How long should it take for the ECU to clear?
#1
How long should it take for the ECU to clear?
Thanks in large part to the help that I received on this forum I was able to bring my 2001 XKR back from the dead. I decided to sell the car to someone who will now continue the work needed to make it nice again. I replaced the fuel pumps, cam sensor, and repaired oil leakage. I then reset the ECU to clear the old fault codes. So far it runs well and no check engine light. The new owner gave me a deposit and has one condition. It has to pass smog test in Reno Nevada. I know it requires that the ECU completes it,s checks before they will allow it to be tested.
My question is , how long should this take and what can or should I do to make this happen? The car is on a non-op, so driving it on the main roads is not really a good idea. But I believe it has to be brought up to temperature before the ecu does it's thing. I can run it around the back roads near my house, but I am wondering how many miles it might need to clear. Any ideas?
Thank you forum members.
Lanny
My question is , how long should this take and what can or should I do to make this happen? The car is on a non-op, so driving it on the main roads is not really a good idea. But I believe it has to be brought up to temperature before the ecu does it's thing. I can run it around the back roads near my house, but I am wondering how many miles it might need to clear. Any ideas?
Thank you forum members.
Lanny
#2
The following users liked this post:
Lanny (07-10-2018)
#4
I'm afraid that PDF looks rather generic - and somewhat wrong (there's no need for coolant below 0C!). But it's a rough guide.
At the least, start with letting it idle for 10 mins from cold (leave it overnight). No need for the heavy electrical load and indeed people often say to switch a/c off but I've not found it matters.
To try to get EVAP to set, you probably need fuel between (say) 30%-80% and a cold soak overnight.
Let us know which exact monitors have not set.
At the least, start with letting it idle for 10 mins from cold (leave it overnight). No need for the heavy electrical load and indeed people often say to switch a/c off but I've not found it matters.
To try to get EVAP to set, you probably need fuel between (say) 30%-80% and a cold soak overnight.
Let us know which exact monitors have not set.
Last edited by JagV8; 07-10-2018 at 03:44 AM.
#5
I'm afraid that PDF looks rather generic - and somewhat wrong (there's no need for coolant below 0C!). But it's a rough guide.
At the least, start with letting it idle for 10 mins from cold (leave it overnight). No need for the heavy electrical load and indeed people often say to switch a/c off but I've not found it matters.
To try to get EVAP to set, you probably need fuel between (say) 30%-80% and a cold soak overnight.
Let us know which exact monitors have not set.
At the least, start with letting it idle for 10 mins from cold (leave it overnight). No need for the heavy electrical load and indeed people often say to switch a/c off but I've not found it matters.
To try to get EVAP to set, you probably need fuel between (say) 30%-80% and a cold soak overnight.
Let us know which exact monitors have not set.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Whatever it means it has now passed twice over a year apart. runs like a swiss watch. it did not pass smog for a long while, like months of driving it around, after the shop i took it too put 600 miles on it and it still did not pass...the battery, and every day use populated the memories...and yes, i will not disconnect the battery or take it for granted.
#10
The other key thing is the tank needs to be half full, you need to avoid hills (to get my car to clear I had to park it at the airport overnight because I lived on a hill). But after months of not clearing the codes, one night at the airport and a drive home and I was good. (Fortunately I travel a lot so parking it at the airport wasn't a problem). Just drive slow so you don't slosh around the gas and it should reset. Pain in the butt...
#13
This might be worth doing, it goes into some detail (Unfortunately, Comprehensive is not covered): Jaguar Drive Cycle
#14
Most smog areas allow 1 or 2 unset monitors. CARB are prone to be more "awkward".
#15
Hmm, most on my monitors complete in minutes. Comprehensive takes several days (at, say 30 min commute each way, mostly secondary roads).
This might be worth doing, it goes into some detail (Unfortunately, Comprehensive is not covered): Jaguar Drive Cycle
This might be worth doing, it goes into some detail (Unfortunately, Comprehensive is not covered): Jaguar Drive Cycle
#16
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,195 Likes
on
1,360 Posts
#17
#18
Well, all my monitors are checked now except the catalytic converter(s). So far, so good. But I wonder just what it takes to get this last monitor to set. I have a pending code of p1000, which simply means"not all monitors are set". Here in California I would imagine that they require all of them.
Thanks for all the input. Without this forum I would not have a clue.
Thanks for all the input. Without this forum I would not have a clue.
#19
#20
Well, all my monitors are checked now except the catalytic converter(s). So far, so good. But I wonder just what it takes to get this last monitor to set. I have a pending code of p1000, which simply means"not all monitors are set". Here in California I would imagine that they require all of them.
Thanks for all the input. Without this forum I would not have a clue.
Thanks for all the input. Without this forum I would not have a clue.