18-2012 at 04:32 PM.
#128
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waltwagner (05-09-2012)
#130
#131
#132
ABS/ Traction control
Checklist for above mentioned fault light:
- Check battery to be ok.
- Check fuses.
- Pull contacts on sensors and control module, clean and reconnect.
- Clean wheelspeed sensors.
- Measure harness resistance ( different for different models ).
- Pull ABS control module, open, and resolder contact for pump ( lower right corner of module viewed from the front )
Lots of information in FAQ section.
- Check battery to be ok.
- Check fuses.
- Pull contacts on sensors and control module, clean and reconnect.
- Clean wheelspeed sensors.
- Measure harness resistance ( different for different models ).
- Pull ABS control module, open, and resolder contact for pump ( lower right corner of module viewed from the front )
Lots of information in FAQ section.
#133
This FAQ is also pretty relevant to the XJ40. I just saw this today and followed same steps, only difference being that the sensors were not removable (at least not easily) so I just hit with a little brake cleaner and wiped off with rag. Worked nicely. I was wondering if anyone found if you can clean out the rear tone ring. I am tempted to hose it down with brake cleaner but don't want to ruin anything.
I will just go put back together and hope for the best for now, but if they act up again, I would really like to clean those out.
Thank you very much for this walk through! And thanks in advance to any who have an answer for me!
I will just go put back together and hope for the best for now, but if they act up again, I would really like to clean those out.
Thank you very much for this walk through! And thanks in advance to any who have an answer for me!
#134
My ABS and TRAC messages used to be intermittent, mostly appearing at engine start when they would appear, only occasionally occurring while driving. Now the warning messages are present from startup to shutdown. I cleaned the rear sensors and I'll do the fronts next but I think my problem may be in the module. I'll check as much wiring as I can to confirm before tearing into it.
The dealer wants $2500 for a new module. Ouch!
It's in a high vibration area, just over the left front wheel and I can imagine the problem being what Oyster suggested about the solder connection inside the module.
The connection was probably degrading for a while due to vibration and now it's failed completely. I hope that it's an easy repair.
The dealer wants $2500 for a new module. Ouch!
It's in a high vibration area, just over the left front wheel and I can imagine the problem being what Oyster suggested about the solder connection inside the module.
The connection was probably degrading for a while due to vibration and now it's failed completely. I hope that it's an easy repair.
#135
nothing wrong with trying to 'degrease' the abs ring and remove buildup back there either. It's safe. With constant contact with the hub, brake dust won't be able to wreak havok like the sensor itself will. Cleanliness is good.
Stu, you can have your module sent off for a rebuild for around $200, well worth it if you don't feel comfortable trying the job yourself. Check out the FAQ thread for links to the module repair instructions. I don't have the rebuilder's name right now, but you'll get a name and contact number shortly from someone who's been there before...many early xk owners have.
Stu, you can have your module sent off for a rebuild for around $200, well worth it if you don't feel comfortable trying the job yourself. Check out the FAQ thread for links to the module repair instructions. I don't have the rebuilder's name right now, but you'll get a name and contact number shortly from someone who's been there before...many early xk owners have.
#136
#137
ABS module
Hi.
It is not easy, but possible. The hardest part is opening the module. Two options.
1- Open along edges as described in FAQ section.
2- Dremel through lid in lower right corner taking out a square about two by two inches. Warning!!! If you cut too deep you ruin your module. The lid is about 2 to 3 mm thick.
The two soldering points are easily identified. Resolder even if they look OK. The trick is too apply enough heat not only to melt the solder, but also to heat the wires. If not you will get a "dry solder" that will loosen up again. If you heat too much you will ruin the nearby electronic components.
It is worth a try. The alternative is to by a new module.
If you end up buying a new module, be aware there are different types depending on model year.
It is not easy, but possible. The hardest part is opening the module. Two options.
1- Open along edges as described in FAQ section.
2- Dremel through lid in lower right corner taking out a square about two by two inches. Warning!!! If you cut too deep you ruin your module. The lid is about 2 to 3 mm thick.
The two soldering points are easily identified. Resolder even if they look OK. The trick is too apply enough heat not only to melt the solder, but also to heat the wires. If not you will get a "dry solder" that will loosen up again. If you heat too much you will ruin the nearby electronic components.
It is worth a try. The alternative is to by a new module.
If you end up buying a new module, be aware there are different types depending on model year.
#138
#140
As written by Oyster
Not wanting to completely cut the module apart I set it in my drill press used a hole saw 5/8" without a guide drill. was able to put a clean hole right above the solder joint, I was able to preset the depth so it only cut the casing. worst part was fishing the plug out used long needle nose type pliers. I used a small pencil tip soldering iron, repaired the joint and put a black 5/8" plug in with a light coat of silicone, haven't had a problem since. It's very hard to see the repair after being installed. Do seal it back up to keep moisture out.
It is not easy, but possible. The hardest part is opening the module. Two options.
1- Open along edges as described in FAQ section.
2- Dremel through lid in lower right corner taking out a square about two by two inches. Warning!!! If you cut too deep you ruin your module. The lid is about 2 to 3 mm thick.
1- Open along edges as described in FAQ section.
2- Dremel through lid in lower right corner taking out a square about two by two inches. Warning!!! If you cut too deep you ruin your module. The lid is about 2 to 3 mm thick.