how to maintain power during battery replacement
#1
how to maintain power during battery replacement
I need to replace my battery, and I am wondering if there is a good way to maintain power to the car during the process so that I don't have to worry about resetting the radio code and any other electronics that might be affected. I got a radio code from the dealer, but don't want to find out it was the wrong one.
Has anyone done this?
Has anyone done this?
#2
#3
I need to replace my battery, and I am wondering if there is a good way to maintain power to the car during the process so that I don't have to worry about resetting the radio code and any other electronics that might be affected. I got a radio code from the dealer, but don't want to find out it was the wrong one.
Has anyone done this?
Has anyone done this?
#4
#5
You have to enter the radio code and run both windows fully down, then fully up. There's no more to it than that. Messing with jump starters and power packs is worth neither the effort nor the potential to short out the positive while you're reaching in to pull the battery.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I need to replace my battery, and I am wondering if there is a good way to maintain power to the car during the process so that I don't have to worry about resetting the radio code and any other electronics that might be affected. I got a radio code from the dealer, but don't want to find out it was the wrong one.
Best of luck. Keep us posted.
#10
#12
#13
An old "dumb"charger would work but a more modern "smart"charger would shut off as soon as the battery was disconnected unless it has a supply mode.
The following users liked this post:
Ungn (05-25-2016)
#14
I was the original "Powerwheels Modification Guru" from 15 years ago:
My garage is full of Boxes of dumb 12V wall transformer chargers.
#15
I would not use a Battery Charger to maintain the voltage when removing the Battery,
Older chargers can put out a very unfiltered rectified AC waveform with a High Peak Voltage that could damage Electronic Modules.
When the Battery is in the circuit, it will absorb the peaks and keep the voltage from rising to a damaging level.
Older chargers can put out a very unfiltered rectified AC waveform with a High Peak Voltage that could damage Electronic Modules.
When the Battery is in the circuit, it will absorb the peaks and keep the voltage from rising to a damaging level.
#16
From memory, I seem to recall reading about cigar lighter-type devices that would plug in and maintain some voltage during battery swaps. Worked with a 9V battery, I believe. Maybe a search under "battery saver" will give you hits. Never used one myself. The alternative is to call a shop that does batteries and ask what they use.
Best of luck. Keep us posted.
Best of luck. Keep us posted.
#17
Get used to it. If you plan on working on the electrics it's almost always safer to disconnect the battery first.
Graham
#19
Battery change was successful...and a good thing because the vent tube had come off the old battery. New battery has a lot more amps that the old Varta (it was rated at 680).
I went a head and ran jumper cables to the hot post on the fuse box over the left front wheel and grounded to a shock mount bolt. Worked like a dream. Changed the battery and all settings stayed good.
I went a head and ran jumper cables to the hot post on the fuse box over the left front wheel and grounded to a shock mount bolt. Worked like a dream. Changed the battery and all settings stayed good.
#20
ungn - maybe different for non-UK cars, but on my 1997 XK8, the boot (trunk) lock works no problem.
Might be worth double-checking yours not blocked up or something.
Not trying to be clever or facetious, but it's not really likely that Jaguar fitted a keyhole with a blank sheet of metal behind it.