I would love to come see what you are doing since I may have to do this someday. Could even lend a hand if you want.

I just finished installing the pressure relief stuff on my pump. If you have not done that you should definitely do it to lessen the load on all your new lines.

Let me know if you want some company while you work thru it.

 

if upgrading to the Top Hydraulic or Cabriolet Hydraulics hoses - is the pressure relief even necessary as the factory system put out a peak pressure of 1500-1600psi with a factory hose rating of 3000 psi. The reduction system takes the pressure from 1600 to 1000 yet the hoses from CH and TH have burst ratings of 12000psi to 23000psi respectively. just curious

 

I think it is still necessary. The valves and cylinders will have a longer life if pressures are lower. Hoses are only a part of the potential failure points in the system.

Some experts should weigh in on this.

I admit I am only a few weeks into owning an XK8. However the pump pressure relief was one of the first things I did.

 

Yeah - hopefully Gus or Steve (White XKR) will weigh in - I can see it to a point but in reading all the previous threads, thought the intent of the pressure relief was primarily to reduce the stresses on the hoses which were the common fail point.

 

I think you are correct about primary reason for pressure reduction.

I consider it cheap insurance against a leaky latch valve ruining my interior. It my still happen but at least I did everything I could to prevent it.

 

I am going to replace the latch hoses as well. Should I put the top down to replace the hoses using the hydraulics or manually? I am worried about putting the top down manually without causing any damage, how difficult is it to put the top down manually?

 

I did not read it all in detail but you must remember that latch seals will blow out because of the high pressure. I would still add the regulator valve if anything to keep me from pulling the car apart again because of another leak.

Sorry I did not see this post until now.

 

here is the link to Gus's website - manual ops section. If you click on the Home link (upper left), then locate the XK8/XKR section - there are procedures with some great pics on replacing the latch hoses

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Gus - appreciate the insight into the additional fail point in the latch seals - makes sense.

 

Started the process of replacing the latch hoses today. I got as far as removing the driver’s seat, the kick panel, the A pillar cover, overhead console, visors, and roof lining. It was an understatement about how difficult it is to remover the driver’s side kick panel. Must have been difficult for the Dealership back in 2007, because the kick panel was already cracked in multiple places. Also interesting with the workmanship at the dealer are the following
- Found several rags left in the body near the driver’s side lift cylinder
- Multiple bolts and screws missing, most importantly the bolt that holds the pump cylinder tray in place, excessive vibration contributing to the hose rupture?
- The latch hose was sticking out of the roof and down the windshield

One thing concerned me, is it OK to start and move the car at different points in the dis-assembly/re-assembly process?

 

Everything I have read so far cautions against having seat disconnected while battery is connected. The idea being to remove any possibility of air bag deploying.

I don't see any issues with moving the car once seat is connected. Assuming you have all the hydraulics connected or have the pump unplugged.

 

Thanks! I did make sure to re-connect the seat before moving the car and the hydraulic pump is off turned all the way counter clockwise.

Does anybody know a place to buy a new kick panel?

 

What color do you need (see the trim color code on the door jamb)? Here is one in AGD (oatmeal) on ebay: Jaguar XK8 Lower Dash Dashboard Steering Wheel Column Cover AGD Trim | eBay

 

The trim says "SDZ", what's odd is it says the paint is "Red" but the car is black uhn?

 

The kick panel comes off and goes back on quite easily, in spite of its reputation... See post no. 11 and the pictures behind the link. The trick is to free the lower back corner first.

Jouko

 

My top wasn't working right when I first got it took it to a guy and all the person who had it before me, put the two hoses in the trunk in the wrong place, worked perfectly ever since. Just throwing it out there as something to check on a new purchase.

 

The saga continues, finally had time to connect the latch hoses. When the lines reached the latch assembly at the roof there was quite a bit of slack, I had to even out the slack all the way back to the pump.

I have had to rise and lower the roof manually several times (as has been instructed in this forum) hopefully that does not cause any issues.

A couple of questions, if anyone would be so kind to answer.

- Do the lines that come from the latch connectors come straight out the sides of the assembly and down the “A” frame? This looks to be tight fit as they come out the side of the latch assembly.

- My hoses for the latch connectors had labels that said latch bottom and latch shaft. The first connector on the left was slightly lower than the one on the right so I connected that one with the hose that said “bottom”. Is that correct?

- When is it appropriate to test the system? Can I test with just the seat and the latch assembly re-connected and the rest of the interior still out? The pump will be filled with new hydraulic fluid.

 

Opening and closing the roof manually is not a problem. The hoses from the latch go over to the “A” pillar and go down to the floor it is a little tight but with a little patience it can be done. The roof system is a push push system so the hoses must be connected correctly at both ends. Yes the system can be tested but be sure all electrical connections are connected and that means the seat. This car does not like to operate with electrical connections undone.

You can find all the information on the roof, hose replacements and connections on my page.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Epilogue - Completed the last of the work on replacing all the convertible top hydraulic hoses on my Jaguar 2000 XK8 convertible last weekend. The top is working and the car complete again. The entire process was quite gratifying after finalizing the saga. I had to re-upholster the overhead console and the A-pillar covers due to the fabric and foam backing crumbling and detaching from the fiberglass. I was surprised to find headliner fabric at a local fabric store and used 3M Fabric Adhesive that work incredibly well. In addition, I was able to locate a new kick panel to replace the one cracked by the Crown Jaguar dealership here in Tampa/St. Petersburg and replace screws that they failed to re-install. The cost to do the work myself, approximately $700, the estimated cost by the dealership for replacing all the lines over $3500.

The point that I want to emphatically emphasize is that without the incredible generosity and expertise of the members of this forum such a successful feat would have not been possible. Therefore, to everyone, a very gracious” THANK YOU!!!!”

 

Congrats on the successful DIY.

Any pics along the way?